clio servo spacer not required?

[jimmymig]

Just fitted my clio servo and the rod inside was adjustable.there was at least 20mm of adjustment the domed end has a7mm hex below witch screws out off a shaft.I have managed too adjust mine too much.Anybody done it like this much easyer than trimming bits off bar

[E30BeemerLad]

For some reason, I had to shorten the rod in my clio servo, so I have no spacer either

[e30-EVN]

This must be a year thing on the clio servo's, I used 1 on mine and had to use a spacer of around 20mm... If you have done it that way that's great, saves you cutting a spacer mate

[Danny-C]

HI buddy ive got a golf servo currently and am looking to change to a clio and was wondering what year and model did u get yours from would make it a lot easier for me if i can go down the same road as u many thanks dan

[DanThe]

Any clio that has plastic wings

[jimmymig]

dont no year bought of ebay for £30 will get part no if that helps

[gudgeon]

I inspected mine the other day in advance of installing. It certainly appears to be adjustable!

p/n 8200 192 616

[magpie]

i put a 15 mm spacer in mine, [ebay jobby £32 posted 06 clio servo]

i have a good pedal but if i need to fine tune it then the spacer is coming out.


good find and i'm surprised this hasn't come to light until now

[staley_turbo]

No spacers on mine.

[gudgeon]

Check these out:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/__f7- ... G_0189.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/__f7- ... G_0190.JPG

On my servo the domed bolt was screwed in almost fully. I've unscrewed it by about 15mm and used blue threadlock so make sure it's secure.

[DanThe]

Good work

[magpie]

+1







now part of rule of thumb

[gudgeon]

There's obviously a special tool for this, I certainly don't condone the use of vice-grips like this for others, but it's my car so whatever. I had about 1/4 inch of thread showing when I got the part off ebay. Bit concerned now that I may have over-adjusted it.

[DanThe]

12 point spanner?

[gudgeon]

The domed bolt is a simply 7mm head as previously stated.
The female threaded rod requires gripping while you turn the bolt, or the whole rod assembly will turn. It has a sort of splined head on it, but the tricky bit is accessing the rod while your 7mm socket is over the bolt, and normally the whole lot is recessed into the servo housing.

So you need to either push against the servo spring and secure, and then hold the splined rod with something (vice-grips in my case) Or, as I did, push up the rod and grab it with the vice grips and let them prevent the rod from retracting back into the servo housing.

I expect there's possibly some sort of cranked spanner that fits over the splines for the specialists.

Anyway, it's not hard if you're not fussy about grabbing things hard with a vice-grip.

[craigieeb]

Awesome

Sticky ?

[turk]

Can u not just drill new holes closer in for the clevis pin?

[gudgeon]

Surely this doesn't deserve it's own sticky? I have no objection to the photos being added to some existing (more detailed) thread on brake servos.

[turk]

I've have finished the conversion im doing but the brakes are still not playing game. I have had a play with the servo rod and think I have it about right. I get good travel down the pedal etc. I have now completely bled the brakes and im only getting a minimal amount of resistance from the pedal. When pushed hard it puts up a bit of a fight and the allows the pedal to sink to the floor.

Im using clio servo, e30 mc, mazda 4 pot brakes. What am I doing wrong?

[327ire]

Just installed a clio servo today. It had the adjustable part above but it was too short to adjust all the way to become flush with the edge of the case. So iv used a spacer instead. It does bite but the travel is only about 1cm, is this right? It seems a bit short and id imagine it will be to sensitive on the road.

[DanThe]

Just installed a clio servo today. It had the adjustable part above but it was too short to adjust all the way to become flush with the edge of the case. So iv used a spacer instead. It does bite but the travel is only about 1cm, is this right? It seems a bit short and id imagine it will be to sensitive on the road.

Will be much different with the engine running

[327ire]

thats the thing, the engine was running

its turning out to be a total bitch! Luckily this is a test run on my garage e30 but i will have to do the job on my driver some day.

danthe do u have any straight shafts in stock?

[DanThe]

I think im down to my last one, pm me for details

[staley_turbo]

No spacers on mine.

Sorry! I do have a spacer on mine. I didn't have the adjustable part so i used the m20 servo to compere were the rod should be and made the spacer to match. Its quite important to get this the right length although you do have some adjustment in the peddle rod under the dash.

[turk]

So should the pedal be solid ish when car is not running? Because when I start mine I have no pedal and no braking at all. I drove it 5 meters ish today and had to use the handbrake to stop despite bleeding all corners and the abs pump(I hope).

Really need to get this bastard driving now for mot.
Cheers

[staley_turbo]

Sounds like you need to adjust the rod or put a spacer in. Take your MC off and compere were the rod sits to the standerd servo.

[turk]

unfortunately dont have the standard servo. can someone measure how far in the road is on an e30 servo from the outer lip?

Many thanx

[staley_turbo]

I remember it being almost level with the top.

[turk]

With pedal depressed?

[staley_turbo]

No without.

[turk]

Ahh. Becase without the pedal depressed the Clio rod sits a good inch in from the edge.

[staley_turbo]

Yes thats it.

[goosiegander]

Interesting reading

[DanThe]

Just to add to this thread, ive recently fitted a clio servo to an E30 so thought id check out the adjustment, the paint mark in the pic is where the push rod sat originally, which measured 22mm from the face of the servo (E30 pushrod is flush with the face of the servo)



As you can see there is realistically only 15mm of outwards adjustment left, leaving a safe 5mm of thread inserted.

The splined end has 14 points so is a special tool, if you push the pedal out you can grip the end with mole grips pretty easily to fine tune your brakes, I used a 20mm spacer in the E30 master cylinder and wound the pushrod back in to the original position

[turk]

I just got a high tensile M6 long bolt, screwed it right down released the pedal to line up with the edge of servo, got some bolt cutters and copped it off a little proud. Then got the files out and shaped it nicely as well as adjusting it.

Job done.