M42 Igition timing??
Moderator: martauto
Would any of you M42 owners with an adjustable stroboscope fancy checking the ignition timing @ idle for a fellow m42 owner?
I got :
12deg @ 850 (idle)
18deg @ 1500
22deg @ 2000
34deg @ 2500
43deg @ 3000
44deg @ 3500
I'm checking that I have placed the CPS in the correct place and can't find any spec regarding m42 ignition timing..
I got :
12deg @ 850 (idle)
18deg @ 1500
22deg @ 2000
34deg @ 2500
43deg @ 3000
44deg @ 3500
I'm checking that I have placed the CPS in the correct place and can't find any spec regarding m42 ignition timing..
On the M42 you can´t fit it in the wrong place.
Cos the first M42 I had died a death where the timing idler gear snapped of its mount, after buying another engine and running it to find the timing chain/gear set was warn and rattling I decided rebuild engine.
I had a seized M44 lying about, I figered the M44 is the better engine due to all the know problems of the M42 being ironed out..
So whilst rebuilding I thought why not use the better M44 timing case (idler gear delete + larger capacity oil pump) Only problem is that these no CPS holder on it..
So all I had to do is to remover the CPS bracket of the Knackered M42 timing case, make a jig to hold it in the position I wanted it and have some a.c tig weld it on...
It looked 100% eyed up but the ultimate test is a dynamic one..
With an adjustable Stroboscope with build it Tacho I was able to find out the different degrees of advance @ different rpm's :
12deg @ 850 (idle)
18deg @ 1500
22deg @ 2000
34deg @ 2500
43deg @ 3000
44deg @ 3500
Yes I only need the idle timing but thought whilst I was there might aswell test @ different rpm's
My problem is that due to the timing not being changeable there is no timing spec in a manual, all I need is another M42 to do the same stroboscope test..
So if anyone is out there with a running M42, an adjustable strobe with built in tacho and the ability to mark TDC on #1 cylinder then we can find out if I have f#*ked up or not?!
I had a seized M44 lying about, I figered the M44 is the better engine due to all the know problems of the M42 being ironed out..
So whilst rebuilding I thought why not use the better M44 timing case (idler gear delete + larger capacity oil pump) Only problem is that these no CPS holder on it..
So all I had to do is to remover the CPS bracket of the Knackered M42 timing case, make a jig to hold it in the position I wanted it and have some a.c tig weld it on...
It looked 100% eyed up but the ultimate test is a dynamic one..
With an adjustable Stroboscope with build it Tacho I was able to find out the different degrees of advance @ different rpm's :
12deg @ 850 (idle)
18deg @ 1500
22deg @ 2000
34deg @ 2500
43deg @ 3000
44deg @ 3500
Yes I only need the idle timing but thought whilst I was there might aswell test @ different rpm's
My problem is that due to the timing not being changeable there is no timing spec in a manual, all I need is another M42 to do the same stroboscope test..
So if anyone is out there with a running M42, an adjustable strobe with built in tacho and the ability to mark TDC on #1 cylinder then we can find out if I have f#*ked up or not?!
Hey, that would be cool NoTurbo if possible, the engine is finished and back in (I used the M42 head) its been running warmed up and for a very light smoke up the road and back as its only used in summer, all I have to do is the timing check the get the front wheel alignment set as whilst the engine was out I took the opportunity to do a clubsport steering rack upgrade ETC... Cheers DanThe!
Anyways now I have nearly got the hang of uploading photos I will.. rather than opening a new post will just stay with this one!!
O and if Wally has tuned in thanks alot for the M20 flywheel etc . did a really good job and I didn't have to muck about with the starter bendix etc!
TBC
Anyways now I have nearly got the hang of uploading photos I will.. rather than opening a new post will just stay with this one!!
O and if Wally has tuned in thanks alot for the M20 flywheel etc . did a really good job and I didn't have to muck about with the starter bendix etc!
TBC
AFTER TRIP OVER HARTSIDE
CAR RESTORED READY TO PULL ENGINE RATTLE OVER 2K
WORN GEARS
MUCKY BITS
CLUBSPORT RACK ETC
HEAD SKIMMED VALVES LAPPED
NEW GEARS
READY FOR DROP
WAITING FOR FRONT SEAL
M20 FLY/ M42 RING GEAR
M20 320 CLUTCH
FINAL STAGE THROTTLE BODY DELETE ETC
-
rix313
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 4948
- Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Silverstone
- Contact:
That looks slick man nice one 
Looking at your rack pipes they're the DanThe pipes? I couldn't get mine to fit around the engine mount are have you not had a problem? A photo of how it routes and attaches to the pump would be appreciated any issues with the steering linkage as well with the exhaust manifold? I've got a Corsa one I've cobbled together.
Looking at your rack pipes they're the DanThe pipes? I couldn't get mine to fit around the engine mount are have you not had a problem? A photo of how it routes and attaches to the pump would be appreciated
any issues with the steering linkage as well with the exhaust manifold? I've got a Corsa one I've cobbled together.Cheers rix313..
Yeah correct, I got the lot from DanThe rack, pipes, and steering shaft.
Yeah I too had problems fitting it, was like an intelligence test, consequently took me a while! however DanThe was quick to answer my question and help me get it sorted. Cheers DanThe 
Problems firstly were mounting the rack, I found when I was mocking it all up that the back two holes in the subframe didn't require any drilling and held the rack closer in looking like how it should be.. WRONG! much to my frustration after fitting the engine to find the exhaust manifold clearance to steering shaft U.J touching.. Easy enough to fix buy pulling the bolts out moving the rack to the front holes. I just knipped one bolt up then ran a drill through the other..
The pipes were my first puzzle for me, You need the engine and P.S.P fitted into position with Vbelt tensioned to do the final high pressure connection. The thing that I found weird is that one connection needs bending to make fit (maybe cos its a universal pipe?) all other bends are spot on. This also means that the Pclip is fitted when it was all connected, I used a angle drill from underneath.
The other thing that I spent ages trying todo was to use the oem steering shaft, I chopped it down to the max about then bolted it back together, no where near enough adjustment.. the steering shaft and e34/e30 U.J's again of DanThe is are boyo's, made sure the splines were well cleaned and greased for loads of adjustment..
Just got to take it for a spin!
Will attaché some more photos of rack.
Happy Xmas!
Yeah correct, I got the lot from DanThe rack, pipes, and steering shaft.
Yeah I too had problems fitting it, was like an intelligence test, consequently took me a while!
however DanThe was quick to answer my question and help me get it sorted. Cheers DanThe Problems firstly were mounting the rack, I found when I was mocking it all up that the back two holes in the subframe didn't require any drilling and held the rack closer in looking like how it should be.. WRONG! much to my frustration after fitting the engine to find the exhaust manifold clearance to steering shaft U.J touching.. Easy enough to fix buy pulling the bolts out moving the rack to the front holes. I just knipped one bolt up then ran a drill through the other..
The pipes were my first puzzle for me, You need the engine and P.S.P fitted into position with Vbelt tensioned to do the final high pressure connection. The thing that I found weird is that one connection needs bending to make fit (maybe cos its a universal pipe?) all other bends are spot on. This also means that the Pclip is fitted when it was all connected, I used a angle drill from underneath.
The other thing that I spent ages trying todo was to use the oem steering shaft, I chopped it down to the max about then bolted it back together, no where near enough adjustment.. the steering shaft and e34/e30 U.J's again of DanThe is are boyo's, made sure the splines were well cleaned and greased for loads of adjustment..
Just got to take it for a spin!
Will attaché some more photos of rack.
Happy Xmas!
FIRST TWO PHOTOS ARE BEFORE HIGHT PRESSURE PIPE WAS BENT 3RD IS BENT AS BEST I COULD, RUBBER HOSE BEND IS A LITTLE TIGHT BUT OK. I STRAINED TO FIT IT, KNIPPED UP THE BANJO WITH SEALS ON THEN BACKED OF A QUARTER THEN BENT BUY HAND, NO HEAT... THEN RE-KNIPPED..
-
rix313
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 4948
- Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Silverstone
- Contact:
Cool man cheers for that. I had my rack on the front holes and moved it back to the standard ones after seeing your first photo's. I'm not sure whether the Corsa linkage will give it enough space to work there, if not I'll move it forward. I was planning on putting a sort of 'bus stop' bend in the high pressure pipe for it to go around the mount. Did you just use a normal pipe benders?
Hi pal, I finally got round to checking this. I think my timing chain has stretched as it was hard to get a clean reading.
I am using a snap on digital strobe and counting the number and position of teeth on the flywheel. I get 24deg at 850 idle but then can not get a reading past that as the advance becomes quite steep.
Is there a better way to check it for you?
I am using a snap on digital strobe and counting the number and position of teeth on the flywheel. I get 24deg at 850 idle but then can not get a reading past that as the advance becomes quite steep.
Is there a better way to check it for you?
Old post I know but due to the weather getting better I'm thinking about getting the E30 out.
Cheers for checking NoTurbo..
If the strobe is erratic its probably interference on the strobes pick-up, make sure all other HT leads are away from it and the lock is properly locked!
Mark with tip-ex on the front pulley and timing cover after the timing pin has been engaged into the flywheel through hole in the block. Then check ignition timing with strobe.
according to that test we are miles out! I have 12deg @ idle
Cheers for checking NoTurbo..
If the strobe is erratic its probably interference on the strobes pick-up, make sure all other HT leads are away from it and the lock is properly locked!
Mark with tip-ex on the front pulley and timing cover after the timing pin has been engaged into the flywheel through hole in the block. Then check ignition timing with strobe.
according to that test we are miles out! I have 12deg @ idle