missfire, HG problems? solved! page 3

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maggspower
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 6:01 pm

dubwonerbilco wrote:Right then, i have a working coolant temp gauge now :)

I am seriously starting to think i may have a Headgasket failure on my hands?

1. pressure in the coolant system
2. Missfiring when warm
3. Abit of white smoke from the exhaust

compression test results:
cyl 1 - 150
cyl 2 - 160
cyl 3 - 160
cyl 4 - 170
cyl 5 - 170
cyl 6 - 175

is it possible it could have just started to go on cylinder 1, which would mean when its warm the gap opens up and starts to cause the misfire which does get worse as it gets hotter and then also starts to over pressureize the coolant?

Also, what should happen when i disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vac pipe, as the revs just rise slightly and it behaves no differently when revv'd

I still have the 1.6 fuel pump, could this cause a problem not delivering enough fuel?
I think you are getting close to finding your problem, the low reading on cyl 1 needs to be investigated further.

Next steps would be get the coolant checked with a block tester kit, it can detect exhaust gasses within the cooling system, and/or have a leak down test done, simular to a compression test except you can tell where the weak component is, valves, rings, gaskets etc.

You could also perform a wet test with a compression tester, but the findings from this is a little less conclusive.

It does sound to me like a head gasket.
mcbonio
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:02 pm

Tell us about the donor car, did you see the engine running, if so was it ok? Or did buy it as a separate engine?
dubownerbilco
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:07 pm

I used the donor car for a week without any problems!

Only had to top the coolant up a few times because the rad was fucked and leaking all over the place!
maggspower
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:09 pm

mcbonio wrote:Tell us about the donor car, did you see the engine running, if so was it ok? Or did buy it as a separate engine?
Doesn't really matter how it was running or not, its how its running now thats the problem.
mcbonio
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:22 pm

Well maggs if you read earlier on in the thread, he's ran it to the point of overheating a couple of times since he's fitted it in the e30.

The point I wanted to make was perhaps he's buggered the head gasket by doing this, and that engine in fact ran fine when it was in the donor car.

See where I'm going with this?
maggspower
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:57 pm

Well maggs if you read earlier on in the thread, he's ran it to the point of overheating a couple of times since he's fitted it in the e30.

The point I wanted to make was perhaps he's buggered the head gasket by doing this, and that engine in fact ran fine when it was in the donor car.

See where I'm going with this?
dubwonerbilco wrote:so i have got my conversion up and running :)

but just having a couple of issues:

when cold the engine is fine and will rev without a problem but as it warms up the missfire becomes more obvious and almost undrivable past 1/4 throttle. i fitted a speedtouch chip and let it tickover for ten minutes as instructed and this made no dfference

also after having a brief drive in the car and letting it tickover for a while i noticed that the coolant hoses were rock solid and were visibly larger! all the hoses are connected as per the guide and i bled it without a problem :S

neither of these were issues when the engine was still fitted in the 5, as i used it for a week prior to removing the engine

any ideas people?

thanks in advance
Above is the first post of the thread. Yes I have read it have you? :D

Engine diagnosis, is all about testing then acting upon your findings.

The findings on the compression test, pressurised cooling system misfire as it gets warm, and a steamy exhaust, need to be brought to a conclusion. A leak down, or sniff test on the cooling would answer the question.
walinsky
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 8:22 pm

leeparkes wrote:If you say you bled it religiously and there's no other symptoms of it being a headgasket failure then id put money on it being the stat, if the stat is stuck shut it will be even harder to bleed plus it will get hot quick, ie 20 minutes. :D

Take it out and test it the old fashioned method.

Image

Do it on the cooker in a pan of water with the gas on.
If the thermostat isn't working; name me one (1) coolant hose that's going to be rock solid and visibly larger.
dubownerbilco
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Mon Nov 26, 2012 8:40 pm

all the hoses are rock solid!

i would rather it not be the head gasket as i still need to service it and pay copious amounts of money to get it on the road!
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 3:00 am

I don't think you have a choice.
Do the tests as Maggspower has advised, it'll narrow down what is wrong.
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dubownerbilco
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:33 am

Ime trying to track down a block tester today...

Edit: picking one up from a friend tonight, i shall post up the results...
dubownerbilco
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:00 pm

so i borrowed a brand new blue point combustion leak tester and it came up negative! i did it twice to make sure and its definetly negative...

so is this a definite answer of no to a dodgy HG?
mcbonio
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:28 pm

After how long do the hoses become solid?

Run it up to operating temperature and feel the hoses.
dubownerbilco
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:45 pm

The hoses feel rock hard and the cap starts hissing when the gauge is roughly half way
Rav335uk
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 8:49 pm

Thermostat sticking then.
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If you Got "Haters",Then your doing something Right!
CR24v??? Where's it all gone?? LOL
dubownerbilco
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 9:09 pm

Rav335uk wrote:Thermostat sticking then.
But both the top and bottom rad hoses are hot
mcbonio
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:04 pm

Might be a daft question, but did you put antifreeze in? Or just water?
dubownerbilco
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Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:21 pm

Water at first to check for leaks, but it wasnt run for very long at all with the water before i put antifreeze in
zaust
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Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:02 am

Get a cylinder comp test done as that will tell you hg or valve stem leak. Then pressurize the water system and get searching. These blocks are known for cracking / sspidering round the head bolts. Hg falier is normally 4 ,5 or 6 that go.
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dubownerbilco
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Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:30 am

Well it isnt burning any oil so valve stem seals wont have anything to do with it?
mcbonio
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Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:48 am

dubwonerbilco wrote:
compression test results:
cyl 1 - 150
cyl 2 - 160
cyl 3 - 160
cyl 4 - 170
cyl 5 - 170
cyl 6 - 175
These are his compression results Marc.
dubownerbilco
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Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:49 am

By the way, those results are listed as 1 at the bulkhead and 6 at the rad
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Wed Nov 28, 2012 2:16 pm

That means No6 is 150 then, i think that's low. :?
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zaust
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Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:17 pm

That now points more to hg. But small stem leak won't always be obvious. Do the leak test it will show you loads.
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dubownerbilco
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Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:40 pm

I now have a collection of parts to he fitted on sunday to hopefully cure the missfire...

Dizzy cap
Rotor arm
Leads
Plugs
Thermostat
Exhaust manifold gaskets (needed them anyway)
16" electric fan
dubownerbilco
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Sun Dec 02, 2012 4:58 pm

I fitted the new plugs and leads this morning as i had a spare hour and it works! No more missfire! Must have been a dodgy lead/plug that was playing up when it got warm :) i will stilll be fitting the other bits just for good measure though
zaust
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Sun Dec 02, 2012 5:24 pm

Good news.
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mcbonio
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Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:36 pm

Good work Dub, exactly the same problem mine had. A couple of bad leads.!
dubownerbilco
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Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:00 am

so all the rest of the sevice parts are now fitted (dizzy cap was a mess inside!)

and she now runs brilliantly :)

only problem is a rough tickover, but this can be related to the speedtouch chip, so i shall wait until i have some miles in her and see if it is anybetter!

also fited a 16" electric fan which has worked spot on, the temp doesnt get past half way when running and stays very stable
mcbonio
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Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:13 am

Good work dub, they can be a pain to get set up right but you've got the right frame of mind which is just keep at it until you solve it.! Give it a run in you'd be surprised how they settle down and improve once they're driven every day.

Mine was the same when I got it, ran really horrible, emissions through the roof, horrific gas mileage, went over everything 5 times until I found 2 dodgy leads and the wrong ECU. Now shes a champ, (almost.!)
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Sun Jun 30, 2013 10:39 pm

Was just reading this and wondered how the OP got on with the hard coolant pipes. Really glad he got it sorted but are the pipes still hard when the engine is up to temp?

mine are quite hard (when up to temp) but not out of shape, they are all soft and squidgy when cold.

cheers
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