Does anyone have experience of removing the broken studs ( engine is out of the car ). Unfortunately I didn't snap them, they were already gone when i got the engine and theyre broken with no part sticking out at all ( in fact about a mm below the head surface. Is it worth trying easyouts, or just remove the head and go straight to engineering co ? If so does anyone have an idea of cost per stud as I'm thinking it maybe easier to get sh head ?
Thanks
Broken exhaust studs x4
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Grrrmachine
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You can try easy-outs, but you'll need to do as much prep-work as you can first to loosen the remnants. Of course, soak the studs with penetrating oil for about a week beforehand, but another trick is to use heat and wax.
Lay the head on its side so that the broken studs are pointing upwards. Then use a plumber's blowtorch to warm up the stud and the surrounding metal. You don't have to get it white-hot, but get a decent amount of heat in and then press a standard white candle into the stud; the wax should melt and penetrate into the threads, just like penetrating oil.
Do that a few times and then try your easy-outs.
Lay the head on its side so that the broken studs are pointing upwards. Then use a plumber's blowtorch to warm up the stud and the surrounding metal. You don't have to get it white-hot, but get a decent amount of heat in and then press a standard white candle into the stud; the wax should melt and penetrate into the threads, just like penetrating oil.
Do that a few times and then try your easy-outs.
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aimlessrock
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Ian, take them to the machine shop..a bunch of my studds snapped on my merc 190 head and the engine shop removed them for about £20.00 all in...
E30 320i Convertible (1989)
190 Mercedes (1988)
"there is nothing more expensive than a cheap E30"
190 Mercedes (1988)
"there is nothing more expensive than a cheap E30"
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rix313
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Is there any thread left sticking out you can get two nuts onto? If there is then find a blow torch, get it stinking hot and you might be able to free them this way. If this doesn't work or there is no thread, you can get sets with left handed drill bits and screw in extractors that again, with some heat should solve your problem. If these two options aren't possible then as mentioned above your local friendly machine shop should be happy to help.
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Ianb
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Thanks guys, My decision's been made as there's a really pitted area at teh back of teh head where the heater stub has been leaking so it will really need ally welding and grinding flat so i may as well get the machine shop to do the studs while the head's with them. Interesting point from Grr about the candle wax though.