Does anyone know of a supplier for complete braided lines for the E30? (i.e. complete lengths straight through from cylinder to calipers.)
Thanks.
Braided brake lines.
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fuzzy
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demon tweeks supply the hose in lengths with whatever fittings on the end you require.
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E30BeemerLad
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You are still better off using hard lines from the master cylinder to the wheel house and then braided lines to the calipers. Believe it or not, braided hoses do still expand slightly, so running from the master cylinder to the caliper with braided will cause a slightly spongy pedal.
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rix313
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Yes Goodridge and Earls both do a full kit for the E30.
Avoid Demon Tweeks they mark up like mad!
EDIT: I assumed you meant from hardline to caliper not the whole lot.
Avoid Demon Tweeks they mark up like mad!
EDIT: I assumed you meant from hardline to caliper not the whole lot.
Last edited by rix313 on Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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UweM3
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second that. What's wrong with the hardlines?E30BeemerLad wrote:You are still better off using hard lines from the master cylinder to the wheel house and then braided lines to the calipers. Believe it or not, braided hoses do still expand slightly, so running from the master cylinder to the caliper with braided will cause a slightly spongy pedal.
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selawman
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Prepping for stage rallying and need to put new lines inside the car. Did it with my last two rally cars but were Pug 205's & managed to source full braided...this is my first E30.UweM3 wrote:second that. What's wrong with the hardlines?E30BeemerLad wrote:You are still better off using hard lines from the master cylinder to the wheel house and then braided lines to the calipers. Believe it or not, braided hoses do still expand slightly, so running from the master cylinder to the caliper with braided will cause a slightly spongy pedal.
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djs325
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You'll need to go custom. May I suggest that you buy some male to male adaptors for the master cylinder, they'll need to be long to actually get down to the flange inside the outlet port. You can then run AN3 size couplings off the master cylinder, and run a single line down to the rear axle, with a t-piece off to each rear wheel. Run M10-AN3 male-male adaptors in the calipers as well.
I would also suggest that while you are fiddling with the fluid lines that you replace the master cylinder with the 25mm version from the E32 750i pre 1988. Better pedal response, and you'll have peace of mind that the MC is in good nick. Details:
BMW pn 34311156643
ATE pn 02.2125-2802.3
FTE pn H25914.0.1
I would also suggest that while you are fiddling with the fluid lines that you replace the master cylinder with the 25mm version from the E32 750i pre 1988. Better pedal response, and you'll have peace of mind that the MC is in good nick. Details:
BMW pn 34311156643
ATE pn 02.2125-2802.3
FTE pn H25914.0.1
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N00b
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Any mods needed, or does this master cylinder just bolt up as the original one does?djs325 wrote:I would also suggest that while you are fiddling with the fluid lines that you replace the master cylinder with the 25mm version from the E32 750i pre 1988. Better pedal response, and you'll have peace of mind that the MC is in good nick. Details:
BMW pn 34311156643
ATE pn 02.2125-2802.3
FTE pn H25914.0.1
BTW what are the FTE and ATE codes??? I'm assuming the first one is the BMW part code for the master cylinder?
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djs325
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FTE and ATE are OEM parts manufacturers for BMW. If you order the OEM part, you might need to double check the ATE/FT part number. Some cross references are wrong!
THe master cylinder, provided it is from a pre 1988 not post 1988 E32 750i, will bolt up exactly the same. It does, however, only have a single output for the front axle, and a single output for the rear axle. The front output is at the front of the master cylinder and the rear output at the rear. Most E30 master cylinders that I have seen have 2 outputs at the front for the front axle. You would need to get a t-piece made up, but considering that you've committed to replacing all the lines anyway, not really an issue.
THe master cylinder, provided it is from a pre 1988 not post 1988 E32 750i, will bolt up exactly the same. It does, however, only have a single output for the front axle, and a single output for the rear axle. The front output is at the front of the master cylinder and the rear output at the rear. Most E30 master cylinders that I have seen have 2 outputs at the front for the front axle. You would need to get a t-piece made up, but considering that you've committed to replacing all the lines anyway, not really an issue.
E30racing.com.au - Like Production BMW Cup, but upside down!
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Theo
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Rally Design will make you up braided hoses with various types of fittings.
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UweM3
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still can't see why you need braided all the way. Ok, they are much more easy to route along the inside but a hardline is for sure cheaper?selawman wrote:Prepping for stage rallying and need to put new lines inside the car. Did it with my last two rally cars but were Pug 205's & managed to source full braided...this is my first E30.UweM3 wrote:second that. What's wrong with the hardlines?E30BeemerLad wrote:You are still better off using hard lines from the master cylinder to the wheel house and then braided lines to the calipers. Believe it or not, braided hoses do still expand slightly, so running from the master cylinder to the caliper with braided will cause a slightly spongy pedal.
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selawman
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Reason I installed full braided the first time was that MSA regs say that all fluid lines inside car have to be covered, so if you use hard lines then you still have the hassle of sleeving them. Braided lines already covered!
