m52, will this combo work?

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nickso
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Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:58 pm

ok, ive done feck about this due to snow halting play....engine is entirely disconnected from car but still in it as its under a snow drift. :roll: its melting now so i might have it out next weekend.

ive been thinking and reading more about just using the e36 box. the one in mine is fecked i think....unless i find the clutch or something easy is buggered when i split it sometime soon.

so if i source another e36 box what diff do i use? is it z3 or z3m? what ratio am i looking for? what kind of price is not outrageous? they seem to vary on egay from reasonable to new mortgage required.

also what happens with the prop if i go e36?
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DanThe
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Thu Feb 04, 2010 7:03 pm

Do you have an E30 LSD already? If you do an iS box will sit straight in the tunnel, bolt up with the standard support and fit with a 325i prop.
Diff ratios for an e36 box will need to be anywhere between 2.93 and 3.25
nickso
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Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:57 pm

i dont have an iS box or an e30 LSD. dont know what to do now :)

quite fancy using the e36 box now simply cos thats what the m52 came with, if its going to cause diff and prop hassle i may just bin the idea and go with plan A......g260 box and source an e30 LSD then do whatever lash up is required on the prop.

2.93-3.25 LSD's will be thin on the ground im guessing. :)
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DanThe
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Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:02 pm

Which is why the best way to go is find an LSD for reasonable money first, then choose the gearbox over that
nickso
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Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:03 pm

i suppose that makes sense. only problem is im diff challenged....without asking fucking stupid questions i havent got a clue. :)
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nickso
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Sun Feb 28, 2010 11:59 am

when buying a new thermostat housing for the m52 does it come with gaskets or do i need to order seperate?
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nickso
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Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:48 pm

whats the deal with the AKG engine mounts? theres two sets listed on their site.

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/ca ... M50%20Swap

its for a track car so will the cheaper set be ok or do i need to get the pricey ones?
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DanThe
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Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:54 pm

Use an alloy stat housing, gaskets are separate

For a track car you are better off spending on the $200 mounts
nickso
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Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:00 am

who sells the alloy ones?
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DanThe
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Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:05 am

Apparently ECP but the fools at my local branch dont think so, you can buy them from the US for about £30 inc post
town325i
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Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:29 am

DanThe wrote:Apparently ECP but the fools at my local branch dont think so, you can buy them from the US for about £30 inc post
When i asked at the dealer im sure they told me they where £15 ish but im not sure if that was a plastic one
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DanThe
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Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:05 am

Alloy housings are NLA from dealers
hammoj28
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Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:13 pm

Nick,

Bit random, been speakin to Dave.

If you use an E30 318iS box you should get hold of an E30 320i Gear linkage.

THats what I used and The top alloy part is the perfect length. Then all you have to do is mod the steel part of the 318iS linkage which is easy welded.
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Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:43 pm

Pffft, real men easily weld the alloy part too winkeye

Although, if I could have got one off the shelf that would work with my iS and 6 speed box I would have used it too :o:
M42 rightness above 6500rpm, nobody can hear you scream
nickso
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:55 am

hammoj28 wrote:Nick,

Bit random, been speakin to Dave.

If you use an E30 318iS box you should get hold of an E30 320i Gear linkage.

THats what I used and The top alloy part is the perfect length. Then all you have to do is mod the steel part of the 318iS linkage which is easy welded.
aha but i'm daft and doing it all backwards. :)

i now have an m3 prop, e36 gearbox and no diff.....yet, hopefully one is soon to be available. in true bodger style i plan to lash them all up and swear loads when it doesnt fit/work/drive/not explode. :wink:

anyone have any suggestions for a decent clutch to buy? the one on it doesnt look bad but i dont really want to remove the GB anytime soon.
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DanThe
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:38 am

Sachs are the best, just dont buy an aircon spec
nickso
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:12 pm

thanks again dan. :) i saw the thing about the aircon spec ones, i'll remember that.

just been reading simons thread on his e36 touring. he says he is going to be using the m20 fly and clutch. wasnt aware this was an option with the e36 box. i assume the m20 isnt as heavy but whats involved in swapping it? bar a new clutch i have all the bits out of both cars.
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DanThe
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:36 pm

Just the flywheel and clutch, everything else can stay the same
nickso
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:49 pm

ok, i just searched e36 coupe and it said m20 starter and shave the fins of the sump too. that should be straightforward enough. :)
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DanThe
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:52 pm

Starter aswell yes :)
nickso
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Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:15 pm

cheers dan.

loom is on its way BTW. :)
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nickso
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Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:10 pm

done some more today, i assume once i have removed the m52 oil pick up pipe bracket i leave the m52 baffle on the engine and remove the baffle attached to the m50 sump?
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Alex
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Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:46 pm

Lee sent me this list, i hope he doesnt mind me using it in this thread

Its for an IS shell but alot will still apply
E30BeemerLad wrote:OK, shopping list, using your car.

M50/52 engine, (budget for doing a water pump change)
E34 sump, oil pickup pipe & dipstick. (new sump gasket regardless)
E36 engine arms
E28 M5 rubber engine mounts
M52 exhaust manifold
Use your own rad & buy the thermo switch which will bolt to the side of the rad
Electric fan - air con fan from E36 or E34 will do fine
Clio servo from 2000 onwards clio
Loom for the electric fan £40 from DanThe
Converted engine loom £100 exchange from DanThe
M20 flywheel & clutch
320 gear selector rod & alloy cradle where the gearstick sits
325 propshaft
Diff - your choice
Coding plug for 6 pot car fitted into your cluster
If your car has ABS then you'll have to use a cone filter
Fit an E36 rack & modify pipes

As to how you get a lot of the bits, depends really, I'd look at getting a complete car as the cheapest way of getting the engine (assuming there is stuff worth selling on from the car) -E36 is probably a better bet for resale of morsels. It is important to hear the engine running and see how it goes unless you are buying from someone you trust.

Hope that helps
:)
ive got it saved in my savebox for when i do an m52 conversion :)
nickso
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Sat Mar 20, 2010 10:26 pm

Alex wrote:Lee sent me this list, i hope he doesnt mind me using it in this thread

Its for an IS shell but alot will still apply
E30BeemerLad wrote:OK, shopping list, using your car.

M50/52 engine, (budget for doing a water pump change)
E34 sump, oil pickup pipe & dipstick. (new sump gasket regardless)
E36 engine arms
E28 M5 rubber engine mounts
M52 exhaust manifold
Use your own rad & buy the thermo switch which will bolt to the side of the rad
Electric fan - air con fan from E36 or E34 will do fine
Clio servo from 2000 onwards clio
Loom for the electric fan £40 from DanThe
Converted engine loom £100 exchange from DanThe
M20 flywheel & clutch
320 gear selector rod & alloy cradle where the gearstick sits
325 propshaft
Diff - your choice
Coding plug for 6 pot car fitted into your cluster
If your car has ABS then you'll have to use a cone filter
Fit an E36 rack & modify pipes

As to how you get a lot of the bits, depends really, I'd look at getting a complete car as the cheapest way of getting the engine (assuming there is stuff worth selling on from the car) -E36 is probably a better bet for resale of morsels. It is important to hear the engine running and see how it goes unless you are buying from someone you trust.

Hope that helps
:)
ive got it saved in my savebox for when i do an m52 conversion :)
so many different ways.

i'm going to post up my final list when ive finished (hopefully within a few weeks).

the only thing im struggling with is the LSD. dont have a clio servo or a fan yet but thats easy sorted. havent sussed fan wiring yet either.

got the sump swapped and my shiny rocker back on today. changed a few leaking gaskets too. running out of stuff to do until i get the loom back so i might have to start removing the m20 tomorrow.
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nickso
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:48 pm

has anyone managed to use an m50 manifold on an m52 but kept the ICV and PCV setup? i know nost have binned it but i'd like to keep it as mr bmw intended.

i'm using several guides from then net but almost all are e36 cars that dont need to change the sump/dipstick. this looks the trickiest part and i cant actually find anyone one the net who has done it.

looking at it just now it seems the dipsticks will need to be cut and shut to make one as the oil return on the m50 is much higher on the m52 dipstick, plus there are two on the m50 and only one on the m52. i could post pics if anyone is confused.....i know i am. :)
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DanThe
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 1:22 pm

If you want to fit an oil return you can drill and tap the sump which would leave the dipstick standard
nickso
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:30 pm

cheers dan but sump is on now, cant be arsed to remove it

several hours later and a few sweary words too, i think ive almost sussed it.

i need three bespoke hoses that im going to try for in silicon from somewhere as they bend better than rubber. the m50 dipstick can be drilled and the m52 oil return welded into it. the double oil return on the m50 dipstick can be plugged. the PCV sits at an odd angle but its the only place it can go if its all going to fit.

the only thing left after ignoring the charcoal canister connections (or maybe i shouldnt) is what i assume to be a vacuum hose connection around 8mm off the bottom of the m50 throttle housing, next to the throttle heater connection. where does that go?
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DanThe
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:43 pm

Blank it off and remove anything to do with the charcoal canister
nickso wrote:the double oil return on the m50 dipstick can be plugged.
If you mean the little pipe that sits at the top of the dipstick at 90° you can just chop it off as its not vented to the diptick tube at all
nickso
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:29 pm

DanThe wrote:Blank it off and remove anything to do with the charcoal canister
nickso wrote:the double oil return on the m50 dipstick can be plugged.
If you mean the little pipe that sits at the top of the dipstick at 90° you can just chop it off as its not vented to the diptick tube at all
yeh i just realised that when i chopped it off. :)

ok so charcoal can is gone. that only leaves me with the vacuum can that sits under the starter. one side came from under the m52 manifold, ive forgotten but i assume the other side went up to the FPR?

also the wee pipe im on about on the throttle body is on this pic. the line from bolt number ten just misses the bottom of it. the hole appears right behind the butterfly.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=13&fg=15
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DanThe
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:58 pm

Blank it off.

Get rid of the plastic thing under the starter, pipe from FPR goes to the underside of the manifold
nickso
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:13 pm

ok, that simplifies things a bit.

i'll weld up the dipstick , get the three hoses and that should do it.

did you get the loom BTW? i forgot to ask i've been that busy with other m52 shit.
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DanThe
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:13 pm

Yes mate, should be done this week
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:18 pm

cool. thanks for that.
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nickso
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Sun May 09, 2010 3:41 pm

engine goes in tomorrow, weather permitting. :D

was just looking at the gearstick carrier/holder/doofer the m20 and m52 ones have different offsets. whats the best one to use if i'm using the m52 box?
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Sun May 09, 2010 3:44 pm

i used an e36 325i carrier doofer jobber with the e36 328i linkage and a z3 lever - although the z3 lever isnt as much as a shortshift in mine than it was with the m40 gearbox.
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