M40 to M42 swap - engine loom question

Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:24 pm

Hi, wondered if you could help me please

For my 318 E30 m40 to M42 (from a e30 318is) engine swap, do i need the part of the loom that goes from the fuze box straight through the bulkhead into the car cabin?

Or can i simply fit my loom straight into the bottom of the M42 fuze box?

thanks, help most appreciated

Jim

Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:07 pm

You only need to change the engine loom. There is a round multipin plug attached to the bulk head in your engine bay which your 318i engine loom should be plugged into. All you have to do is unscrew that plug (which will unplug it) and then screw your M42 engine loom into it and happy days.

It is the plug circled in red here, it normaly hides under a plastic cover:

Mon Jul 18, 2011 9:29 am

thanks mate, really appreciate your help and taking the time to reply, many thanks

Tue Jul 19, 2011 11:36 am

No worries

You'll also need to fit the M42 ECU in place of the M40 one. It's located under the dash to the right of the steering wheel.

Do you have coil packs? (as can be seen between the washer bottle and suspension turret on the right hand side of the engine bay)?

Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:25 pm

Thanks mate, i've got everything i need from a 318IS including all the suspension etc etc

Am note sure though if my profile gasket needs changing as there is a lot of oil arround the front of the engine. I'll have a look and see where its coming from tomorrow. There is no discolouration of the engine oil so fingers crossed it is ok.

Does anyone know the best way i can undo my crank shaft nut when changing the cam chain now the engine is out the car. ?? The BMW restoration bible says it is torqued to 230 pound foot !!!

Fri Jul 22, 2011 10:29 am

You need a special tool a la:

What you need is a spare PAS crank pulley wheel and a decent lengthed bit of steel bar and weld them together as shown in the picture. You then bolt this to the end of the crank (you need to take the PAS one off first if that wasn't clear

) what this allows you to do is hold the crank in place while you attack the crank bolt.

Appletree came over and helped me with mine, brought some brutal looking 3/4" or 1" drive torque wrench with him which did the trick nicely

Where're you from dude?