I'm looking at potentially buying one of these in the near future because of work commitments etc.
I would be looking at one around 5-6bags which seems to be late high milers or average early facelifts roughly.
Apart from the rear subframe mountings, general suspension items like shocks and ball joints and of course the turbo issue that sometimes is sometimes isnt.. is there anything else to lookout for?
I would like a few select items on the car but I wont buy any old example
e46 320d touring
Moderator: martauto
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Bob_S
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Bollocks to this 24v scrap!
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DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Are these the ones that sh1t the bottom ends out?
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pacerpete
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Are these the ones that ingest lumps of the inlet manifold when the variable inlet tract gubbins poos itself , creating an expensive paperweight ?
These are great cars, when working , but a comprehensive warranty is a must have
These are great cars, when working , but a comprehensive warranty is a must have
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ShepsEvo3
- Master of go faster
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There are cures/preventatives for those inlet problems, but I've not tested to see if they work. But there is lots of stuff on the net about them.
E30 M3 Unichip Alpha N style conversions, this is the ultimate for extracting the best out of your S14 M power car.
Also, Live mapping of your Standard Motronic ECU for optimising all your modifications.
www.sabre-tuning.co.uk
Also, Live mapping of your Standard Motronic ECU for optimising all your modifications.
www.sabre-tuning.co.uk
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Bob_S
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you have such an eliquent way of putting things pete!pacerpete wrote:Are these the ones that ingest lumps of the inlet manifold when the variable inlet tract gubbins poos itself , creating an expensive paperweight ?
These are great cars, when working , but a comprehensive warranty is a must have
I've heard about replacing a couple of items to help prevent it but no actualy proof that it works seems to be luck of the draw kind of
Bollocks to this 24v scrap!
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
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seems to be a case of when it sh!ts itself not if
i'd steer clear bobsleigh
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Andyboy
- Alpina Colada
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Buy one and IMMEDIATELY replace the inlet manifold - either that or get one of the Ebay kits that remove the flaps and blank the holes in the manifold. Also replace the turbo oil feed pipe and the breather. With that done they are okay, but I would still buy a clean 136 bhp car with low miles. They aren't that quick but are more reliable.
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stuartgallafant
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Blanking the flaps in the manifold would be a toilet idea. It would drive like poop. Get one with a full dealer history and before you buy it, note the chassis number down. Take the chassis number to any BMW dealers and ask them for the whole service and warranty claim history. Most dealers will be obliged to help you.
The manifolds are expensive, but if it hasnt been done, its worth doing. I've had a couple apart that are so bad the swirl flap dug itself into the side of the bore and tore the piston to shreds. Also had a few lucky escapes where it had wedged itself between one of the valves and the piston, but I know the repair wasnt cheap!!
As Andy said though, a knew feed pipe and breather is a good idea. Not a difficult or expensive job. And change the oil every 5000 miles if you can afford to. The engine will love you for it.
If its got gadgets on it, make sure they work. Sounds like an obvious comment, but you wont believe the amount of people who fail the MOT because the adjuster in the Xenon headlight doesnt work. Heater resistor packs that control fan speed are problematic, as are door catches and window regulators, but most of these issues happen inside the warranty period.
With the tourings, lift the rear/boot carpets and trims and check for any water ingress. I've had a few that look like a cats jacuzzi in the spare wheel well. And check the rear light bulb holders, as they have an earthing issue. Easily fixable, but you dont want to be spending more money on a car you've just bought. It p!sses you off!!
Also, if its got 18" wheels on it, check the insides of the wheels. I've reported so many cracked and buckled wheels its ridiculous
The manifolds are expensive, but if it hasnt been done, its worth doing. I've had a couple apart that are so bad the swirl flap dug itself into the side of the bore and tore the piston to shreds. Also had a few lucky escapes where it had wedged itself between one of the valves and the piston, but I know the repair wasnt cheap!!
As Andy said though, a knew feed pipe and breather is a good idea. Not a difficult or expensive job. And change the oil every 5000 miles if you can afford to. The engine will love you for it.
If its got gadgets on it, make sure they work. Sounds like an obvious comment, but you wont believe the amount of people who fail the MOT because the adjuster in the Xenon headlight doesnt work. Heater resistor packs that control fan speed are problematic, as are door catches and window regulators, but most of these issues happen inside the warranty period.
With the tourings, lift the rear/boot carpets and trims and check for any water ingress. I've had a few that look like a cats jacuzzi in the spare wheel well. And check the rear light bulb holders, as they have an earthing issue. Easily fixable, but you dont want to be spending more money on a car you've just bought. It p!sses you off!!
Also, if its got 18" wheels on it, check the insides of the wheels. I've reported so many cracked and buckled wheels its ridiculous
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DanThe
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Bob, just stick with the E30 ffs 
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stuartgallafant
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Bob_S
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there comes a point where you find e30's are more annoying than good.. at this moment in time I want a new car.. really I have itchy feet, been 12months since i bought a car so i need something to buy 
Bollocks to this 24v scrap!

