E30 325i Touring + what track preperation = once slick whip?

[RotE30]

Hi all,

The question is what track prep should I do. It is my everyday road car but want to take it to LLandow in April. Servicing so far;

LSD
New bushes all round
New KW 60/40 shocks springs
RPM Sump guard
New 5.1 brake fluid
Oil/filters
All belts & tensioners
Dizzy and sparkplugs
New OEM discs and pads all round

For the day i will remove the heavy spare wheel and maybee the rear seats...

Anything else I could do in prep? I dont want to strip everything and install a cage etc but would be interested in;

what tyre pressures on 205/50/15s & 205/55/15s.
New brake pads?
anything else obvious?

Cheers.

[Black_Potato]

Make sure everything is secure esp the battery

Take a torque wrench and check the wheel nuts before every session

Keep tabs on oil and coolant during the day

If you are hard on the brakes you will overheat road pads, a cheapish upgrade is Mintex 1144 or EBC Red pads and they will be fine in the road as well, there are better track focused pads(Ferrodo, PFC, PAGID RS...) if your willing to pay more.

Tyre pressures.. varies on tyres but you normally want to run around road pressure on track, but the pressure goes up with heat. Most tyres will easly rise by 5-6PSI on trck so if you want 30PSI start at 24-25 PSI. best bet take a pump, guage and see what works best.

Other than that take it easy & get some tuition.

[RotE30]

Awesome thanks for the advice, I think i need to resecure my exhaust backbox really that horrible rubber doughnut, metal strap assembly is on its last legs.
Good shout regarding the torque wrench and trye pressures.
When you come in from the track how long do you have to measure the hot tyre temps before they cool off again?

[MrBenn]

Awesome thanks for the advice, I think i need to resecure my exhaust backbox really that horrible rubber doughnut, metal strap assembly is on its last legs.
Good shout regarding the torque wrench and trye pressures.
When you come in from the track how long do you have to measure the hot tyre temps before they cool off again?

Its normally best to do one cooling down lap at the end of your session and when you pull up in the pits don't pull on the handbrake (if can avoid it) then quickly check your pressures, as most tracks run clockwise your nsf tyre will probably get the most abuse so check that one first and keep an eye on the wear.

[RotE30]

cooling down lap - thats some good advice, I am trying to do as much as i can to avoid really attacking the day, i want to take it easy as i can to save my car.

[Tedswagon]

Its normally best to do one cooling down lap at the end of your session and when you pull up in the pits don't pull on the handbrake (if can avoid it) then quickly check your pressures, as most tracks run clockwise your nsf tyre will probably get the most abuse so check that one first and keep an eye on the wear.

Try doing your cool down lap without touching the brakes. Roll the car into a parking space and switch it off in gear, that avoids pulling on the handbrake.

Put your drivers seat closer to the steering wheel than you would in normal driving conditions. Sit with both your shoulders touching the seat and put your wrist on the top of the steering wheel. You should be able to drop your hand over the top of the wheel.

Enjoy

[MrBenn]

Another thing, if it's open pit lane, keep your sessions to around 15minutes or you will probably overheat something.

[RotE30]

yes, thanks, my biggest concerns are brake fade and overheating.
looking into ebc reds now....

[Mikey_Boy]

Also important for trackdays is to build up your speed slowly when you start a session - tyres and brakes will be cold when you start after a break so if you hammer the car from the start there is risk of warping brake discs, plus the thermal shock to the engine is lower.

'Getting up to speed' over a lap or 2 also allows you to 'tune in' to the relevant speeds of the other folks out there - some will be quicker and some slower!

Also - another great bit of advice someone gave me - if you find yourself in traffic that's a similar speed to you - back off... Saves the 'red mist' coming down and gives you space for you to concentrate on your lines.

Most of all - enjoy!

[RotE30]

red mist- argh......

spaces left if any zoners are interested. 10miles west of cardiff. llandow 2/4/11, £80 open pit lane, full day. awesome atmosphere, went to watch last weekend. its the tracks own day so you get a real mix of cars, last weekend saw a few e36 and e46 m3s, mx5s an ariel atom copy and some supras and a bike engined mini.

I am going with my friend who has a 172 clio cup - we are actually pretty close normally, he should dominate me on the track though, our aim is to stay away from each other for fear of the red mist!

[RotE30]

ebc redstuffs are about £45, anyone got any decent sites or discount codes? cheers.

[RotE30]

Greenstuff Pads - Front DP2779(G) In Stock £13054.84

pretty sure that is a mistake! http://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk

[RotE30]

My car is 60/40 as mentioned, it is low, mistake really looking back. i fitted an RPM sump guard which is pretty solid to be fair.

I am considering these in addition;
http://www.springassisters.co.uk/menu.htm

they stiffen up the suspension and lift the car about 10mm.

probablyt better of just replacing the springs though right? I know Kevo on here knows people that do tarmac rallies with them on and they are a quick 10min job to fit/remove.

[RotE30]

also, brake pads, I have new oem pads fitted, can i get away with only fitting expensive ebc pads at the front and leaving the back oem? thanks.

[MrBenn]

My car is 60/40 as mentioned, it is low, mistake really looking back. i fitted an RPM sump guard which is pretty solid to be fair.

I am considering these in addition;
http://www.springassisters.co.uk/menu.htm

they stiffen up the suspension and lift the car about 10mm.

probablyt better of just replacing the springs though right? I know Kevo on here knows people that do tarmac rallies with them on and they are a quick 10min job to fit/remove.

Lower the better for track use (to a point), I think just change your pads and go try it out, the list of things you could upgrade is endless, but your next step would be track tyres.

[MrBenn]

also, brake pads, I have new oem pads fitted, can i get away with only fitting expensive ebc pads at the front and leaving the back oem? thanks.

The friction material should be matched front and rear, otherwise you might cook the back pads and then the fronts will be working even harder.

[rix313]

My best advice after what every one else has said is to simply have fun, enjoy being on the track and drive within your limits. I get over taken by pretty much everything going on track days but I still have great fun just being able to drive quickly. Better that than peeling the car off of the armco

ebc redstuffs are about £45, anyone got any decent sites or discount codes? cheers.

That's a pretty good price to be fair with delivery.

...but your next step would be track tyres.

If you fancy doing this but like every one else, faint when you see the prices, I bought Toyo T1R's for my track car, 195/50/15's for £30 each with free delivery from Camskill. A decent softish tyre that will do you well on the road too, bargain!

[RotE30]

195s on a 325? I run 205s, I guess unless you are a pro driver you wont miss the extra grip?

[bullwinkle]

What everyone up there said

There really is no need to start stripping/lightening - remove the spare and take some tyre weld just in case. My car has full, standard interior - it helps to remind me that I cant stick it in the barriers or gravel
MrBenn got it right - the upgrade list can be/is never ending!

Looks like you have sorted all the basics so you'll be just fine - I know that all blokes are the 'best drivers in the world' but tuition is worth it's weight in gold and will help you get the best from the day and most importantly, your car.

Let us know how you get on!

[MrBenn]

I get over taken by pretty much everything

Well that's M42's for you!

How you doing Richard? Should have my car ready in about a month, let me know if your doing any track days in the area.
Alex

[MarkT]

Mintex 1155s are also very good pads, but you have to considr your disc's as a srvice item. It might be worth checking your front whel bearings too. I had one go at llandow and had to change it bu the trackside. Killed the whole day off!

It's a great little track and your brakes shouldn't get too harder time, the only really heavy braking you'll do is coming into the bus stop and the nice thing is that if you miss time your braking there's track straight on through the corner. Know a chap with a Vauxhall Nova who brakes in line with the tower.. I really wouldn't try it

[Brian28]

Just something else to throw into the mix. If you are currently on road tyres, I may be inclined to go up rather than down in psi. The touring in road trim is a heavy beast and road tyres aren't designed with stiff sidewalls. About 10 extra psi over road pressures as a starting point will help to keep the sidewalls stiffer rather than having the tyres rolling around like blancmonge (should have said trifle, it's easier to spell ) when you are cornering, or they will overheat and go off in no time.

To repeat what has been said above (can never have it said enough before going on track ) build up to pace slowly rather than going at it like a bull at a gate. And remember that the corners change during the day as your speed and confidence increases. So a corner with a bit of a lift off and easy turn in on your first/second session is likely one where you will have to brake later in the day, due to taking everything else quicker as your speed builds up you will be arriving at the same corner 20mph faster ...

[pony]

I am new to all this.
Why is a cooling down lap necessary over leaving the car stationary? Is it because more air cools the engine and the car by forced convection?
why does the handbrake need to be off on the cooling down lap?

[rix313]

[MrBenn]

[handpaper]

I am new to all this.
Why is a cooling down lap necessary over leaving the car stationary? Is it because more air cools the engine and the car by forced convection?
why does the handbrake need to be off on the cooling down lap?

Heat soak is the reason.
When the car is being driven hard, parts of it will get stinking hot; brakes and exhaust manifold particularly. This isn't a problem, these parts are made to handle this much heat and won't suffer as a result. Air, oil and coolant in their respective places ensure that the other parts stay at sensible temperatures.

When the car stops, however, all these cooling mechanisms stop too, allowing (for example) the red heat of the exhaust manifold to soak into the cylinder head, locally overheating and damaging the oil at least, warping the head at worst.
Likewise, heat from the brake discs can soak into calipers and brake lines no longer cooled by airflow, doing no good to flexi hoses, caliper seals or brake fluid.

A gentle cooldown lap (or two - Llandow is short) allows this heat to be dissipated.

Having the handbrake off while driving is always sensible ; I suspect you meant "Why must I avoid braking?"

Two reasons: if you're not braking, you're not putting heat into the brake discs, allowing them to cool down; if you can't use the brakes then you won't be using much engine power, letting that cool, too.

[pony]

Nice one handpaper. Always good to hear the physics behind it all to help give a deeper understanding of the subject.

So in short cooling down laps help to reduce the thermal stress on components
e.g. exhaust manifold affecting cylinderhead (oil, warping etc), brake disc (affecting calipers, caliper seals, brake hoses and brake fluid), engine cooling the extra air over the engine helps.
how does the extra heat damage the oil does it lose its lubrication and cooling properties?

Oil helps lubrication, cooling and prevents foam building up in the engine, as well as cleaning it.

This sounds dumb so forgive me but whenever a car is stationary the fan switches on even if the car is off and the thermostate detects its too hot is this true?

So if you did leave the car off without a lap it loses the extra cooling due to the air passing over the engine (heat transfer method of convection), oil flowing through the engine to help the cooling a bit therefore there ends up a build up of localised thermal stresses.

[RotE30]

Wow, talk about complicating a simple piece of advice... still I will let you know how I get on, I am going to put my car up on a shaking frame tomorrow as i swear i can hear a loose bush somewhere (not the fun type).
The only poly bush i bought was for the LSD and its buggered, really badesign, so i may have to change that also.