Hi, I need help to diagnose why my engine will not start. It has been working fine until yesterday when it refuses to fire up. Prior to the engine refusing to fire up, the engine used to fire up and when it got up to temp it would then stall and die, It would refuse to restart again, I would have to leave for a bit it, then it will fire up again without an issue.
I changed the following:
1) Crank Sensor
2) Camshaft sensor
3) Fuel Pump & Filter
After changing the above the engine fired up and run fine, but from yesterday it is now refusing to fire up. I checked the fuel, the fuel is coming through as the plugs are wet. I then tried to see if the plugs are sending the spark and there i no spark on the plugs.
I did the M52B28 conversion 2 years ago and it been working fine until recently. Have stock ECU with EWS wired as detailed in this forum,
Can anyone advise what could be causing this issue?
Engine Cranking but not starting
Moderator: martauto
I have been trying to fault find this issue, it seems to be happening intermittently after fiddling with the engine loom, engine fires up, then when I leave it overnight it wont start again,.
Has anyone experienced this? I can do with some help to fault find what looks like to be an electrical issue
Has anyone experienced this? I can do with some help to fault find what looks like to be an electrical issue
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fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
There is good advice in the Wiki if you follow it methodically you should get to the fault.
Where do you wiggle the loom for the symptom to change that would be a good start.
Popular intermittent causes are the DME and Fuel pump relays they get dry solder joints inside that get a high resistance as it gets hotter, also on M20 the round connecter under the inlet manifold gets corroded and affects the temperature signal sent to the DME causing incorrect fuelling.
Where do you wiggle the loom for the symptom to change that would be a good start.
Popular intermittent causes are the DME and Fuel pump relays they get dry solder joints inside that get a high resistance as it gets hotter, also on M20 the round connecter under the inlet manifold gets corroded and affects the temperature signal sent to the DME causing incorrect fuelling.
Hi fixedwheelnut,
Thank you for your feedback, I have checked most of what you have detailed and still no joy. I have noticed that the car is fitted with a factory car alarm its been in the car ever since I owned it but never used it as do have the key fob to arm/disarm the unit. I am wondering if this could have developed a issue and be causing the issue. I would like to remove it from the car as I can see it is wired into the fuse box. below the unit that is in my car.
Would anyone know how to remove this completely?
Thank you for your feedback, I have checked most of what you have detailed and still no joy. I have noticed that the car is fitted with a factory car alarm its been in the car ever since I owned it but never used it as do have the key fob to arm/disarm the unit. I am wondering if this could have developed a issue and be causing the issue. I would like to remove it from the car as I can see it is wired into the fuse box. below the unit that is in my car.
Would anyone know how to remove this completely?
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TriggerFish
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 507
- Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:00 pm
- Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
That looks very very similar to the unit I had on mine (from the dealer). I think there was a connection to one of these relays. Once I bypassed that, the alarm system was defeated. It might be worth checking those to see if yours is wired in a similar way (although you say the plugs are wet, so likely not the fuel plug relay...)
When I removed mine, it was a case of finding each factory wire it connected to, and reconnecting them. Mostly, it'd be one factory wire cut in half with the alarm wired in series. I think only one cable pair (the ones to the relay, which I think were purple?) impacted the starting - the rest were for power, or flashing the indicators etc. That said, it's been about 7 years since I removed it, so my memory is hazy...
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Relays (Either the main, or fuel pump)
When I removed mine, it was a case of finding each factory wire it connected to, and reconnecting them. Mostly, it'd be one factory wire cut in half with the alarm wired in series. I think only one cable pair (the ones to the relay, which I think were purple?) impacted the starting - the rest were for power, or flashing the indicators etc. That said, it's been about 7 years since I removed it, so my memory is hazy...
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Relays (Either the main, or fuel pump)
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fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
The two top left wires are the immobiliser cut [yellow/ black and Purple/black] trace them back, probably behind the glovebox.Ch4ni wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 11:30 amHi fixedwheelnut,
Thank you for your feedback, I have checked most of what you have detailed and still no joy. I have noticed that the car is fitted with a factory car alarm its been in the car ever since I owned it but never used it as do have the key fob to arm/disarm the unit. I am wondering if this could have developed a issue and be causing the issue. I would like to remove it from the car as I can see it is wired into the fuse box. below the unit that is in my car.
Would anyone know how to remove this completely?
Update: I have managed to fix the issue, it turned out to be the transponder in my key was intermittently making contact with the magnetic ring, this was causing the engine not to start. I reposition the transponder in key so that it can be picked up by the magnetic ring and all is working working fine now.
I guess the plus side is I now know my EWS is working as expected and a great addition to not having one at all.
I am still looking to remove the alarm unit. I traced the yellow/black wire, this seems to be connected to fuse 11 (Fuel Pump). I will keep investigating this and will eventually remove once I have traced all the wires.
I guess the plus side is I now know my EWS is working as expected and a great addition to not having one at all.
I am still looking to remove the alarm unit. I traced the yellow/black wire, this seems to be connected to fuse 11 (Fuel Pump). I will keep investigating this and will eventually remove once I have traced all the wires.
