Newbie alert - Advice wanted on 325i purchase

[Cjjp]

Hello everyone,

I have been after a 325 for years now and have finally (hopefully) decided to jump in before prices get too silly, i have found a 325i for sale (links below) and was just after some advice from the pros aha
I have done a fair bit of research and obviously rust seems to be the main thing with these cars and scares the life out of me and something im trying to avoid.

https://www.stonecoldclassics.com/1990-bmw-325i-sport/



But yeh, was just wondering if anyone knows any history about the car or if it was a members on here, the dealer has told me it has had a full respray and has had welding done on the bulk head and floors in 2007 and 2010, if these points have gone are the other danger zones likely to be affected? if its had a respray are they likely to have sorted all the rust and hopefully it was kept garaged after?

just after some information / advice / history on the car or things to watch out for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated in any form to be honest as im by no means an expert

Thanks guys

[Bonymaenjack]

Hello everyone,

I have been after a 325 for years now and have finally (hopefully) decided to jump in before prices get too silly, i have found a 325i for sale (links below) and was just after some advice from the pros aha
I have done a fair bit of research and obviously rust seems to be the main thing with these cars and scares the life out of me and something im trying to avoid.

https://www.stonecoldclassics.com/1990-bmw-325i-sport/



But yeh, was just wondering if anyone knows any history about the car or if it was a members on here, the dealer has told me it has had a full respray and has had welding done on the bulk head and floors in 2007 and 2010, if these points have gone are the other danger zones likely to be affected? if its had a respray are they likely to have sorted all the rust and hopefully it was kept garaged after?

just after some information / advice / history on the car or things to watch out for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated in any form to be honest as im by no means an expert

Thanks guys

Have a look at this : Type in the reg and it should give you an overview of the condition and how its been maintained, does look nice though
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/?_ ... 1585735201

[flybynite]

It looks good and nothing in the MOT history rings alarm bells to me but it is very top end money for a non M3 or Alpina E30.

Some bits, although desirable (like the back seats if they are genuine) are not original. If originality matters to you then I would be tempted to check the VIN number to see what it had from the factory and what has been added.

Other than that it needs a look underneath for rust in the floorpan, footwells inner rear wings, battery tray, scuttles and maybe boot floor.

The body is easy to check for hidden rust or filler with a magnet in a cloth. Get used to the force needed to pick it off known good metal. If it is less or does not stick at all it needs closer inspection.

Unfortunately plastic panels like the Tech 2 sport kit are good at hiding rot. and not easy to check behind.

[Cloggy Saint]

25K, and you want to get in before prices get silly? I'm pretty sure you could get something similar for 8-10 grand less, unless I'm completely out of touch.

[JungleGus]

It's very very strong money...scarily looks very similar to my car, got a bit of a surprise at first.

It looks to have a BTB manifold (good) and the seats look nice. It's not ultra low mileage so I think it's priced right up there....but with so few transactions taking place it's tough to value them.

Rust really is the number one thing here - all the places mentioned above should be rust free for a car of that money IMO.

[tha881]

Here you go mate, seems the pics are still working too. Think he sold for 12k a few years back

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=259507&hilit=Recaro+btb

[flybynite]

Here you go mate, seems the pics are still working too. Think he sold for 12k a few years back

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=259507&hilit=Recaro+btb

Good find

Oh and look into the sunroof cavity with a torch!

[ah]

I know you’ve proberly checked it out but,make sure it’s a GENUINE SPORT,be aware there are some good copies out there.If in dought get the vin number and go and see a main BMW dealer or look on line,It looks a nice car but for that sort of money I would want lower mileage than it’s got and full BMW service history etc,good luck.

[Cricket]

Hi All,
Cricket here from the US. ('87 325i convertible...stock). The most expensive non-M I could find in recent sales over here went for $31,000 (about 25,000 sterling) . Looks to have been extensively worked over, including a transmission swap.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992- ... briolet-9/
Seems as though even non-M cars in decent shape are able to get relatively serious money...but...welding and so forth on this one? And the re-spray? Hmmm.
Cheers,
C

[Brianmoooore]

This appears to be far from an all original, unmolested car, but does appear to have had extensive work which has been done properly: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=259507&p=2870857#p2870857

[ocde30]

Very good looking car - no doubt about it. For that money I would inspect it VERY carefully and thoroughly. I am no expert but I think that if the easily visible areas of finish are a bit dodgy then what about the bits you can't see? The ad shows inside the fuel filler for some reason ?? - it looks very bodged. I've put up a shot of mine as a comparison to show how it should look. At that money be very sure you know what is behind the cladding. It might be fantastic after all. Good luck.

[Dlb26]

Surely that's a rust spot?
Is the bonnet alignment quite right also. It's definitely out on the older zone pictures.
Picking but at 25k you need to.

[Cjjp]

It looks good and nothing in the MOT history rings alarm bells to me but it is very top end money for a non M3 or Alpina E30.

Some bits, although desirable (like the back seats if they are genuine) are not original. If originality matters to you then I would be tempted to check the VIN number to see what it had from the factory and what has been added.

Other than that it needs a look underneath for rust in the floorpan, footwells inner rear wings, battery tray, scuttles and maybe boot floor.

The body is easy to check for hidden rust or filler with a magnet in a cloth. Get used to the force needed to pick it off known good metal. If it is less or does not stick at all it needs closer inspection.

Unfortunately plastic panels like the Tech 2 sport kit are good at hiding rot. and not easy to check behind.

Well the thing that drew me in was the fact I thought it was original, and finding it had a respray def took the shine off, hence I was willing to pay the premium but reading the answers to this I think it’s a nice car but just not worth the very high price?

[Cjjp]

Surely that's a rust spot?
Is the bonnet alignment quite right also. It's definitely out on the older zone pictures.
Picking but at 25k you need to.

Again I completely agree, like since doing some searches on other cars that have sold for this price they have been almost concours, again seems like a nice car but just not worth that kind of premium is the vibe I’m getting?

[Cjjp]

Very good looking car - no doubt about it. For that money I would inspect it VERY carefully and thoroughly. I am no expert but I think that if the easily visible areas of finish are a bit dodgy then what about the bits you can't see? The ad shows inside the fuel filler for some reason ?? - it looks very bodged. I've put up a shot of mine as a comparison to show how it should look. At that money be very sure you know what is behind the cladding. It might be fantastic after all. Good luck.
Fuel_flap.jpg

Yeh thank you for the comparison, that looks like a world of difference when looking at those two! Again like the other have said and reading the replies it seems like it’s a premium considering it’s not fully original

[Cjjp]

Hey guys, just want to say thanks for all the helpful replies, first time posting in this forum and really appreciate the helpful words And advice

Seems to be the same repeating story as it’s priced a bit to strong for the condition and mileage and what’s been done considering it’s not original...
I’d be willing to be around that for a car that was more original and a more documented history, also asked the dealer if the timing chain (I’m assuming chain) and water pump had been done recently due to the mileage And there was no documented history of that and for a 25k car you’d hope it would of been cared for and documented more maybe?

Is 25k around the top price for a real original rist free example would people say then and any guesses or estimates on where people wokld price this example?

Again thanks guys! Really positive experience!

[JungleGus]

M20's had a timing belt - and you've summarised it above well.

Having said all that - it could sell for £25K, all depends on what someone is wiling and able to pay. It's a nice car, and there's not a lot of them in that condition that I see for sale. So it's tough to say what it'll sell for.

Knowing what I've spent on mine....I would pay £15K all day, probably up to £20K if I really wanted one. But I am not that fussed about originality (the BTB is a great addition - although it would be nice to see the proper hose clip for the radiator hose against the lifting mount at the front of the engine rather than a zip tie). My main issue, is that it appears a "Classic car dealer" has got their hands on it and probably marked it up £5-10K.

If you're buying it because you want it and plan to keep for a looong time then £25K is possibly do-able if you have the spare cash. Running them is pretty cheap (even more so if you can do it yourself) and it'll be a nice drive.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[flybynite]

With the benefit of hindsight of the picture thread it is easier but bits like that fuel filler will be all over it given the amount cut out of it which would ring alarm bells on a close inspection.

That shell has had a fair bit of trauma in places difficult to fully protect a repair

so unless you have a photographic documentation of each stage of each repair you cannot tell if it has been done properly.

Welding metal back in place is one thing, killing the surrounding rust and protecting the welded repair for the future is another necessary and often-missed stage.

Too many times in the past I have had to cut out much further because a welded patch done by someone else and not finished properly had rusted from the weld causing an even bigger problem.

I am giving it the benefit of the doubt by saying if it has not come through in 5 years it is not too bad but it has not done much mileage and may have been kept in ideal conditions.

Not the type of car I go for but I think no more than 10-15K of anybody's money depending on very close inspection.

Have a good read of the wiki here before you look at the car as asking about the timing chain will let the seller know you don't really know what you are looking at