m30 gurus needed.!
Moderator: martauto
Need some help from you m30 brains, Ok so I've got my m30 project car, pleased with it but it has running issues.
When cold it starts up fine then idle seeks for a second but stabilizes, but when you touch the throttle the thing chokes up horribly, to the point it sometimes misses a beat for a second then continues to run. It also sounds like a harley davidson at low revs all choked up and stuttering, really not running well.!
Once its warmed up its a little better, but still horrible and difficult to drive, practically stalling the thing as I take off.
Any ideas what I can begin to check?
When cold it starts up fine then idle seeks for a second but stabilizes, but when you touch the throttle the thing chokes up horribly, to the point it sometimes misses a beat for a second then continues to run. It also sounds like a harley davidson at low revs all choked up and stuttering, really not running well.!
Once its warmed up its a little better, but still horrible and difficult to drive, practically stalling the thing as I take off.
Any ideas what I can begin to check?
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MJJ_ZX6RR
- E30 Zone Regular

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My M30 suffered the same symptoms.
My donor engine came from a catalyst equipped E32 so had a lambda sensor fitted. Unplugging this worked wonders as the car works happily on a default fuel map.
I also had an air leak in the small elbow pipe that runs from the rocker cover to the inlet tract, just before the MAF IIRC. Replacing that elbow helped.
Martin.
My donor engine came from a catalyst equipped E32 so had a lambda sensor fitted. Unplugging this worked wonders as the car works happily on a default fuel map.
I also had an air leak in the small elbow pipe that runs from the rocker cover to the inlet tract, just before the MAF IIRC. Replacing that elbow helped.
Martin.
----------------------------------------------------
Lots of bikes, the odd modern BMW, and now an 88 e30 335i Cab project with E32 running gear
Lots of bikes, the odd modern BMW, and now an 88 e30 335i Cab project with E32 running gear
Ah good point, I'm not sure which car my M30B35 is from, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a lambda sensor fitted. Will double check.
I'm also suspecting low fuel pressure, travelling on the motorway at 70mpg the car was stuttering back like the gas pedal was being blipped. Also it stutters/splutters when you open the throttle hot or cold....
I'm also suspecting low fuel pressure, travelling on the motorway at 70mpg the car was stuttering back like the gas pedal was being blipped. Also it stutters/splutters when you open the throttle hot or cold....
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Bristol_Jer
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70 mpg with an m30!
+1 for checking airleaks, mine was an absolute pig to get running properly. An inlet manifold gasket (replaced the lot), a couple of breather hoses and the big AFM pipe on mine all were causing airleaks amongst other things.
Also my fuel filter was ancient, 10 years old I think, so that wasn't helping matters and would be something to check.
If you are ok with a multimeter then you can check crank position sensor, plug leads, blue temp sensor etc for resistance, I found the values by searching on here but can't remember where I found them sorry.
+1 for checking airleaks, mine was an absolute pig to get running properly. An inlet manifold gasket (replaced the lot), a couple of breather hoses and the big AFM pipe on mine all were causing airleaks amongst other things.
Also my fuel filter was ancient, 10 years old I think, so that wasn't helping matters and would be something to check.
If you are ok with a multimeter then you can check crank position sensor, plug leads, blue temp sensor etc for resistance, I found the values by searching on here but can't remember where I found them sorry.
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Rav335uk
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Check you rotor arm and plugs first, these are the easy ones.
If it's still out, then the crank sensor, leaks in the rubber hoses etc....
DO NOT TOUCH THE AFM yet, if that's origional factory setup, you want to leave it as is.!
If it's still out, then the crank sensor, leaks in the rubber hoses etc....
DO NOT TOUCH THE AFM yet, if that's origional factory setup, you want to leave it as is.!

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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Rav335uk
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For a start, get rid of the shi77y K&N filter, all your doing is sucking in hot air that side of the engine.
Get the OEM airbox back on, then try.
Get the OEM airbox back on, then try.

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
Ok checked dizzy and rotor arm, plugs and leads. All look pretty new.
Tested AFM too, reads 2.5 - 3.5 ohms from closed to open.
Also double checked for air leaks, all is good.
ICV is working, buzzes when ignition is on, valve is free to move.
Replaced blue temp sensor with known working one.
Only thing I can think now is fuel pressure.? What other reason would it choke up when I open the throttle?
Tested AFM too, reads 2.5 - 3.5 ohms from closed to open.
Also double checked for air leaks, all is good.
ICV is working, buzzes when ignition is on, valve is free to move.
Replaced blue temp sensor with known working one.
Only thing I can think now is fuel pressure.? What other reason would it choke up when I open the throttle?
Good call, was a 325i though. Thing is it seems fine at mid to high revs, pulls like a train too.
Where is the best place to test fuel pressure? At the fuel rail?
Oh, would a badly leaking centre exhaust box create these running problems? Loss of back pressure perhaps?
Where is the best place to test fuel pressure? At the fuel rail?
Oh, would a badly leaking centre exhaust box create these running problems? Loss of back pressure perhaps?
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Rav335uk
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A loss of back pressure wouldn't cause that much of an issue.
Have you have the pot out of the tank???
Maybe some blockage or crap in the bottom of the pot.?
Have you have the pot out of the tank???
Maybe some blockage or crap in the bottom of the pot.?

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
Yeah thats my next port of call, have a look at the fuel delivery system. When travelling in 4th or 5th gear at around 50-7mph, I can feel it shuddering back slightly, as if the fuel supply was being interrupted...
Where is the best place to test fuel pressure? At the fuel rail?
Where is the best place to test fuel pressure? At the fuel rail?
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Rav335uk
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Yes.
Have you changed the FPR on the rail??
I had a problem with mine years ago, changed the FPR and it's been ok after that.
Have you changed the FPR on the rail??
I had a problem with mine years ago, changed the FPR and it's been ok after that.

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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Rav335uk
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The date of manufacture is on the head, can remeber exactly where though, inlet or exhaust side.
It's large enough to see though enclosed in a circle.
It's large enough to see though enclosed in a circle.

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
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Bristol_Jer
- E30 Zone Addict

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Yea, I thought the m30 has a 179 ECU?
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Bristol_Jer
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Am I right in saying the 173 ecu can be used if the m30 chip from a 179 is fitted? Maybe the wrong ECU could be the cause of the running problems?
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Rav335uk
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I have an M20 ECU running my M30 in the Cab, but it has one of Speedtouch's chip in it, and no running issues.

If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL


