Anyone removed a starter from an M30B35? Mine is stuck.

[MJJ_ZX6RR]

I need to remove the starter on my M30B35 (E32 735i) but cannot get it to move. According to realoem and Haynes, there is a single bolt holding it in, and I have removed that.

I cannot free the starter though. Anyone got any tips?

Martin

[Rav335uk]

Haynes is a load of bollocx, I have 2 bolts holding my M30 starter on, I know as I had to remove the bloody thing.

The second one is located right underneath the inlet valve, I had to use a stubby spanner to get to it.

[leeparkes]

Two bolts hold it on, you can just see in this pic

[MJJ_ZX6RR]

Cheers guys.

Can the one under the inlet be undone without dismantling anything? Just wondering if the fuel rail or the whole inlet manifold has to come off?

Martin.

[Rav335uk]

Yes it can, I have done it, but it's a royal pain in the asre to do, you need as I said before a stubby spanner and articulate hands, make sure you get one with a ring on the other end, and a piece of heavy duty robe, tow rope will do, put the rope in the ring end, place the spanner on the bolt add pull towards the driverside.

[zaust]

P2 make's it so much easier

[MJJ_ZX6RR]

Just wanted to say thanks again guys, two extension bars parallel to the starter motor axis meant I could undo fairly easily with a ratchet in the end. I had to move the coolant header tank and some loom before I could see the bolt however.

Ordered the starter rebuild parts from Cotswold, wish me luck ......

Martin.

[Rav335uk]

How much?

[MJJ_ZX6RR]

Repair kit was £15, not sure what is in it yet but looks (from realoem) like bushes, seals, maybe a bearing. New set of carbon brushes in their holder was £55.

Complete refurb'd starter was £320. GSF advertise a starter for only £95, but not had many good experiences with electrical items from GSF so decided to rebuild.

Martin.

[Rav335uk]

Let us know how you get on , mine is on it's way out i think, cranks over to a point then stops

Rav

[MJJ_ZX6RR]

Let us know how you get on , mine is on it's way out i think, cranks over to a point then stops

Rav

Rav,

Finished rebuilding the starter today, and get it back in the car. A vast improvement, the starter appears to spin twice as fast as before - engine hot or cold - so it has fixed the problems I was having.

If you fancy doing the same, the parts I used were: B12.41.1.721.297 - repair kit £11.19 + VAT
B12.41.1.726.041 - carbon brush set, official BMW name is merely "Spacer" - £48.10 + VAT.

The starter is very simple to take apart, clean and rebuild.

Martin.

[Rav335uk]

Good news, thanks for the parts list.

Rav

[gareth]

do your pre-fix symptoms look anything like this:

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=156558

[MJJ_ZX6RR]

do your pre-fix symptoms look anything like this:

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=156558

Gareth, similar but not identical. My pre-fix symptoms were:

- When cold, the starter turned slowly but would start the engine.
- When the engine is hot, the starter would turn 1 or 2 revolutions very slowly, then just get the clicking solenoid. Had to wait at least a couple of hours for things to cool down.
- Bridging 11 and 14 gave *exactly* the same symptoms as turning the key.

The repair kit (part number above) came with a couple of replacement solenoid parts too, obviously designed to allow you to alter the throw of the solenoid in cases of wear.

Martin.