Are they any good on the front of the tech 2 sport or would i be better rigging up some myself ? what have you guys done ? pics would be good
Thanks
Steve.
Air Ducts
Moderator: martauto
No idea on the tech2 but my SE ducts are fine for running proper ducting. Access is a bit tricky as they really need to go into the engine bay and back out again if you're still running the wheel well liners (which there doesn't really seem a good reason not to). Make sure you don't use ducting with steel hoops as water pools in it and they rust.
-
e301988325i
- E30 Zone Addict

- Posts: 3701
- Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Taunton, Somerset
I've tried a few ducting ideas for road use with little luck TBH. For track just keep all the pipe work underneath the car, using the pipe itself as an inlet underneath the car. Imagine this but without the splitter.


I said:
Can anyone suggest how to test if the boot lights are staying on with the boot shut?
e30topless said:
lock the wife in there
Can anyone suggest how to test if the boot lights are staying on with the boot shut?
e30topless said:
lock the wife in there
- Mikey_Boy
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 996
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:00 pm
- Location: Cheshire - trying to avoid the bling!
+1 
Unless you are endurance racing, I wouldn't duct cold air to the brakes directly - brakes do need some heat to work after all, getting the balance right is the tricky part...
Usual road set up with uprated discs and pads should be plenty for a 20 min squirt on track...
I run standard tech 2 front bumper with 330mm K Sport 8 pots at the front - no issues with overhaeting or fade (but then I might ot be trying hard enough!!)
Unless you are endurance racing, I wouldn't duct cold air to the brakes directly - brakes do need some heat to work after all, getting the balance right is the tricky part...
Usual road set up with uprated discs and pads should be plenty for a 20 min squirt on track...
I run standard tech 2 front bumper with 330mm K Sport 8 pots at the front - no issues with overhaeting or fade (but then I might ot be trying hard enough!!)
My setup - Flexi pipe runs from spotlight ducks in my Alpina splitter. Used a rectangular guttering downpipe joiner for the duct.
For cold weather, we shove a large sponge into the duct.




For cold weather, we shove a large sponge into the duct.





Cheers,
Michael.
Ok so i have done the above with the venting but even on road after some spirited driving up to 4 or 5 round abouts within a 2mile stretch in town they still seem to be over heating(well i think they are !) the pedal still feels ok but im getting a lot of vibration/whoeing type noise with a little vibration through the wheel but only after heavy breaking repeatedly 4 to 5 times within a 2 mile stretch... breaking very hard every now and then dosnt realy cause any problems !!! Is it me ? am i driving too hard on the brakes ? or should i may be look at a caliper up grade ? Im currently running standard calipers with ebc yellows and drilled and groved discs ...
The noise you're getting is normal for grooved discs, but if you're overheating the std size discs / EBC yellows you must be pretty tough on the brakes and the next step would be larger discs really.
The vibration through the wheel might be warped / overheating discs with uneven pad deposits, does the pedal shake/pulse as well?
The vibration through the wheel might be warped / overheating discs with uneven pad deposits, does the pedal shake/pulse as well?
WMS E30 brake kits! (4-pot 280mm & 300mm front / 2-pot 290mm rear)
www.wms-brakes.co.uk / http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=209737
www.wms-brakes.co.uk / http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=209737
Na the discs arnt warped and the pedal dosnt vibrate nor is there any untoward feeling through the steering wheel ... This is the first time I have fitted these types of discs to the car so that makes sense so I think I will be swapping them for smooth discs as Im not happy with the noise realy
Other than that I think your right I will have to keep my eyes open for a well priced brake upgrade 
Maybe the fact that the ducting blows directly onto the inboard face of the disc, and not into the centre vanes.
Thermal expansion will henceforth be difference between the inner and outer disc faces, which can lead to cracking, vibration and warping.
Thermal expansion will henceforth be difference between the inner and outer disc faces, which can lead to cracking, vibration and warping.

-
ross_jsy
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 7307
- Joined: Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:00 pm
- Location: Jersey, C.I.
It sounds to me like you are creating problems that don't exist. As Keri says, the sound is a bi-product of vented discs. Unless there was a noticeable decrease in braking efficiency I wouldn't be worried about it, especially on the road.


