m30 chip

[ross_jsy]

So I am not massively impressed after doing the m30 swap. My m20 made good power and was really rev hungry, so perhaps my driving technique just needs some recalibrating.

Anyway, it feels all out of ideas by about 5k. Is one of speed touches chips worthwhile, or are the extra revs afforded wasted?

Thanks

Ross

[Rav335uk]

Singlemass flywheel upgrade.
You have a dualmass fly taking a while to spin up

[Bristol_Jer]

I never drove mine with the dual-mass, I'd swapped it for a lighter single-mass while I had the engine apart but feeling the weight of them side by side it is a huge reduction in weight.

I definitely noticed a little bit more grunt when I fitted the one of Speedtouch's chips to my car, seemed a little more eager in the top 3/4 of the rev range. The higher rev limit isn't needed at all though, pointless revving it that high.

Even with my Schrick cam fitted with the standard cam pulley, maximum power is just under 5000rpm, and peak torque at 3700rpm, they aren't rev-hungry engines, just got to use the low down torque.

What diff ratio are you running?

[ross_jsy]

It's starting to free up a bit more now. Have a feeling it was pottered around in and just needs a good raping. New gapped plugs, leads and valve clearances done today helped a bit more too.

I noticed that the inlet cam lobe on cylinder 1 is quite worn at the tip, which has got me thinking of putting a cam in it. Most people seem to say it's a bit pointless, what is your view?

I will be on the look out for a single mass flywheel.

Diff is a 3.64

[ross_jsy]

And it's actually pretty quick. I think it's just the power delivery that is masking it. My m20 had a bit of work done (ported, bigger TB, tubular headers etc) and really had to be pushed to make progress. So moving to a lazy m30 that doesn't rev it didn't feel as quick.

However last night I took it through a small tunnel by my house and it was 10mph up on the m20 by the end of it without pushing particularly hard

[Rav335uk]

It'll get better once you work out the torque band

[ross_jsy]

Yep, just taking everything 1 gear higher and relying on torque. It's an odd feeling as I am used to being past 5k with the m20.

[Bristol_Jer]

If you were just going to put the cam in and do nothing else then to be honest it's probably not worth it, the Schrick cams aren't cheap and you don't get huge gains. IIRC the standard 530 (m30) cam has a bit more duration (or maybe lift, can't remember) than the 535 cam so more cost effective if you needed a new cam, worth a quick google to find out about.

I thought the same as you when I first drove my m30'd car, felt slow but as Rav said get used to using the torque and it's a good fun

3.64 should keep the acceleration lively, I've got a 3.73 in mine now but had a 3.64 before.

And despite what everyone says, you can make an m30'd e30 handle well without under-steering everywhere, just takes a bit of patience trying suspension and ARB set-ups ;)

[ross_jsy]

Well it started billowing out blue smoke earlier after some spirited driving. Removed the plugs and number 1 plug is wet with oil. A friend is bringing a compression tester round tomorrow, hopefully it's just a valve seal and not worn rings. It happened very suddenly so my money is old worn out seals from an engine that hasn't been ran in years failing.

Gives me a chance to give it a proper going over. Have acquired a head gasket set and seals from a friend who bought a job lot from BMW, just need head bolts.

Hoping what Jeremy said about the cam is true as I have a freshly rebuilt b30 head complete with new Febi cam and rockers which will be pilfered

[ross_jsy]

Interestingly, RealOEM lists the same part number for both the m30b30 and m30b35 cams

[ross_jsy]

To close this off, I did a comp test which revealed cylinder 1 to be way down on compression. Cylinders 2-6 were a healthy 170-178 psi on a cold engine, no. 1 was 50-70. I assumed the worst, but whipped off the rocker cover to be greeted by a snapped inlet rocker.

I removed the head, rebuilt it with the new cam and rockers from the 3 litre head, lapped in the valves and bolted it back together with a Elring head gasket set. Turned out the valve guide on cylinder 1 was very tight. So tight I had to hammer out the valve. Looking at the rockers, they are date stamped 96 on an 88 engine. My current theory is the head has had a rebuild at some point and whoever did it went to town removing the valve seals with grips or similar, bending the valve guide. To fix it, I donned my cow boy hat, wrapped some 600 grade sand paper round a drill bit and slowly sanded down the guide. Worked like a treat with no play. New valve guides would have been the better solution, but it has worked very well and I see no reason why it will cause any problems.

While there I gasket matched the inlet side and installed new exhaust studs and nuts.

Now it is back together, I take back any hesitation I had about the swap. It is properly rapid. 0-60 I don't think there is much in it between a good m20, but above that the m30 just pulls and pulls.

I will put a 1000 miles on it or so, re-check the valve adjustments and order a chip and see how we go. It now pulls pretty much right to the limiter (a slight drop off after about 5,500 but that is to be expected.

I will update my build thread on the car with the engine swap and this adventure when I get time.

[Bristol_Jer]

Nice one

[Rav335uk]

Well done there "Bro"