Harness Bar

[Andye]

I've just had a mate of mine make me up a removeable (bar itself), wheel arch brackets are permanently bolted in place, harness bar so that I can run harnesses without a rollcage and this mounts the harness at a better level / angle than bolting to the floor.



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He said that he could make up some others if there was interest, all of the plates and brackets are laser cut and they don't have to be removeable bars if you don't want and if you've gt harnesses that loop around a bar the you won't need the eye brackets either.





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Kit comes with all the brackets and bolts included.

Andy 07866 256713

[UweM3]

Not a bad approach. But why the fuss with the eyebolt brakects?
A simple threaded welded-in insert as per the blue book would not put any "turning" forces on the bar and would be a more cost effective way to make the bar.
Not trying to knock the effort, just trying to throw some constructive criticismn in.

Deffo a much better solution than the usual eyebolt-on-the-parcel-shelf-with-a-thin-plate-behind solution

[agent006]

That looks quite interesing. Could you/he give an indication on how much it would cost?

[Andye]

Cheers Uwe, yeah perhaps the eye bolt brackets are a bit over engineered but it is strong! Not sure on price to be honest but with the raw materials and the hardware that goes with it about £50/60 plus postage? Mine was £50 as a one-off / favour so for his time laser cutting and welding on additional ones then it would probably be a litle more. I'll ask him for a price if there is interest. Cheers for the comments.

[UweM3]

Andye, what size and material of tubing is he using?
Would you mind posting a detail shot of the fitting on the wheel arch?

[Screacher]

I'm hoping that's a temporary seat, as fitting a harness to a seat not designed to use them can cause the seat back to collapse.

[Andye]

Uwe, I'll get some measurements and better photos, yes it's a temporary seat to line everything up, I've got a Recaro SPG for track days.

[JonBetts]

Hi guys, tube used is 32mm CDS and all plates are 3mm laser cut. The finished bars either removable as in Andys application or fixed will be 60.00 for forum members plus postage. I can do brackets for bolt on as in this pictures, tubed to bolt through the bar or guides for wrap around. There are three M10 fixings at either end with sandwich plates to go on the underside of the wheel arch again in 3mm laser cut steel and all fixings are included. If anyone is interested you can email me direct on jonmbetts@aol.com, or I will be putting some on ebay shortly at a slightly higher price.

[Andye]

A picture of the brackets and plates used, they just bolt through the wheel arcg where a cage foot would normally go. Cheers



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The washer has a pin in it so that it doesn't vibrate / rattle as my bar is removeable to there is some slack. In a fixed and fully welded bar then you wouldn't need this. Let me know if there is any interest as Jon is happy to to a deal for zoners.

[UweM3]

what is that disk with the pin for?
Is the bar just inserted into the hole in the bracket and "floats"?

[JonBetts]

There is a similar disc with pin welded to one end of the bar which locates in one bracket. At the the other end the disc is used as a large washer to sit between the bracket and the locking pin, the small locating pin is to just stop it rattling or moving on the bar. This is the first removable one I have done, all others are fixed and welded to the brackets at each end. Was more a one off for Andy but happy to do more removable ones if the need is there. HTH

[UweM3]

There is a similar disc with pin welded to one end of the bar which locates in one bracket. At the the other end the disc is used as a large washer to sit between the bracket and the locking pin, the small locating pin is to just stop it rattling or moving on the bar. This is the first removable one I have done, all others are fixed and welded to the brackets at each end. Was more a one off for Andy but happy to do more removable ones if the need is there. HTH

as I said, not knocking your work.
I still believe you could make live for yourself much more easy if you forget about the welded on eyebolt brackets and just insert a threaded sleeve at the right angle. The line of force would be much more straight.

And why does it need to be removable? Everything which can be removed seems like a another opportunity to cause trouble in the moment of the "event"

safety is paramount and I admire that you have the guts to offer such a device. I the past I have toyed many times to make some proper harness bars but the probability that I make something which can compromise the live and safety of others have stopped me.

You never know how sturdy something is till you break it!

[GeoffBob]

Andye,

My sincerest apologies for knocking your efforts (it's really not my intention to p!ss on anyone’s battery), but why on God's green earth would you want to operate a harness without a cage, or at the very least a roll-bar?

If you were to ever seriously roll your car, causing the roof to stove in, a harness will hold your torso rigidly in place with your head on the end like a lollipop on the end of a stick, just begging for the roof to push your helmeted head hard down onto the top of your spine, potentially causing serious injury! Without a cage your head is literally a fixed target waiting for the roof to stove in on top of it.

Sorry to sound so negative, but I offer you this criticism in the interests of safety first. Nothing wrong with your harness bar, but you need a cage to go with it!

Regards
Geoff

[cragles]

I agree with GeoffBob, admire what you are doing, but if you are going to be using a solid race seat and harness, without a cage, a roll in the car would be dangerous. Standard car seats have some "give" should the car roll, allowing your body to move down a bit in the car.

The other advantage of a rollcage, apart from safety is that it will make the car stiffer and handle better