LSD Units - Ask me anything.

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Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:31 pm

Demlotcrew wrote:I believe you can buy them from ZF directly. I have a stock one going spare if you're interested?

Sadly it won't work with a stock 2 clutch LSD as its been shaved down.
I have the same problem, and would like a replacement top cap (skimmed or not doesnt bother me).

Will
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Demlotcrew
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:36 pm

I can source a BMW MS top cap which will handle circa 1000hp for £249.00

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Andrew
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 1:07 pm

That is useful to know for our other cars/diffs, but this is just a potential spare lsd if I could get a cap for sensible money.

Will
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Demlotcrew
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 1:57 pm

I will have a look to see if I have one spare. What would you be willing to spend? I dont really want to split a good LSD just for its cap.

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Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:17 pm

Understood, I wouldnt expect a good unit to be split, but if there is a spare piece from a damaged diff, it would be worth selling !

I would think £40 ?
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:44 pm

I will have a look this evening, but I think I only have one complete LSD left now.

Andrew
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:05 pm

Thanks :)
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Demlotcrew
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:21 pm

If this cap is for the Harris turd, then the price is double! :P
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Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:39 pm

hahah

No, its just a damaged lsd which is laying around the workshop. Thought I could make use of it.

The harris car plays hell with peoples OCD :mad:
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Sat Oct 05, 2013 1:40 pm

Martin347 wrote:
MillRat wrote:A question; the "percentage lock" is not an accurate method to describe the amount of resistance as "percentage lock" relates to the engine power/torque. Therefore, isn't stating the breakaway torque a better measurement?

I ask this because as I understand it, 70% lock equals a breakaway torque of something like 120 ft lbf (160 Nm) and is thus 70 percent of the engine torque (160-170 ft lbf or 220-230Nm for a standard 325i). If I was to build a much more torquey M20 (or use another more torquey motor), the "percentage lock" becomes some smaller number (depending on the torque of the new engine that is). One would then think that the 2 LSD's are different as the % lock values would be different, when in fact they are exactly the same LSD. Therefore, to accurately compare one LSD to another, the breakaway torque should be stated instead.

As I said above, this is my understanding.
Interesting post. I have never heard of the % lock being worked out like this before. Its a shame the post hasn't been answered. I have allways wondered exactly how it is measured, preload is simple but % lock is more tricky.
It's the dynamic locking torque between the output shafts as a percentage of the torque applied to the LSD spool itself. As you add more power, the diff locks up harder. Hence it's not locked solid at low throttle loadings but will lock up when you give it 'the beans'. Self regulating if you like :)
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Sat Oct 05, 2013 6:55 pm

Thanks for the reply Gareth. So millrats post is right then? Is there a way of actually measuring it? I would presume you would have to put a given amount of torque into the diff and somehow rig a torque meter up to the output shafts.
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Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:10 pm

I have stripped down two 188mm l.s.d's and neither has had the 4mm spacer. I am guessing that these diffs cannot run a 4 clutch setup ?

:-(

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Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:25 pm

It all depends on the stack height, you may find there is a washer in there at the bottom (other end from the crown gear) they do get stuck down with oil vacuum.

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Mon Oct 07, 2013 2:53 pm

Ahhh yes, it was just stuck :o:

Thanks !
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Mon Oct 07, 2013 3:15 pm

Martin347 wrote:
MillRat wrote:A question; the "percentage lock" is not an accurate method to describe the amount of resistance as "percentage lock" relates to the engine power/torque. Therefore, isn't stating the breakaway torque a better measurement?

I ask this because as I understand it, 70% lock equals a breakaway torque of something like 120 ft lbf (160 Nm) and is thus 70 percent of the engine torque (160-170 ft lbf or 220-230Nm for a standard 325i). If I was to build a much more torquey M20 (or use another more torquey motor), the "percentage lock" becomes some smaller number (depending on the torque of the new engine that is). One would then think that the 2 LSD's are different as the % lock values would be different, when in fact they are exactly the same LSD. Therefore, to accurately compare one LSD to another, the breakaway torque should be stated instead.

As I said above, this is my understanding.
Interesting post. I have never heard of the % lock being worked out like this before. Its a shame the post hasn't been answered. I have allways wondered exactly how it is measured, preload is simple but % lock is more tricky.
Breakway torque has so many data variables:- tyre compound, road surface, suspension geometry, weather conditions, mechanical downforce etc, it is not common unit of measure.

To accurately compare clutch style LSD'd you generally do so by the minimum torque value required to reach maximum lock for the ramp angles installed. Some also like to know the preload torque (the tiny amount of coupling of both outputs without any input torque).

Then theres the torque values for the three conditional states of the mechanism depending on input and their relative response curves.

1. On power - Accelerating
2. Coasting - Constant speed/out of gear
3. Over run - Liftoff

HTH

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Mon Oct 07, 2013 3:22 pm

Driftnething wrote:Ahhh yes, it was just stuck :o:

Thanks !
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Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:22 pm

Thanks for the reply Andrew. That makes alot of sense.

So if we did want to measure the minimum torque value to reach maximum lock, how would you go about that?

Cheers, Martin.
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Tue Oct 08, 2013 2:15 pm

Now you're asking! 8O

Its not something Ive ever looked in to in great detail, Ill see what I can find out.

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Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:15 pm

Thanks for continuing the discussion on the "breakaway" torque.

Could you not measure the minimum torque required to reach maximum lock by rigidly fixing one of the output shafts and then using a torque wrench (or some tool) to measure the torque at which the remaining output shaft stops rotating independently? A "tighter" diff would require less torque before the two output shafts stopped turning independently ¿no?
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Cheers,
Michael.
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Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:25 pm

Michael, the test you describe realises the preload value.

I would imagine to work out the minimum torque value would require, clutch surface area, coefficient of friction of the clutch material, total number of clutches, ramp angles, planetary pin diameter, gear diameters, oil slip agent value etc.

Andrew
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Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:38 pm

In short, it's near impossible to measure it without a dedicated test rig. The spool would need to be loaded up to various torques, held against the output shafts, then the torque resistance between both shafts measured by independently rotating them... Not an easy task! :D

This is why the lock is expressed simply as a percentage. It's a ratio of applied torque from the prop (or more specifically by the crownwheel onto the spool as the final drive ratio will vary this) to the braking torque between the output shafts. 0% = no lock, 100% = locked solid. 40% will be 40Nm if 100Nm is applied, 400Nm if 1000Nm is applied.

It's like saying: "How tight will this spanner tighten this nut" well it has design limits but at the end of the day it's directly proportional to how hard you pull it :)
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Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:17 pm

gareth wrote:In short, it's near impossible to measure it without a dedicated test rig. The spool would need to be loaded up to various torques, held against the output shafts, then the torque resistance between both shafts measured by independently rotating them... Not an easy task! :D

This is why the lock is expressed simply as a percentage. It's a ratio of applied torque from the prop (or more specifically by the crownwheel onto the spool as the final drive ratio will vary this) to the braking torque between the output shafts. 0% = no lock, 100% = locked solid. 40% will be 40Nm if 100Nm is applied, 400Nm if 1000Nm is applied.

It's like saying: "How tight will this spanner tighten this nut" well it has design limits but at the end of the day it's directly proportional to how hard you pull it :)
Ok, nicely put. Makes it easy to understand what millrat was originally saying about. The more powerful the engine that is driving the diff, the More grip required (I.e friction plates/shallower ramp angles) the diff will need to lock the diff. If you put one of our 188mm diffs in a robin reliant, it would Never get locked, but put it in a 500bhp m3 and it would almost be like a welded diff (on acceleration).
Correct?
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Sun Oct 20, 2013 7:42 pm

bingo :D

add more cornering grip (suspension mods, sticky tyres) and you can then significantly reduce the weight on the inside wheel. less weight = less grip. Then apply power and you'll find the amount of grip on the inner tyre and lock from the differential is not enough to prevent the inside wheel spinning despite the diff doing it's best to stop it. Race like this and it'll handle badly, lack drive out of corners and toast the diff pretty quickly. This is where more lock helps most. The added stability and more predictable handling is a bonus.
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Stevevrs
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Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:24 pm

I have an LSD on my 4 door but the tab is missing, any way i can find out what one i have?

Cheers
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Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:38 pm

Turn the input shaft by hand, counting the number of turns, and compare this with the number of turns the output shafts make.
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Thu Dec 05, 2013 2:06 am

Cheers
:D
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:02 am

Thanks for starting this Demlotcrew. Cool thread! There's some good info here. :)

I have a E36/Z3M/GrpN LSD (which was a nice surprise :D ) sitting on my bench which needs a refresh. It'll have an S62 sitting a few feet in front of it, and be surrounded with E36 HSD coilovers and whiteline ARB's. The car's going to do a few track days, but it'll very much mainly be a road car. I was thinking of new standard BMW plates and perhaps the thicker Porshe dog ear plates, though having had a read through this thread, perhaps standard dog ears would be adequate?

Thanks in advance! 8) Dave. :D
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:59 am

Dave, unless you're drifting the car, stock plates with the cup washers either side will be all you need. Have you considered going up to four clutches?

Andrew
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:10 pm

I popped the diff out and found it looked like this:

Image

Does this look like an OEM 4 clutch unit? My reason for thinking it needed fresh plates was that on the bench it's possible to rotate the output flanges independantly with minimal resistance, but I've read (on the r3vlimited "Mythbusters" thread) that the plates aren't preloaded in these diffs.
With a wheel in the air it acts just like an open diff, it does seem to "lock" like an LSD under load though.
I'll try and grab some time to whip it apart in the next couple of days. 8)

Cheers! Dave. :D
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 2:14 pm

Yes that's almost 100% a one and half way 180mm LSD :)

It has no preload and works on shims, it just might need to be reshimmed, but it might all need new clutches.

Whip the cover off and have a look!
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 3:03 pm

Will look like this once its apart :D

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Mine might see the car one day...
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:19 pm

8)

Image

The dog ears don't appear to have a great deal of wear (which is to be expected?). What do you reckon to the plates? (I made sure to get a nice bit of reflective light on them.):

Image

Here's a more straight on shot:

Image

Thanks again for your input guys! :thumb:

Edited to say: Looking at Dan's plates, mine look goosed! Mine has been apart before though judging by the locktited top plate bolts (which also had allen key witness marks). This might also be a give away that things are not as they started out. It appears to have had a 4:10 in the case originally:

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Tue Dec 10, 2013 5:45 pm

Yes those plates are a little worn, but nothing major! The dog ear's are fine too, the diff peados amongst us would surface grind ears, re-shim with new clutches :)
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:00 pm

Could you do me a favour and take a photo of the pulse disk at the opposite end from the cap. :)
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Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:16 pm

Cheers! I used this company to freshen the faces of my cylinder heads. They do a ton of stuff for a comany I know who build ridiculous bike engines: http://www.precision-lapping.co.uk/
I'm sure they could cope with the dog ears (and may be handy for modding cover plates too) :) Very reasonably priced too.

So what are the best options regarding a fresh set of plates? (Preferably without selling any vital organs! 8O )
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