My M30 conversion
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Bristol_Jer
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On my list, pin 15 on the car side is the 'unloader relay', black and green wire, which I have connected to pin 15 of the engine loom which is also black and green
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leeparkes
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This means nothing to meBristol_Jer wrote:'unloader relay'
Edit; there's a nearly new dizzy and rotor for sale in this thread.
http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=204251
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
felt so proud,even tried it with a E30 325i and got put in my place..
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Bristol_Jer
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I think it means the DME relay, not sure though?
Are m20 and m30 cap and rotor arms the same?
Are m20 and m30 cap and rotor arms the same?
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leeparkes
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Yes, there the same mate.Bristol_Jer wrote:Are m20 and m30 cap and rotor arms the same?
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
felt so proud,even tried it with a E30 325i and got put in my place..
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Bristol_Jer
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Didn't realise that, thanks Lee 
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Bristol_Jer
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Cap and rotor arm bought and hopefully I'll get my hoses from Cotswold delivered this week. Might as well get a set of plug leads as well while I'm at it, they are done then. I hope that little lot should sort it!
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leeparkes
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New from BMW are about £170 (or was)Bristol_Jer wrote:Might as well get a set of plug leads as well while I'm at it
Have you tested the leads with a meter? should read between 5000 - 6000 ohm.
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
felt so proud,even tried it with a E30 325i and got put in my place..
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Bristol_Jer
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Ouch! No I haven't tested them, I'll do that before I look to get any more then I think
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Bristol_Jer
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Should have all the hoses and parts I (hope!) will need to get running right delivered middle of next week.
Have a 3.73 LSD sorted, and a RPM strut brace and sump guard on the way soon, and am saving up for a 280mm WMS front brake kit, hopefully be able to order it next month as long as the MOT doesn't cost a fortune to get through!
Have a 3.73 LSD sorted, and a RPM strut brace and sump guard on the way soon, and am saving up for a 280mm WMS front brake kit, hopefully be able to order it next month as long as the MOT doesn't cost a fortune to get through!
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Bristol_Jer
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New vacuum/breather hoses fitted, idle has stopped hunting, but it now idles a bit low, will clean the ICV out, and then give it a good caning up the road, that should clear out the cobwebs
MOT being booked for next Saturday morning.
Oh and the heater blower fan has started working again, the fan was a bit stuck as it hasn't been used for nearly a year so my c101 rewiring is a success!
MOT being booked for next Saturday morning.
Oh and the heater blower fan has started working again, the fan was a bit stuck as it hasn't been used for nearly a year so my c101 rewiring is a success!
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Bristol_Jer
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Hmm, the engine sounds like it is missfiring and won't rev cleanly, so MOT is postponed for now
I've fitted the new cap and rotor arm and new plugs but still the same. Going to have to order a set of plug leads I think, and if that doesn't work start going through the sensors and checking injectors
I've fitted the new cap and rotor arm and new plugs but still the same. Going to have to order a set of plug leads I think, and if that doesn't work start going through the sensors and checking injectors
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Bristol_Jer
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Bristol_Jer
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Don't do clean/tidy cars! Never have done, function over form everytime lol!
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Bristol_Jer
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Going to try a set of ebay cheapies for now, and carefully transfer over the sensor lead. I know not the best solution, but I just want to try and eliminate the problem first. Going to do a compression test as well before I start chucking money at other things, as I didn't hear the engine running before I bought it so you never know.....leeparkes wrote:Its the natural look Rav![]()
What leads you going for?
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leeparkes
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The sensor on lead 6 isnt really nessasary, its for the injectors. With it fitted the injectors fire on banks of 3 whereas without the lead they fire all the time.
Check your leads first for cracks/splits then get a multimeter on them, resistance should be between 5000 - 6000 ohm, im not 100% on the king lead (coil to dizzy) but im sure it reads lower.
If you havent heard it run id do a compression test first, Did you set the valve clearances, Does it smoke?
Check your leads first for cracks/splits then get a multimeter on them, resistance should be between 5000 - 6000 ohm, im not 100% on the king lead (coil to dizzy) but im sure it reads lower.
If you havent heard it run id do a compression test first, Did you set the valve clearances, Does it smoke?
Cypriotgeeza wrote:I done both my mates in my old 318is
felt so proud,even tried it with a E30 325i and got put in my place..
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Bristol_Jer
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Really, thats good as I'm pretty sure I have my b20 leads still in the shed somewhere 
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Bristol_Jer
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The leads look good, genuine BMW ones so guess they are original though. I'll test the resistance on them, thanks for the info Lee 
I will do a compression test this weekend to see, I'm sure the engine is ok though but will make sure. Apart from the reluctance to rev cleanly, the engine seems fine, starts straight away and no smoke at all, even when I first started it. The exhaust fumes don't smell oily, just normal. I haven't checked the valve clearances yet either
I will do a compression test this weekend to see, I'm sure the engine is ok though but will make sure. Apart from the reluctance to rev cleanly, the engine seems fine, starts straight away and no smoke at all, even when I first started it. The exhaust fumes don't smell oily, just normal. I haven't checked the valve clearances yet either
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Bristol_Jer
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Had a couple of hours to spend on the car this afternoon. I tested the resistance of the plug leads:
1 - 5900 ohms
2 - 5800 ohms
3 - 5570 ohms
4 - 5830 ohms
5 - 5690 ohms
6 - 5450 ohms
Coil lead measured 2090 ohms
So all in spec.
I took off the fuel filter to replace it, unfortunately GSF have given me the wrong one, but the age of the old one was quite a surprise!

20 years old this month
I haven't tested the compression yet, need to borrow my Dad's compression tester.
1 - 5900 ohms
2 - 5800 ohms
3 - 5570 ohms
4 - 5830 ohms
5 - 5690 ohms
6 - 5450 ohms
Coil lead measured 2090 ohms
So all in spec.
I took off the fuel filter to replace it, unfortunately GSF have given me the wrong one, but the age of the old one was quite a surprise!

20 years old this month
I haven't tested the compression yet, need to borrow my Dad's compression tester.
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Bristol_Jer
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I bought a compression tester today so will do the testing tomorrow after work.
I gave the ICV a good clean out and checked the resistances across the terminals, all in spec so thats fitted back on. Should have the correct fuel filter here tomorrow so I can try starting the engine again to see if it is running any better
I gave the ICV a good clean out and checked the resistances across the terminals, all in spec so thats fitted back on. Should have the correct fuel filter here tomorrow so I can try starting the engine again to see if it is running any better
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Bristol_Jer
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Not yet mate, gets dark too bloody early now! Going to do it tomorrow as soon as I get home from work
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Bristol_Jer
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Compression tested today, all cylinders @ 12bar +/- 0.25 bar 
Got tomorrow afternoon off work so I'll have another few hours to investigate whats wrong.
One thing I did think of is the engine earth might not be brilliant, but the engine spins over really well. Going to run an extra lead to the block and see if that makes any difference
Got tomorrow afternoon off work so I'll have another few hours to investigate whats wrong.
One thing I did think of is the engine earth might not be brilliant, but the engine spins over really well. Going to run an extra lead to the block and see if that makes any difference
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Bristol_Jer
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Bloody thing won't even start now!! 
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Bristol_Jer
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All I had time to check was that the fuel pump is getting a feed when cranking the engine tonight. Got a busy week so won't be able to do anymore testing until the weekend. Fooking car! 
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Bristol_Jer
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No, it didn't Lee.
I also changed the plugs and the fuel filter. I've tried starting it loads of times, so filter should be full by now. When I get a chance I'll check if the fuel pump is working and I've still got a spark and I'll go from there.
I also changed the plugs and the fuel filter. I've tried starting it loads of times, so filter should be full by now. When I get a chance I'll check if the fuel pump is working and I've still got a spark and I'll go from there.
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Bristol_Jer
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Got home from work today and gave the car another try.
It started first time, idle wasn't very stable but it revved fine. Let it idle and then it stalled after about 10 secs. Then it wouldn't start, but the fuel pump was noisy when cranking the engine, like it was just trying to pump air.
Left it half an hour, and tried again. Started up straight away and then stalled after a couple of seconds. Then wouldn't start again.
There is nearly 1/4 a tank of fuel registering on the gauge, and it is fresh fuel I put in a couple of weeks ago. I'm thinking maybe the fuel pump is knackered? Had a look for any fuel leaks but nothing found so far.
It started first time, idle wasn't very stable but it revved fine. Let it idle and then it stalled after about 10 secs. Then it wouldn't start, but the fuel pump was noisy when cranking the engine, like it was just trying to pump air.
Left it half an hour, and tried again. Started up straight away and then stalled after a couple of seconds. Then wouldn't start again.
There is nearly 1/4 a tank of fuel registering on the gauge, and it is fresh fuel I put in a couple of weeks ago. I'm thinking maybe the fuel pump is knackered? Had a look for any fuel leaks but nothing found so far.



