B3 3.2 Touring its suddenly getting old

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Simon13
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:54 am

daimlerman wrote:
Curr946 wrote:4 and a half pages of Barry and Kos arguing... :roll:

personally I think this thread should be cleaned up..
No way!

Leave the two zone post whores to it!

Simon,it's your car,your choice. :mad:
I'm not sure how to take this malco. As much as i'd like to say wind it in, ive been guilty of this sort of bickering in the past and therefore cannot pass judgment.

Barry Kos your both looking like nobbas at the moment. There are no winners just a working B3 with its full 261bhp will be my winner Alpina head or not.

Oh and the car doesn't appear to be in good cosmetic condition it IS in good cosmetic condition!
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:07 am

Si, without wishing to add fuel to this Bonfire of the Vanities :)
why is it imperative that the car should be on the road asap :?:
If I've read this right so far, the car is maybe one of only 5 ever built, and
you have access to an E30 Touring as a daily hack, so what's the rush
:?:
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 10:10 am

gooner1 wrote:Si, without wishing to add fuel to this Bonfire of the Vanities :)
why is it imperative that the car should be on the road asap :?:
If I've read this right so far, the car is maybe one of only 5 ever built, and
you have access to an E30 Touring as a daily hack, so what's the rush
:?:
I think Si's possibly looking to take the c2 off the road this winter to save it further salt exposure? Which is the right thing to do in my opinion as the old turds are thinning out quite a bit now and those that have been properly sorted in the past should be used hard in the summer but IMO, wrapped up in the winter in order that it will be about for the next summer.
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 10:45 am

Epic bitchfest ! :D


PS Nice 'pina Si ! :)
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:08 pm

pacerpete wrote:Epic bitchfest ! :D


PS Nice 'pina Si ! :)
You can't beat a P reg! :D
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:20 pm

Kos wrote:what matters here, it the fact you've gone back on your original thoughts of how to progress with this car insisting you are right. well, that means you were wrong before. a touch of humility would be in order
No, i haven't gone back on anything, what i said was that spending £800 on the head was a bad idea and swapping the engine for a 2.8 was even worse and i stand by those remarks.

Putting the standard head on would cost very little. I suggested to Simon that he go see Ike and see what he will charge.
Kos wrote:as an enthusiast i'd like to be driving my car not thinking when can i pull it apart and do a job i should have done right the first time around, and pull it apart ( a daily driver ) and 'fix' it again
You may be an enthusiast by Simon is very ill and on a whole other level.
Kos wrote:going by your posts here, you pulled the head of the B10 for no good reason. but in fact you did it for the right reasons and what you believe is the right way.
Have a read of those posts again and you'll see the reason why i pulled the head off the B10. A very valid one!
Kos wrote:brakes and a service is easy, a head swap is not an easy job no matter how skilled you are, it is aggro and means his daily car will be off the road for a few days.
A head swap on some engines is a walk in the park and the M52 is fairly straight forward. Brakes and servicing are a nothing jobs, they dont even come into the difficulty scale for a professional or advanced DIY'er.

I'm bored of trying to educate you Kos and im tyred of listening to you trying to psychoanalyse the reasoning behind my posts so for the sake of the thread lets just agree to disagree.
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Simon13
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:43 pm

nice pina hap, he bought a B3 too! lol

Gooner i just want it on the road not festering on the drive under the tree like it is. Also i don't really want to be driving the C2 wagon over the winter for the reasons stated. Its also worth a fair bit more than this B3 i think.

I've got my bronzit for engine running in duties for the 2 door etc but i need something else on the road to use whilst i'm making the bronzit manual and dropping its new donk in and out.

I can only afford 2 sets of insurance, so the C2 comes off the road and the B3 on it for the winter if i can work it this way :mad:
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:57 pm

Understood Simon.
Sort of in the same boat, rent due on both the Cab and the touring
at the end of this month. No where safe to get the Cab Sorn'ed while i
work on it, so have to tax it to keep it legal.
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:09 pm

B7 wrote:
DanThe wrote:Lifetime oil after only 3,000 miles! :eek: :eek: :clin: :clin:

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To be fair dan, if that was after an oil change, that would be mixed with a fair bit of old from the torque converter etc. I considered this when barry did my lifetime change. Should I do it again after say 10k and use the first lot as a flush?
Trev thats out of a box that had only covered 3,000 miles! Manual 6 speed that I fitted to my pina donk!
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Post Sat Nov 19, 2011 10:11 pm

DanThe wrote:
B7 wrote:
DanThe wrote:Lifetime oil after only 3,000 miles! :eek: :eek: :clin: :clin:

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To be fair dan, if that was after an oil change, that would be mixed with a fair bit of old from the torque converter etc. I considered this when barry did my lifetime change. Should I do it again after say 10k and use the first lot as a flush?
Trev thats out of a box that had only covered 3,000 miles! Manual 6 speed that I fitted to my pina donk!

Oooooooooo urgh. That's fooking rancid!
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:56 am

Black oil doesn't mean it's not lubricating. I've seen 300'000 mile ZF autos that still work fine on the factory oil. Doing a full oil change on a high mileage auto is not always good idea as they can whine like a bastard afterwards - a filter change and top up with new oil is as far as you should go. This box will almost certainly be using a Sythetic oil - you'll need to see what it says on the green plastic plug cover but it's either Shell LA2634 or Esso/Mobil LT71141. On a P plate the the Alpina Switchtronic box you have is basically an E39 Steptronic 5HP19 based unit rather than the regular E36 5HP18.

On the green E36 you need to get the arch liners and sill covers off and get in there with some Waxoyl before winter - also the back arches before they start to fester.
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:04 am

Dan, the box clearly had not done 3000 miles :roll:

As well as what Andy had said, i would make sure the rear hard brake lines are very well protected, its a tank off job to replace.
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:55 am

Demlotcrew wrote:Dan, the box clearly had not done 3000 miles :roll:

As well as what Andy had said, i would make sure the rear hard brake lines are very well protected, its a tank off job to replace.
My old dirty six had rotted rear brake lines as ou describe. It didn't take a great deal of brainpower to work out that rerouting the new hard lines would be a world easier than dropping the tank! HTH
I said:

Can anyone suggest how to test if the boot lights are staying on with the boot shut?

e30topless said:

lock the wife in there
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:40 pm

e301988325i wrote:
Demlotcrew wrote:Dan, the box clearly had not done 3000 miles :roll:

As well as what Andy had said, i would make sure the rear hard brake lines are very well protected, its a tank off job to replace.
My old dirty six had rotted rear brake lines as ou describe. It didn't take a great deal of brainpower to work out that rerouting the new hard lines would be a world easier than dropping the tank! HTH
Absolutely, if you are in to nailing things back together then sure, why not. P.s. Ive seen bodges even worse than this.
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:06 pm

i did all the brake lines on my old 328. This car has been flagged up on rear lines and flexis on the last MOT :(

I'm watching a complete rear alxe off an Evo on ebay. Brakes diff the lot. Would a 3.23 diff gear it up too much? it would go like a rocket i expect!

I've taken the front splash guards off and its pretty good in tbh.
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:35 pm

Demlotcrew wrote:Dan, the box clearly had not done 3000 miles :roll:
I had no reason to doubt it, the inside was clean with no clutch dust, everything about the box looked new and still had a shiny finish on the alloy. I assume the new oil is clear? How long does it take to get to that colour?
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:50 pm

Simon13 wrote:i did all the brake lines on my old 328. This car has been flagged up on rear lines and flexis on the last MOT :(

I'm watching a complete rear alxe off an Evo on ebay. Brakes diff the lot. Would a 3.23 diff gear it up too much? it would go like a rocket i expect!

I've taken the front splash guards off and its pretty good in tbh.
It will fit, but the problem is the prop - Evos have a six bolt flange and not a regular E36 four bolt. The Evo diff is also a big Typ 210 unit as well with a different, bigger carrier. It's not really worth the ag. The autos are quite tall geared with the overdrive 5th and lock up converter.
On the arches, get in there with a wire brush and a sharp pointy stick to get all the mud and crap out.
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:37 pm

so really a 328 LSd or a 3.0 M3 one if i really want a slipper. I can't see the 255 rear tyres being too bothered with the power these have tbh
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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:59 pm

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Post Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:54 pm

Best LSD is a 3.15 from a 325i but they are so hard to find. A 328i Sport one will fit but only the early non ASC cars had them. Manuals are 2.93 ratio and autos are 3.07.
A 3.0 M3 (also 3.15) will fit once a four bolt pinion flange has been swapped over. If you've got ASC, it's not really worth the bother tbh.
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:59 am

Simon13 wrote:so really a 328 LSd or a 3.0 M3 one if i really want a slipper. I can't see the 255 rear tyres being too bothered with the power these have tbh
It should be on 245 40's

Some came with 265 35's Michelins but they are NLA (plus they were expensive ) so Alpina recommends 245 40's , same size as the m3 evo
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 3:39 pm

sorry to hijack but how much are the wheels worth off one of these? 8 and 9j 17s right? i've got a set that i might shift, all present and correct, caps, locks etc? again sorry for the mini-hijack si
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:01 pm

I used to enjoy reading this thread until kos and barry started thowing there ego handbags at each other.

Either way, personelly I believe that what barry is suggesting is the way forward. IMO the potential hassle of a 3 times welded head isn't worth it and if I was buying the b3 would prefer a good reworked varient.

To be honest, I dont know either barry or kos, but IMO kos really does come across as a bit of a moron.
Last edited by oldroydsr4 on Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:10 pm

oldroydsr4 wrote:I use to enjoy reading this thread until kos and barry started thowing there ego handbags at each other.

Either way, personelly I believe that what barry is suggesting is the way forward. IMO the potential hassle of a 3 times welded head isn't worth it and if I was buying the b3 would prefer a good reworked varient.

To be honest is dont know either barry or kos, but IMO kos really does come across as a bit of a moron.
a good re worked head is what i suggested if the original head can not be saved

moronic or not, its a better idea than slapping on a stock head.

what ever he decides is up to him, his mind will be made up regardless of what barry or anyone else thinks/suggests he should do. no one is here to score points and be made out to be a hero through being a 'winner' with their idea for simons course of action/choice in which head to use

the discussion between me and barry went OT but, it shows different schools of thought which may or may not help some one else........
Last edited by Kos on Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:22 pm

I feel I need to add this, the route I have taken is because I stripped it did the investigation. The direction I have taken was what I decided not how it's come across on here. Which to an outsider might seem like I'm being spoon fed when asking for advice!

Heads dropped off to Ike today so all good should be a week or two, but before chrimbo result!
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:36 pm

So are you having the Alpina head repaired, ive lost my way on this thread what with all the freindly banter. :cool:
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:38 pm

spook wrote:So are you having the Alpina head repaired, ive lost my way on this thread what with all the freindly banter. :cool:
lol

i think he's having a stock head reworked to replicate the origina alpina head
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:40 pm

Sounds good enough to me :D
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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:41 pm

Can everyone please put their keyboards down, take a few days off and re-read what's been said over the last few pages.

If after a few days of reflection you still feel the same way then you both need to reconsider what this hobby and the Zone is really about.

Everyone doesn't need to see three very active members throwing cheap shots!
:cool:

Any more posts to the same effect will be removed and the thread hidden till i speak with Simon13 on the matter.

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Post Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:01 pm

Wow! :? It all got a bit serious while I was out.
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Post Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:57 am

Nice 'pina Simon :D
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Post Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:56 pm

Cleaned.

I've chosen to keep the previous Bss & Kos comments in as they were arguing over a way of thinking - and that's what forums are for. I have removed a few Kos comments that I felt to be childish, picking on someone's spelling. We will look at what's been cut out and whether it actually is a big deal, later.


Right, go -->
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Post Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:09 pm

Right £350 to do the head work, should be ready end of next week! how exciting but more waiting!
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Post Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:12 pm

Simon13 wrote:Right £350 to do the head work, should be ready end of next week! how exciting but more waiting!
good to hear that you are not planning on ripping it apart in the summer for fun when you have more time
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Post Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:12 pm

which i won't have time.