bmw e30 m50 conversion gearbox help

[ibzy]

Hi I've changed the slave cylinder on the gearbox from my e30 had to change as the old one was broken so I've changed it and clutch pedal is going fully to floor and cannot disengage the clutch can anyone help

[bosers]

Have you adjusted the pull rod that goes from pedal behind glove box to servo? Could be that.

[jmc330i]

Have you adjusted the pull rod that goes from pedal behind glove box to servo? Could be that.

Eh?? That's brakes, the OP is talking clutch hydraulics.

[bosers]

Oh yeah what a dumbass! Been a long day. Sorry for dodgy advice mate!

[bimanut]

Bleeding the clutch in an e30 is a right royal pain in the butt.... I have found the best way to get it working is to reverse bleed it, followed by a normal bleeding once you get some sort of a pedal.

Total pita to do!
How do you reverse bleed it? Fit future reference

[ibzy]

Bleeding the clutch in an e30 is a right royal pain in the butt.... I have found the best way to get it working is to reverse bleed it, followed by a normal bleeding once you get some sort of a pedal.

could you give me step by step guide on how to do this

[ibzy]

You force fluid into the slave bleed nipple to push fluid up the line and into the master cylinder. This way you are making air go the way it wants to go (up) instead of trying to force it down against it's will. This often clears the airlocks that form in the standard bleeding process, allowing you to then bleed the system normally once you have established enough pedal by the reverse bleeding process.

I have a largish (500ml) container (which I fill with brake fluid) with a long flexible plastic pipe off the bottom which attaches to the bleed nipple. I hang the container in the engine bay so it is above the level of the master cylinder reservoir, pressurise the cylinder with a 12v tyre inflater pump via a tyre valve fitted in the lid. (the lid must seal obviously).

It does not take much pressure to force the fluid backwards up the system. Keep the pump running until you see fluid filling the master cylinder reservoir, stop the pump, close the bleed nipple, and check if you have some pedal. If you do, connect a long bleed pipe to the bleed nipple, take the other end and dunk it in the master cylinder reservoir (I use the one from my bleed unit), open the bleed nipple and pump until you do not see any air in the system, close the nipple and you should nnow have a full pedal.... (hopefully )

I have been using this method for many years and it always works to clear the air locks. Occasionally it needs more than one back-bleed to get the air out so normal bleeding can continue.

Thanks will try this

[Brianmoooore]

A variation on will's method is to connect a piece of pipe between the front left brake caliper nipple and the clutch slave. Crack open both nipples and proceed as if bleeding the brakes.
Be careful not to transfer any dirt that may be in the caliper nipple.