Going down...

All the info you need to race E30's

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handpaper
E30 Zone Regular
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Location: Newport, South Wales

Fri Aug 24, 2018 8:31 pm

Getting the front of an e30 properly low isn't too hard, adjustable coilovers will do most of the work and flat top mounts will complete it (and get you some of your suspension travel back).

The rear, however, is a different matter. Even with GAZ rear coilovers wound down as far as sensible, mine sat far too high.

First 'solution', quick and dirty : move the top mounts to above the shell.

From this :

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To this :

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Using these bits :

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Here's what it looks like from inside :

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Moving the top mount like this drops the car about 13mm; later I put some spacers under the mount, increasing the drop to 20mm.

Still not enough.

A proper roll cage was on the agenda, so I took the opportunity to perform a little surgery on the shell :

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This raised the top mounting points 60mm above their standard position. Suspension travel was now limited by the wheel touching the arch, by the rear spring perches touching, and by the ARB drop link hitting the underside of the car.
Careful work with hammer and block made space under the arches without much external evidence, but the rear spring perches had to come off :

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The chassis is complete without the perch, removing it doesn't introduce weakness. Cleaning off the underseal reveals the spot welds, they're easily drilled out.

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If the chassis doesn't need a spring perch, neither does the trailing arm. Spot welds not so easily found on this part, holes needed welding up afterward.

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Also visible in this pic is the replacement, shorter arb drop link. It's for the Z3, pushes on/bolts in. And doesn't foul the body.

Here are the results, this is max droop :

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And max bump. The springs have been removed and the car is being supported by the bumpstop. Wheels rotate freely.

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The rear springs (225 lb/in) have a static sag of around 2", so I'm looking to run about 50mm lower than the max droop picture.
Bloody thing will probably be too low now...
DanThe
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Sun Aug 26, 2018 9:50 am

Now try that with a 235/40/17 :-x :-x
handpaper
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Mon Aug 27, 2018 3:04 pm

There's 20mm between the rim and strut, so with a little more offset a 205 or 215 will fit, but 235 is a bit too much.
Most of the time I'll hopefully be using slicks, which in 15" are usually 19/57 and will give even more clearance - as well as lowering the car another few mm.
DanThe
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Tue Aug 28, 2018 7:19 pm

I ended up cutting the inner arch outer lip off to get the 17's under
handpaper
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Sun Sep 02, 2018 6:32 pm

Here's how she's sitting now; the front can go down another 25mm, the rear another 50mm at least. I'll have to raise the splitter if I do, there's only 40mm under it at the moment. At Pembrey yesterday it was touching down regularly when 30mm high.

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rix313
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Thu Sep 13, 2018 1:07 pm

Genuine question. Why do you possibly want that much compression on the rear suspension?
milescook
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Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:10 pm

rix313 wrote:Genuine question. Why do you possibly want that much compression on the rear suspension?
My understanding was he wouldn't, but just in case it bottomed out it shows there's enough room?

I'm only up the road from you handpaper if you want to look at a gaz setup. It's not going to be the best but has served me okay this year racing.
The story so far... http://www.cookracing.co.uk/

Also please help the race budget by watching some videos :) https://www.youtube.com/cookracinguk
SlipnGripRoss
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Thu Nov 22, 2018 9:48 am

This is my rear ride height with Gaz Golds with plenty of adjustment left. Don't really need to go lower than that.
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