Hydraulic Handbrake

[yeah_mick]

I got one for Christmas and am looking to fit it soon, was wondering if anyone has done one and can give some tips on fitting and a pic of where you've mounted it, as I want to try and not cut too much interior away.

[e21Jason]

Mine is fitted in the same place as stock
jason

[yeah_mick]

im looking at keeping my stock one for mot and as the hydro wont pass, does anybody know the sizes/specs of the connections and pipe?

[Theo]

Not too many options in terms of where to place it, I'd stick it next to the existing handbrake. The handbrake master cylinder will have a 7/16-20 inlet and a 3/8-24 outlet. BMW use M10x1 brake fittings. Rally Design sell all the fittings and hose you need - I would use banjo fittings on the BMW master cylinder and both ports on the handbrake master cylinder and then a female swivel fitting where it connects to the rear line T-piece (with a male-male adpator fitted in the T piece)

So my shopping list would be:

2x M10 or 3/8 banjos (they are the same)
1x M10 banjo bolt
1x 3/8 banjo bolt
4x copper washers for above (they are the same)
1x 7/16 banjo
2x copper washers for above
1x female convex seat swivel
1x M10 convex to m10 convex adaptor
At least 3 metres of braided hose (you need to measure)

You could of course do it all in conventional brake pipe if you prefer!

[yeah_mick]

ive been and bought some copper pipe today from the local motor factors, my plan is to cut the conections off the old pipe and re fit them onto the new pipeing and re do the pipework from the master to the rear t piece. so in theory all i will need is the 2 connectors to fit to the inlet and outlet of the hydo master?

am i being stupid and missing something out here? or is that just a ridiculous idea?

[alan1272]

heres mine, one of the fittings on the cylinder is a funny size, can't remeber what it is though.

[e21Jason]

Most hydralic setups Inc the cheap eBay ones have a connection for the handbrake cables so it is easy to plumb them in the stock location

to cut into the existing brake line you are going to need to rerun the line from the outside to inside the car

Jason

[luxy]

I managed to fit mine by fabricating a bracket to utilize the original handbrake lever and retaining the stock cable operated drum element. I had to cut away some of the surrounding trim (but these are common enough in yards should you ever wish to return to standard) and just brought the rear brake pipe through the floor into the cylinder then out connecting up as standard. Backing off the cable adjuster gives hydraulic operation and MOT time just need readjustment to re-engage!
Luxy

[Dantistas]

who made your hand brake ? is it made of wilwood ?

[yeah_mick]

my gf bought the handbrake from driftworks so as to who makes the lever and bracket i dont know but the cylinder is willwood.

[selawman]

Heres how I did mine, 4mm steel plate fixing, in front and to the right of the gear lever. My hand just drops straight to it to the left of the steering wheel.
Got it from Optimum Balance Products.
Only hassle was moving the indicator stalk to the right of the wheel, but was easy enough and very worth the trouble.

[GuyM]

i've got one fitted next to the handbrake on my track car (it looks just like a normal handbrake but without the end button, not like the long handled ones shown in the picks)I am in Watford, Herts if you want to come over on Sunday (or one eve after work) and look at the whole set up etc you are welcome....i think it sounds similar to luxy's setup.

[turkey]

Do the pipes of the handbrake just T off into the rear brake lines or do you have a run a pipe to the brake master cylinder?

[yeah_mick]

ive got mine done now, fitted it just before new year. ill get some pics up tomorrow.

[selawman]

Do the pipes of the handbrake just T off into the rear brake lines or do you have a run a pipe to the brake master cylinder?

This was installed for stage rallies so new lines had to be run through the interior of the car, so the rear line enters through the bulkhead and into the hydraulic handbrake. Another line then exits the handbrake and can then go to the rear 'T' piece. I've also installed a bias valve to adjust braking pressure to the rears,so had to take the exit pipe from the handbrake and in & out of the bias before going to the 'T'.

[mt1104]

I'm thinking of doing this as well, but am going to keep the existing brake lines in place as I can't be arsed to deal with moving the fuel tank etc.

So I'm thinking of disconnecting the rear line that exits BMW's BPV in the engine bay, connecting some flexi line to the BPV which would go through the bulkhead to the handbrake, then back through the bulkhead and connect to the OEM steel line via some sort of male-male connector.

just need to make sure nothing is above the resivior so bleeding isn't a PITA but in theory it should be fine.

[yeah_mick]

when i fitted mine all i done was cut the rear line under the car and used a joiner like this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-way-female-join ... 1039wt_939

so i could bring the line up into the car, that when into the handbrake then back out again under the rear seats and used another joiner to join it back in again.

[mt1104]

to do that though dont you need to flair the existing pipe, or is that doable with the pipe on the car?

[yeah_mick]

its doable with it on the car, just unclip it from under the car and there is enough movement on it to pull it down low enough to flair it

[luxy]

As yeah-mick said,or as an alternative use 'Swagelok' 3/16" straight through union.
Luxy