M50 sump gasket change on an e30. How hard is it?

Sat Sep 05, 2015 11:47 pm

Hi fellas,

Looking to change the sump gasket on the old m50 and trying to see from your experienses how big of a job is it?!

I'm thinking to lift the engine few inches and remove the sump
Also what gasket is the best and what else to use to seal it properly

Thanks

Sun Sep 06, 2015 9:22 am

I reckon it'll be a pig with the subframe in place

Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:52 am

It's doable but a right pain.
You will need to undo the engine mounts and raise the engine as much as 'safely' possible. Checking exhaust, coolant p/s hoses and wiring to make sure you don't create more work for yourself.
Undo the steering U/J, undo the rear wishbone mounts.
Support engine with a crane, bar across the engine bay or jack under transmission.

Undo two diagonally opposite subframe bolts and wind them back in enough so that you are comfortable with them supporting the weight of the subframe, rack, wishbones etc...
Unscrew the other two until the subframe is supported and as low as possible.

Then the fun starts, undo all the bolts, I had to drill the heads off the rear long bolts that are right next to the flywheel, as the person that had originally done the conversion had just ground back one side of the bolt head. I replaced these with hex head bolts so I could install/remove them easily.

Once the oil pan is free it won't come past the oil pick up, so order a new gasket and bolts (cheap from the dealers).

Undo the oil pick up and put it down in the sump, then you should be able to remove it all.

Hope this helps as JoshH is right, it is a pig of a job

Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:09 am

as above, but if you don't have an engine lift you'll need an engine support beam

one of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/prod ... -020112912, then loosen off the engine mount bolts but leave the bolts on a few threads.

although you can get them off ebay for about £40.

RE; the subframe, i found a little trick that wored for me was to use 4 lengths of threaded bar with some large (3") washers & nuts, remove 1 subframe bolt & replace it with the threaded bar, then do the same with the rest of the subframe bolts, then you can slowly wind down the nuts & washers to lower the subfrome down enought to give you some more room to work.

it also makes lining up the subframe a lot easier for you.

Mon Sep 07, 2015 10:01 am

Don't fck about, support the engine from above and remove the whole subframe/steering
Id get the sump cleaned out properly while its off and rebuild the oil pump, steering rack swap if not done already etc etc

Mon Sep 07, 2015 10:07 am

^^^ what he said ^^^ messing about takes longer than doing it properly! Don't cut corners man, ain't worth it

Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:53 pm

This was the way I've put the engine in (removed the subframe, lift the car, change the engine and put the car back down) but now the ramp doesn't work.

I'll support the engine and remove the subframe.

Thanks for the advice guys!

Any sump gasket will do? Or should I buy something better? Any gasket adhesive or something like that to be added?

Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:07 pm

DanThe wrote:Don't fck about, support the engine from above and remove the whole subframe/steering
Id get the sump cleaned out properly while its off and rebuild the oil pump, steering rack swap if not done already etc etc

Off topic
Dan, I still didn't fix that twin fan...I have 3 radiator switch sensors, none working on low speed just the high speed.
One bmw and the other 2 are aftermarket
I tested them and there is no resistance on low speed connectors...are they so sensible to fail quick or it's just my luck?!
Thanks

Mon Sep 07, 2015 10:28 pm

Ive never known one that has stopped working mate

Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:03 am

StefanAnghel wrote:
DanThe wrote:Don't fck about, support the engine from above and remove the whole subframe/steering
Id get the sump cleaned out properly while its off and rebuild the oil pump, steering rack swap if not done already etc etc
Off topic
Dan, I still didn't fix that twin fan...I have 3 radiator switch sensors, none working on low speed just the high speed.
One bmw and the other 2 are aftermarket
I tested them and there is no resistance on low speed connectors...are they so sensible to fail quick or it's just my luck?!
Thanks

Check the low speed fuse. I think the standard E30 auxiliary fan low speed fuse is specified as 7.5A. Using an E36 fan (which goes through a single 20A fuse for both speeds iirc), I was wondering why it only ever worked on high speed. It was actually blowing the 7.5A fuse every time it tried to run at low speed! Swapped out for a 20A fuse (after checking wiring diagrams for wire diameters, components etc to make sure it wouldn't hurt anything) and it's run fine since.

Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:16 am

Motorhole wrote:
Check the low speed fuse. I think the standard E30 auxiliary fan low speed fuse is specified as 7.5A.

This is fuse 3 on an E30, and is specified as 15A as standard. I would expect a 7.5A fuse to blow regularly with either an E30 or E36 fan, as a result of fatigue from the start up surge.

Tue Sep 08, 2015 11:26 pm

Fuse 3 it's fine, and the fan works fine on low speed if I connect it "manually" by bridging a wire in 2 of the 3 pins connector that normally goes into the radiator sensor switch.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:51 pm

Back on topic.... The sump it's off... Big all engine support beam holding the engine from above... Few axle stands underneath
Removed calipers,top mounts , lollipops nuts, uj joints and the front subframe... A lot easier and plenty of space

I've cleaned the sump and i'm ready to put everything back... But searching the internet about the oil pump i've heard some stories about this famous nut coming off and want to hear your opinion about it.

Also if the oil pump refurbish it's essential (how to do it?!)

Thanks