m20 adjustable cam pulley Q's.

[steve_k]

a question for the folk with N/A m20's & adjustable cam pulleys.

looking at getting an adjustable cam pulley for my 2.7 m20,

it was built using custom pistons so it coud retain the 135mm roads (H section ones).

what i want to know is will it be possible to still use/refit the black plastic "bowl" that sits in between the cam pulley, rotor arm & dizzy cap? or will i have to leave it out? & if i did would everything still run ok?

the reason i ask is am going to be getting the engine mapped soon & would like to be able to dial in the cam correctly.

so, does anyone know?

[reggid]

unlikely youll keep the plastic dust shield depending on the exact gear you use, it doesnt matter though

[steve_k]

unlikely youll keep the plastic dust shield depending on the exact gear you use, it doesnt matter though

cheers dude, it's a nuke performance cam pulley i'm using, had to cut the dust shield back so i could refit the rotor arm adaptor,

strange thing is it will only fit with a gates belt, no others sit right in/on the teeth.

[DanThe]

strange thing is it will only fit with a gates belt, no others sit right in/on the teeth.

That is the exact reason why I make them from original pullies, so the belt fits properly.

[steve_k]

strange thing is it will only fit with a gates belt, no others sit right in/on the teeth.

That is the exact reason why I make them from original pullies, so the belt fits properly.

i was given the pulley for free so i couldn't really say no,

still got the original pulley so i may be tempted to give you a shout about one of your adjustable one's.

[reggid]

strange thing is it will only fit with a gates belt, no others sit right in/on the teeth.

That is the exact reason why I make them from original pullies, so the belt fits properly.

i was given the pulley for free so i couldn't really say no,

still got the original pulley so i may be tempted to give you a shout about one of your adjustable one's.

you got a bad one, theres a bad batch of nukes out there. send it back, you could probably get a replacement rim if you contact nuke direct

[steve_k]

That is the exact reason why I make them from original pullies, so the belt fits properly.

i was given the pulley for free so i couldn't really say no,

still got the original pulley so i may be tempted to give you a shout about one of your adjustable one's.

you got a bad one, theres a bad batch of nukes out there. send it back, you could probably get a replacement rim if you contact nuke direct

i did do, i emailed them a few pictures & got a reply nearly straight away, told me a new rim was on it's way & could i send the other one back,

just checked the tracking & it will be here tomorrow.

[boiliebasher]

[quote=steve_k post_id=2956600 time=1560104795 user_id=25937]
a question for the folk with N/A m20's & adjustable cam pulleys.

looking at getting an adjustable cam pulley for my 2.7 m20,

it was built using custom pistons so it coud retain the 135mm roads (H section ones).

what i want to know is will it be possible to still use/refit the black plastic "bowl" that sits in between the cam pulley, rotor arm & dizzy cap? or will i have to leave it out? & if i did would everything still run ok?

the reason i ask is am going to be getting the engine mapped soon & would like to be able to dial in the cam correctly.

so, does anyone know?
[/quote]

Just out of curiosity, where did you get your custom pistons from and how much if you don't mind me asking (feel free to PM if you prefer)

Am I correct in assuming if one were to go via custom piston route, you can use an ETA or D21 crank, 84mm bore block and because of the use of custom pistons retaining the 135mm rods but did NOT require you to deck the block?! Is that correct?
Many thanks

[steve_k]

a question for the folk with N/A m20's & adjustable cam pulleys.

looking at getting an adjustable cam pulley for my 2.7 m20,

it was built using custom pistons so it coud retain the 135mm roads (H section ones).

what i want to know is will it be possible to still use/refit the black plastic "bowl" that sits in between the cam pulley, rotor arm & dizzy cap? or will i have to leave it out? & if i did would everything still run ok?

the reason i ask is am going to be getting the engine mapped soon & would like to be able to dial in the cam correctly.

so, does anyone know?

Just out of curiosity, where did you get your custom pistons from and how much if you don't mind me asking (feel free to PM if you prefer)

Am I correct in assuming if one were to go via custom piston route, you can use an ETA or D21 crank, 84mm bore block and because of the use of custom pistons retaining the 135mm rods but did NOT require you to deck the block?! Is that correct?
Many thanks

hi bud,

the pistons were bought off a mate of mine a good few years ago, he'd had them a while himself as he'd planned to build his own 2.7 but went for a S50 instead,

yes they were made so that he (now me) could retain the 135mm rods & therefore no need to deck the block,

also i used the (very) rare M21D24 TD (forged) crank, both for its inherent strength & the fact i had it in stock at the time.

the block i used was a m20b20 bored out to 84mm to ensure fresh bores,

hope that helps.

[boiliebasher]

hi bud,

the pistons were bought off a mate of mine a good few years ago, he'd had them a while himself as he'd planned to build his own 2.7 but went for a S50 instead,

yes they were made so that he (now me) could retain the 135mm rods & therefore no need to deck the block,

also i used the (very) rare M21D24 TD (forged) crank, both for its inherent strength & the fact i had it in stock at the time.

the block i used was a m20b20 bored out to 84mm to ensure fresh bores,

hope that helps.
[/quote]

Actually that helps massively. Many thanks for the reply.
I think the pistons come from the u.s.a as I think I've seen them mentioned before somewhere on a U.S forum when researching the M20 stroker options.

I think you will probably have the perfect stroker setup from what you have mentioned above as some have indicated that using the 130mm rods apparently give piston slap?!

Plus no decking the block required etc. And if you have bored out an M20b20, you have brand spanking new cylinder walls to boot. Perfect combo imho. Should be a belter.

Anyway thanks again for the reply, much appreciated mate

[steve_k]

no worries glad to help.

forgot to add though, with the pistons being forged there is a little piston slap when the engine cold, disappears when the engine is up to temp though.

[reggid]

hi bud,

the pistons were bought off a mate of mine a good few years ago, he'd had them a while himself as he'd planned to build his own 2.7 but went for a S50 instead,

yes they were made so that he (now me) could retain the 135mm rods & therefore no need to deck the block,

also i used the (very) rare M21D24 TD (forged) crank, both for its inherent strength & the fact i had it in stock at the time.

the block i used was a m20b20 bored out to 84mm to ensure fresh bores,

hope that helps.

Actually that helps massively. Many thanks for the reply.
I think the pistons come from the u.s.a as I think I've seen them mentioned before somewhere on a U.S forum when researching the M20 stroker options.

I think you will probably have the perfect stroker setup from what you have mentioned above as some have indicated that using the 130mm rods apparently give piston slap?!

Plus no decking the block required etc. And if you have bored out an M20b20, you have brand spanking new cylinder walls to boot. Perfect combo imho. Should be a belter.

Anyway thanks again for the reply, much appreciated mate

there are many different types of custom pistons available. choose wisely as most are generic rubbish that are inferior to the factory Mahle/KS ones

[croqy]

Got my forged pistons/BV head/steel H/G Cam etc from Vac Motorsports USA... very good and helpful