Mortonic 1.0

[DOPE51]

Hello! Please, help!
I have the E30 M20B20, Motronic 1.0 Basic 027
My car starts only with the temperature sensor off for the ECU and operates on a very rich mixture of fuel and air.
If I connect the plug to the temperature sensor, the machine stalls. If I start the car with the temperature sensor connected, it will raise the engine speed to 2000 rpm for a second and stall.

I replaced the temperature sensor for the ECU, the temperature sensor on the dashboard, the crankshaft sensor, the speed sensor, the idle speed regulator, the air flow sensor. I checked the wires on the coolant sensor-all right.

[Speedtouch]

Welcome to the Zone! Are you sure you haven't accidentally swapped over the connectors to the blue and brown temperature sensors on the thermostat housing? These sensors have very different resistances and operating ranges.

What do you mean by 'Basic 027'? A Bosch 0 261 200 027 ECU is intended for a 325e, which is a very different engine to the M20B20.

What is the actual part number of the ECU, e.g., 0 261 200 ---, and age/year of your car ?

This list details the ones fitted to the various ages of 320i:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/ECU

[DOPE51]

Good afternoon!
Yes, quite right, I have M20B20 with installed hinged M20B27, ECU 0 261 200 027,
The connectors of the temperature sensors are not confused, they have different number of contacts)

By VIN My Car 325e,02/87
The m20B20 engine was installed by the previous owner

[Brianmoooore]

You can't just throw in an engine with completely different characteristics and a different capacity, and expect it to work properly on the original management.
What age is the M20B20? These changed greatly throughout their production run.
What is the AFM from? What pressure is the FPR?

[DOPE51]

You can't just throw in an engine with completely different characteristics and a different capacity, and expect it to work properly on the original management.
What age is the M20B20? These changed greatly throughout their production run.
What is the AFM from? What pressure is the FPR?

do not know the age of M20B20

My AFM - 0 280 202 091 Bosch
Fuel pressure 2,5 bar

[Brianmoooore]

FPR is correct, but unfortunately the AFM is one for a 325e.
From our OP I suspect the engine is a facelift one, so you're going to need a 2.0 litre AFM and ideally a facelift M20B20 ECU and matching engine loom to get this running right.
Does your idle control valve have a three pin plug?

[Speedtouch]

Quite amazing that it runs at all!

[fixedwheelnut]

If you still have a problem after fitting the correct AFM check the round wiring plug under the inlet manifold for corrosion that can throw up various temp sensor resistance faults.

[Brianmoooore]

If you still have a problem after fitting the correct AFM check the round wiring plug under the inlet manifold for corrosion that can throw up various temp sensor resistance faults.

He'll need to actually fit the loom with the wiring plug in question and its associated ECU first!

[Speedtouch]

I would be more inclined to refit an M20B27 and enjoy the far superior torque (and probably, fuel economy) over the M20B20!

BTW, a 325e of that vintage will have Motronic 1.0 Basic, the very first incarnation of the legendary Motronic.

[DOPE51]

If you still have a problem after fitting the correct AFM check the round wiring plug under the inlet manifold for corrosion that can throw up various temp sensor resistance faults.

unfortunately I did not find any connector under the intake manifold-just a wiring harness in the factory braid ...

[Brianmoooore]

If you still have a problem after fitting the correct AFM check the round wiring plug under the inlet manifold for corrosion that can throw up various temp sensor resistance faults.

unfortunately I did not find any connector under the intake manifold-just a wiring harness in the factory braid ...

You won't until you fit the correct wiring harness for your engine.

[DOPE51]

I shall describe a little more

the last owner bought a car with a motor in the trunk) he did not understand the BMW but was able to assemble the engine, even started it a couple of times but there was a problem with idling, then this car was bought by me. When buying an AFM was from the M30, the ICV from the M50 and it's bad , but it worked.
I replaced all the sensors with the correct ones from 325e, and the machine started up-it has a stable idling, it drives. But only with the blue temperature sensor turned off. After 3000rpm, smoke black and the machine jerks. The fuel mixes with the oil.
Then I learned the motor m20b20 later..

Now I'm having a problem with the flywheel, in a couple of days I'm going to do a temperature sensor.

P.S. sorry for my English

[DOPE51]

If you still have a problem after fitting the correct AFM check the round wiring plug under the inlet manifold for corrosion that can throw up various temp sensor resistance faults.

unfortunately I did not find any connector under the intake manifold-just a wiring harness in the factory braid ...

You won't until you fit the correct wiring harness for your engine.

the wiring is Motronik 1.0, that's for sure, I have 4 sensors on the thermostat case

[Speedtouch]

Wonder what happened to the original M20B27 eta engine? They are normally pretty bullet-proof sloggers, tuned for economy and low-speed torque, so unlikely to be thrashed.

What is your engine code and number (stamped on a machined flat to the right of the inlet side engine mount, just above the block:sump interface)?

[DOPE51]

what happened to the factory engine we will never know.
tomorrow I will photograph the engine number

on the Internet I came across several cases where the symptoms were like my car, on different engines - M10, M40, M20 and the saddest thing is that no one has solved this problem ... either the topics on the forum were unanswered, or people did SWAP