What basic upgrades for a track day 325i?
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pmann
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I'm thinking about picking up a standard 325i (1985) with M-tec sports suspension and cobra evolution seat fitted, as there's a local seller with one in excellent nick at a good price.
What would this be like as a track day car? Are there any essential (preferably not too costly!) upgrades that people would recommend for using it as a track day car?
Cheers!
What would this be like as a track day car? Are there any essential (preferably not too costly!) upgrades that people would recommend for using it as a track day car?
Cheers!
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Silverfang
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My list of mods would be the following..
> Braided Brake lines (£53 from the E30 shop)
> ATE superblue fluid (£17 online)
> Optional: Ferrodo front and rear pads ( £176.86 - E30 shop)
> Powerflex subframe bushes (£50.67 - E30 Shop)
> Powerflex Diff Mount bush (£20.00 - E30 shop)
> Powerflex M3 front lower wishbone bushes (£35.62 - E30 shop)
This plus a decent service ( oil, filters, plugs, Cambelt and waterpump if required, fresh coolant) should get a 325i in a decent state to go on trackdays in a regular basis without breaking the bank
> Braided Brake lines (£53 from the E30 shop)
> ATE superblue fluid (£17 online)
> Optional: Ferrodo front and rear pads ( £176.86 - E30 shop)
> Powerflex subframe bushes (£50.67 - E30 Shop)
> Powerflex Diff Mount bush (£20.00 - E30 shop)
> Powerflex M3 front lower wishbone bushes (£35.62 - E30 shop)
This plus a decent service ( oil, filters, plugs, Cambelt and waterpump if required, fresh coolant) should get a 325i in a decent state to go on trackdays in a regular basis without breaking the bank
BMW and Opel, both RWD, both german, both good fun
http://www.clockservicing.co.uk/ For any clock repairs try here.
http://www.clockservicing.co.uk/ For any clock repairs try here.
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UweM3
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If you are on a budget, you can use new M3 bushes and fill the gaps with Sicaflex or any other solid silicone (windscreen bond etc)Silverfang wrote:My list of mods would be the following..
> Braided Brake lines (£53 from the E30 shop)
> ATE superblue fluid (£17 online)
> Optional: Ferrodo front and rear pads ( £176.86 - E30 shop)
> Powerflex subframe bushes (£50.67 - E30 Shop)
> Powerflex Diff Mount bush (£20.00 - E30 shop)
> Powerflex M3 front lower wishbone bushes (£35.62 - E30 shop)
This plus a decent service ( oil, filters, plugs, Cambelt and waterpump if required, fresh coolant) should get a 325i in a decent state to go on trackdays in a regular basis without breaking the bank
I am not a great fan of Ferodo pads (DS2500) and would recommend Pagid Blue. I know, it's an expensive pad but will last a very long time and not crumble to pieces like the Ferodo's do when they are half down.
A good brake colling duct is not a bad idea either. But you need to feed the air to the centre of the disk, not just into the wheel well.
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pdd144c
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Same as above really, although I'd go for Mintex pads, 1155 or 1166, AP 551 fluid (only £7-8 a bottle) Powerflex bushes are great too. Spring rates may also want changing, may well be too soft for the track.
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chrisr29
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Add to the above a decent set of tyres that wont melt after a couple of laps or offer zero grip should the weather turn nasty.
Also, give the car a thorough check over. Paying extra attention to cooling and fuel sytems. All it takes is one split hose or failed jubilee clip to ruin your day.
Also, give the car a thorough check over. Paying extra attention to cooling and fuel sytems. All it takes is one split hose or failed jubilee clip to ruin your day.
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ScottEgg
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buy it, drive it , enjoy it first. Then start thinking about moding it. You won't be disapointed, I did exactly that. Drove Donnington with just some green stuff pads and it was ace. Obvioulsy would be better with new tyres, new adjustable suspension, new cage, new seats, new box, new exhaust, new engine etc etc etc.
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BILTEL
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I aggree. I've been doing approx 8 trackdays a year, for the last 9 years and seen far too many people getting hung up on modifying their car. They end up bored and skint before they've got to a trackday. You'll also come home after a trackday with your own list of things you want to change.ScottEgg wrote:buy it, drive it , enjoy it first. Then start thinking about moding it. You won't be disapointed, I did exactly that. Drove Donnington with just some green stuff pads and it was ace. Obvioulsy would be better with new tyres, new adjustable suspension, new cage, new seats, new box, new exhaust, new engine etc etc etc.
Be warned though. There are rumours of some new safety rulles next year. The main one being. If you haven't got a rollcage fitted, you can't use harness' and the bucket seats with the big ears. This is because too many people are getting serious injuries when the uncaged car tips over. With normal seats and belts the driver has a chance of ducking or being moved around in the accident. Where as with harness' or the above bucket seat, your'e held in place to take the tarmac in the face.
www.classictouringcars.co.uk
#20 Pre 93's
BMW 535i E28 race car
RWD is for heros, 4WD is for zeros, FWD is for Tescos
#20 Pre 93's
BMW 535i E28 race car
RWD is for heros, 4WD is for zeros, FWD is for Tescos
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northloop
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Interesting comment BILTEL.
Tell me where these TOO MANY people are? I'm under the impression that a rolled car at a track day is a rarity. A rolled car with big eared seats, harness and no cage must be very very very rare?
I do however agree with the principle. I think too many people buy harnesses to make their cars look like race cars rather than for the correctly thought out reason.
Tell me where these TOO MANY people are? I'm under the impression that a rolled car at a track day is a rarity. A rolled car with big eared seats, harness and no cage must be very very very rare?
I do however agree with the principle. I think too many people buy harnesses to make their cars look like race cars rather than for the correctly thought out reason.
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Cabrio
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Depends on your budget, but go out do a track day or two then get info from the other guys doing events who are not making money from you and do bits as you go along...its easy to spend £1000s and take 12 months to do the work and then no track days are done...but if things need doing eg brakes then upgrade the hoses and pads (lots of choices from different places) then upgrade as you get quicker...but dont go too quick at first...advice is free but remember different people give different advice so make your decision carefully, and cheapest is not best always cheers
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BILTEL
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Isn't one too many?
This came from a friend who organises a lot of trackdays. He told me it came up in a meeting with other organisers. He mentioned it whilst talking about another mates crash at Castle Coombe last week. I admit that was in a race, but he was very lucky.
I'd never really thought of it before, but it's fairly obvious isn't it. You are a sitting duck.
Harness' and big eared seats without a cage is rare? Take a look in a lot of the cars cruising around McDonalds on a Saturday night. Don't tell me some of those don't end up on there roof. Yes there on the road, but there are still plenty of people doing trackdays with harness' and no cage. Wouldn't a CGlock be a better option if you're on a budget or don't want to ruin a nice roadcar by fitting a cage. That's without your premiums going up when you mention cage of course.
This came from a friend who organises a lot of trackdays. He told me it came up in a meeting with other organisers. He mentioned it whilst talking about another mates crash at Castle Coombe last week. I admit that was in a race, but he was very lucky.
I'd never really thought of it before, but it's fairly obvious isn't it. You are a sitting duck.
Harness' and big eared seats without a cage is rare? Take a look in a lot of the cars cruising around McDonalds on a Saturday night. Don't tell me some of those don't end up on there roof. Yes there on the road, but there are still plenty of people doing trackdays with harness' and no cage. Wouldn't a CGlock be a better option if you're on a budget or don't want to ruin a nice roadcar by fitting a cage. That's without your premiums going up when you mention cage of course.
www.classictouringcars.co.uk
#20 Pre 93's
BMW 535i E28 race car
RWD is for heros, 4WD is for zeros, FWD is for Tescos
#20 Pre 93's
BMW 535i E28 race car
RWD is for heros, 4WD is for zeros, FWD is for Tescos
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JimmyC
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Sorry but that has to be cobblers, you can see it now "lets stop people adding in safety features to there car"
Its like saying no helmet without adequate hans device fitted, and so it would go on and on
Your safer with harnesses and an eared seat, the guy at coombe would have been alot better off with an eared seat- did you see how much his head moved
If anyone thinks your going to be able to duck in a big impact, then they are nuts, sorry but it wont happen, and if you "duck" think of where your putting you head- steering wheel implant anyone?
Anyway back to the main post:
Save all your money on mods, and get some instruction, it will make you quicker than any upgrade!
All that i'd recommend doing to the car, belt/oil service, change brake fluid unless you know how long its been in there, and check your pads (maybe upgrade them)
You can have plenty of fun in a boggy car
Its like saying no helmet without adequate hans device fitted, and so it would go on and on
Your safer with harnesses and an eared seat, the guy at coombe would have been alot better off with an eared seat- did you see how much his head moved
If anyone thinks your going to be able to duck in a big impact, then they are nuts, sorry but it wont happen, and if you "duck" think of where your putting you head- steering wheel implant anyone?
Anyway back to the main post:
Save all your money on mods, and get some instruction, it will make you quicker than any upgrade!
All that i'd recommend doing to the car, belt/oil service, change brake fluid unless you know how long its been in there, and check your pads (maybe upgrade them)
You can have plenty of fun in a boggy car
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UweM3
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i can't find the vid from th edutch guy how went over the Armco in Bruennchen in a E36 M3. the thing was FLAT from A to C Pillar.
I have seen quite a few cars in the Ring carpark with 4 belt harnesses fitted to the 1.5mm tick parcel shelf.
Another questionable thing is to fit the eyebolts for the shoulder straps back down on the rear seat bench OEM belt points.
So if you fit "safety" equipment, do it right! I rather have a tested 3 point OEM seat belt than a 4 point wrongly fitted harness. Just my 2p
I have seen quite a few cars in the Ring carpark with 4 belt harnesses fitted to the 1.5mm tick parcel shelf.
Another questionable thing is to fit the eyebolts for the shoulder straps back down on the rear seat bench OEM belt points.
So if you fit "safety" equipment, do it right! I rather have a tested 3 point OEM seat belt than a 4 point wrongly fitted harness. Just my 2p
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Cabrio
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Uwe...got to agree if you are going to do it you have to do it right...thats why some people buy BMWs and not other makes 
Good cages have harness bars, good harnesses come with plates with the eye bolts...re the parcel shelf people look at the old touring cars and see how they were mounted but the shell is different (can talk for hours on this one)
Take Jimmys advice and then if you want to do more then spend wiesly to fit what you want to achieve and stay safe...but remember you get what you pay for and you may well drive more carefully without all the bits initially and then you will learn properly ...I hope
Good cages have harness bars, good harnesses come with plates with the eye bolts...re the parcel shelf people look at the old touring cars and see how they were mounted but the shell is different (can talk for hours on this one)
Take Jimmys advice and then if you want to do more then spend wiesly to fit what you want to achieve and stay safe...but remember you get what you pay for and you may well drive more carefully without all the bits initially and then you will learn properly ...I hope
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fastdiablo
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Cant agree more . . .JimmyC wrote: Save all your money on mods, and get some instruction, it will make you quicker than any upgrade!
All that i'd recommend doing to the car, belt/oil service, change brake fluid unless you know how long its been in there, and check your pads (maybe upgrade them)
You can have plenty of fun in a boggy car
I've not done any track days in the car yet but have done about 12 on the bike this year. I spent the start of the year doing 3 of the 4 levels of a track school. Its not cheap but to put it into context is cheaper than some engine mods and much cheaper than lobbing it, LOL . . .
I'm now riding with the quick boys in the fast group and loving it . . . although I still get dusted by the racers. It would take more than just upgrades to beat those guys
I reject your idea of reality and replace it with my own
. . .


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Lloydie38
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When I first got the car I took it on the track on 14" rims, standard spongy suspension, old tyres, no LSD...and in the wet - Great fun
Slowly took advice from the Zone and a local independant BMW garage and that's been the best way and the most enjoyable in my opinion.
Got some instruction from a track action instructor, then a Rally guy and that helped me improve but could do with a full day on a track being taught and pushed.
Also best mod was to loose the weight out of the car , carpets seats etc.
Good luck - ace to hear more track day E30's being made

Slowly took advice from the Zone and a local independant BMW garage and that's been the best way and the most enjoyable in my opinion.
Got some instruction from a track action instructor, then a Rally guy and that helped me improve but could do with a full day on a track being taught and pushed.
Also best mod was to loose the weight out of the car , carpets seats etc.
Good luck - ace to hear more track day E30's being made
The Isle of Man: No National Speed Limit, No Gatso's, No Nanny State, a disused airfield track 1.5 miles long, the best mountain road to drive on...Come and Play!
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northloop
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and the cheapest mod tooLloydie38 wrote:
Also best mod was to loose the weight out of the car , carpets seats etc.
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JimmyC
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Totally agree, its scary some of the stuff you see, especially harnesses as cabrio says.UweM3 wrote:
So if you fit "safety" equipment, do it right!
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Cabrio
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Jimmy
Speak soon...can you send me the calender for your race series next year as fancy popping along to one or two
Cheers
Speak soon...can you send me the calender for your race series next year as fancy popping along to one or two
Cheers
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JimmyC
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Just getting the calendar sorted at the moment, so not dates as yet
Will get them over as soon as we have them
Will get them over as soon as we have them
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daveyc
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Good cages have harness bars, good harnesses come with plates with the eye bolts...re the parcel shelf people look at the old touring cars and see how they were mounted but the shell is different (can talk for hours on this one)
please do!
I have a track 325 with cage harness and race seat. Just wondering about my mounting points, I used existing seat belt holes plus nut plates is this secure enough?
please do!
I have a track 325 with cage harness and race seat. Just wondering about my mounting points, I used existing seat belt holes plus nut plates is this secure enough?
87 325i for the track
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UweM3
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hard to tell without a picture. I am not a seat belt engineer and can only rely on information gathered. My harness (schroth) came with a CD showing do's and don'tsdaveyc wrote:Good cages have harness bars, good harnesses come with plates with the eye bolts...re the parcel shelf people look at the old touring cars and see how they were mounted but the shell is different (can talk for hours on this one)
please do!
I have a track 325 with cage harness and race seat. Just wondering about my mounting points, I used existing seat belt holes plus nut plates is this secure enough?
I.E. you belts are supposed to go over your bones, not over soft tissue only (i.e. hips)
Or do not fit the shoulder belts on the rear bottom OEM selt belt points unless you have an approved seat for this tyoe of installation. The 45deg angled belt will crush your spine on a frontal impact with a normal seat just collapsing (if you hit something fast enough)
Crotch belts should be angled backwards 20deg max.
Just imagine what you belt would try to do if you have an impact and you body is moving forward. draw imaginery lines in your head.
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agreen
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should be as high up on the rear panel as pos as i understand
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UweM3
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It shouldn't be on the rear panel at all. Unless you have beefed it up seriously.agreen wrote:should be as high up on the rear panel as pos as i understand
I have searched a few times but can't find it. I have seen a "harness bar"
which uses the OEM belt points as mounting points and provides safe fitting for the shoulder straps even without a cage.
Edit
googled a found this:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/wm.p ... barevo.jpg
and this
http://features.evolutionm.net/imageview.php?image=1150
Last edited by UweM3 on Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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agreen
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sd cages come with a harness bar an there is a pic on there websie
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JimmyC
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Totally agree, rear shelf and OEM mounts for harness are not good enought, you'd be safe with the 3 point beltUweM3 wrote:It shouldn't be on the rear panel at all. Unless you have beefed it up seriously.agreen wrote:should be as high up on the rear panel as pos as i understand
I have searched a few times but can't find it. I have seen a "harness bar"
which uses the OEM belt points as mounting points and provides safe fitting for the shoulder straps even without a cage.
Edit
googled a found this:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/wm.p ... barevo.jpg
and this
http://features.evolutionm.net/imageview.php?image=1150
Like the harness bars above, not seem them before
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northloop
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My belt isn't fitted yet, but you can see where it's going to go on this picture.


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agreen
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me neither as i said i am tolod by the guy who i am ordering my sd cage from that it has a ahrnss bar already so we will see
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JimmyC
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when connectimg the belts you should double back through the buckle to help stop slipping if you ever need to use them
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Cabrio
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As stated before depends what you want to achieve and the money you want to spend and what events you want to do...some might say what cost your life...but thats a tad strong if you are doing track days
Yes SD cage is excellent construction for most purposes and is an excellent fit...comes powder coats and easy for most people to fit...and could be removed even after an accident
Oh and yes has different option cages including X and harness bars as per SELOC and rally challenge cages
Hope that helps
Yes SD cage is excellent construction for most purposes and is an excellent fit...comes powder coats and easy for most people to fit...and could be removed even after an accident
Oh and yes has different option cages including X and harness bars as per SELOC and rally challenge cages
Hope that helps
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agreen
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pics would help more i can get them to come up on here from the sd website
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Cabrio
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would like to help as have pics but dont know how to load...will try and find you a link to post with pics
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agreen
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use photbucket or just put the links up here matey cheers lok forward to it i would do it but kike i say cant upload at the mo for some reason
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Cabrio
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easier if you pm your email address if that helps or on the zone Zaust and Kos have SD cages in their cars with X rear and harness bars
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daveyc
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ok, i need to have a better look @ the set up on mine. cheers for all the info. 
87 325i for the track
