My S50 swap into 318i

[RoadHazard]

Hey Stany, do you have any more pics?

[RoadHazard]

Finally finished rearranging engine wiring. What another PITA. Now on to some pics as promised.


Oil cooler and pipes






Heater matrix




Engine plug and wiring






Diff




Carbon canister plug fitted with BMW 1k resister




And lastly Renault Clio brake booster with 25mm E32 master cylinder. I moved the setup 6cm to the right which may be a little too far. One of the brake pipes is rubbing on the strut tower as you can see.

[RoadHazard]

I accidentally dislodged the water drain pipe and now I'm having a hard time putting it back.

Any idea?

[RoadHazard]

So nobody have any idea on the water drain pipe?

More updates

- Fitted the dip stick tube and oil drain
- Rerouted brake pipes so the E32 master cylinder works with my non-ABS car
- Rearranged engine wiring a little bit to make it neater
- Fitted the intake plenum and MAF

A few pics

Brake pipes and E32 master cylinder






As of the end of today

[E30BeemerLad]

Water drain pipe (elephant trunk) is a PITA to fit back on. Drop it in some hot water to soften it up a bit, then it is a case of pushing it on and rotate it 90 degress, see if that helps

[Stany]

Hey Stany, do you have any more pics?

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 22&start=0

[RoadHazard]

Water drain pipe (elephant trunk) is a PITA to fit back on. Drop it in some hot water to soften it up a bit, then it is a case of pushing it on and rotate it 90 degress, see if that helps

Thanks man. I'll give it a try!

[RoadHazard]

Hey Stany, do you have any more pics?

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... 22&start=0

Nice car!

[Stany]

Nice car!

Thanks

[kerrym]

good work, have you got a wire diagram for the ews installation you could pm me with?

[RoadHazard]

My engine doesn't have EWS sorry.

[kerrym]

bugger , do you know any one with one?. loving the car by the way

[RoadHazard]

Slow progress. Just got a chance to install battery in the boot.


Battery installed




Tried the cover on but is not locked down until carpet is put back in




Battery post in the engine bay





And finally this piece. Does anyone know where this goes? It came with the package but have no idea where to put it.





This pic is at the end of day. I'm still not sure what I have to do with the throttle cable. I fit it temporarily as shown.

[RoadHazard]

bugger , do you know any one with one?. loving the car by the way

Quite a few people have EWS wired. Anyway, Ian should be the person to talk to about this matter. His username is ian332isport.

You can try posting your question in the forum and I'm sure someone will come to help you out.

BTW, thanks for your compliment.

[RoadHazard]

A good news for me. The car started yesterday! First it didn't want to start because the spark plug holes were wet. After cleaned up then the engine fired. I'm very happy now.
It was loud and lumpy because I ran open header without lamba probes connected. Not sure if I have some bad plugs or not but I plan to change them out later on anyway. Once the prop shaft goes on then I'll mount the exhaust and I'll take a video of the engine running.

I also mounted the LSD yesterday. It went on more smoothly than I thought.

Now I still have a few things to sort.
- I'm still not happy about the shifter linkage (now using the E36 M3 one). May have to try a different one to see what fits.
- The throttle cable. I'm using RHD E36 M3 cable. I heard it needed to be shorten. Is this something I can do myself?

[blue30]

And finally this piece. Does anyone know where this goes? It came with the package but have no idea where to put it.

I think that bit goes under the side carpet, and provides a bit more of a barrier around the metal near the positive side of the battery.

Nice work!

[RoadHazard]

Time for some updates.

- Fitted the throttle cable using some kind of cable lock hardware.
- Fitted a spacer between the master cylinder and servo. Now brake works fine.


Test drove the car this weekend. It was loud. A little too loud for my liking. But that will be fixed later on.

Next steps
- I'm still waiting for a coolant hose to come in from Germany. Then I can put the header tank at the correct position.
- Found an oil leak around the exhaust side of the engine. It's from the constant pressure valve. It's probably just the o-ring going bad. I ordered a new one anyway. Got to wait another 2 more weeks for it to arrive.
- And the last thing I need an air filter box. Can't find one locally yet. I don't want to use a cone filter.

I have a video clip but for some reason it has no sound. I'll post it when I can fix the sound problem.

[jmc330i]

- Found an oil leak around the exhaust side of the engine. It's from the constant pressure valve. It's probably just the o-ring going bad. I ordered a new one anyway. Got to wait another 2 more weeks for it to arrive.

How close to your No.6 primary pipe is the constant pressure valve? I just about managed to change the valve, but I had to undo the manifold and pull it over as far as I could - it still didnt leave much room though and was a complete arse to do

If its at all tight for clearance I would advise taking the rear section of manifold off completely so you dont have to struggle. Or change the valve before fitting the engine, but I realise that advice may be a little late

[RoadHazard]

It's very tight indeed. I could only snap pictures but not sure if there's any room for working with tools.



Here's the clearance.





BTW, what tool do I use to remove the valve?

[jmc330i]

I had to do it from underneath as there was no way past the No.6 pipe from above. Even with the manifold pulled over as far as it would go, I could only just get my hand in there.

You can get screwdriver bits that fit on to ratchets, but it needs to have a wide enough blade for the slot in the valve. I couldnt find one locally, so I used a screwdriver bit from an impact driver with a small 1/4" drive ratchet, this did mean I needed to use an 8mm socket (impact drives are 8mm) and I did have to cut the impact bit down other wise it was too long to work in the space I had - thats why I suggest removing the manifolds completely, as you can then use a decent sized ratchet and both hands.




Dont forget to drain the oil unless you want it all over the place when you remove the valve.

[RoadHazard]

Cheers james. Thanks for info.

Do you have torque spec on the valve?

And that's a bad news about draining oil. I just filled it with Mobil1 full synthetic not so long ago.

[UweM3]

Cheers james. Thanks for info.

Do you have torque spec on the valve?

And that's a bad news about draining oil. I just filled it with Mobil1 full synthetic not so long ago.

catch it i a clean container and fill it back in?

[DanThe]

Why would you drain the oil from the sump

[RoadHazard]

What do you suggest, Dan?

[jmc330i]

You dont need to drain the oil, but if you dont a fair amount will come out when you remove the valve - thinking about it, it may just be oil thats kept up by the valve, so it wouldnt make any difference if you drained it or not.

Just be prepared for it to run out - it did make a fair mess on mine, so have the new valve handy and be quick enough getting it in.

[beardymat]

Carbon canister plug fitted with BMW 1k resister

I dont think my engine has one of these fitted, what does it achieve and do you have a part no. for it. Cheers.

[RoadHazard]

The resistor fools the ECU so it thinks that the carbon canister is still intact. It won't hurt performance to leave that unplugged but the ECU will throw a code.

No 8 in this page

[DanThe]

As above Matt it just stops a fault code, the code is not a problem though and wont cause any problems, I just cut this plug/wiring out of the looms now

[beardymat]

cool, fault codes dont worry me as there isnt an engine warning light on the e30

If you have any other tips on thinning the engine loom Dan then fire away.

Im thinking of copying your exhaust Roadhazard as it looks neat and since its mostly oem inspired it should produce stock or close to stock power, any more info on what was modified would be gratefully received, particularly around the manifold.

[RoadHazard]

I can't vouch for the power yet until I get the car on dyno. However if you go with aftermarket, I don't think you would lose power either. But it won't be as quiet.

Well to think about it, a lot of parts on the exhaust had to be fabricated. May be the way I presented it was misleading. The manifold was built from scratch by the exhaust shop such that no modification on either the chassis or subframe is needed.

[beardymat]

im not too worried about modding the subframe as theyre ten a penny over here and cutting and welding happens to be a speciality of mine, im not too keen on moddifying the bodyshell too much so will mod the manifold but since im going into an M3 (LHD) i only need to change no.6 header to clear the bulkhead and i have a plan for that.

[RoadHazard]

Time for more updates.


- Fitted a new car loom. Took me a while to figure out what is what. I Added wires for active check control panel and power windows.

- I got no start after replacing the loom. Turned out the fuel pump fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and the problem is gone.

- Finally got around to fix the oil leak at the constant pressure valve. I didn't drain the oil. Only a small amount of oil dripped out so all was good. I was lucky there was a room just enough to fit the tool to work on the valve. Still keeping my eyes on it for a few days.



Now on to problem that I had.

My car has 2 fuel pumps. I tried removing the external one after I have replaced the intake one with Walbro 255 lph. But seems like using only the internal one is not enough. So I reinstalled the external pump and now the engine runs fine.

It puzzles me why the Walbro 255 is not enough. Any thoughts on this?

[RoadHazard]

I didn't update this thread for ages.


I finally bought an M3 air box. It's very tight but should fit ok. The mounting tab for the M40 box had to be removed and a new one was fabricated. Sorry no pics yet.

As of right now the car is at the body shop to fix a few scratches I made during the swap. After that I'm going to take it to an AC shop.

[toby]

Someone asked a similar question about fuel pumps recently. If I find the thread I will add a link.

Good luck with the continuation.

[RoadHazard]

Ok pics of the air box.






Here is from another angle. Notice the new mounting tab.





Now I'm afraid that it will not clear the bonnet. But I'll find a way to fix that later if it becomes a problem.


Another thing that bothers me right now is that the throttle cable is kinda sticky. It's hard to push the pedal at the beginning during the take-off. But if you push too hard, the car will jump. And it doesn't return as fast as I'd like either.