B3 3.2 Touring its suddenly getting old

[darren_mk]

You could be onto a winner here Simon!-

As said, retest the head, proper gasket, new hoses/rad and away you go!

Fingers crossed for you!

[Simon13]

lets hope it works, some interesting thoughts. Well i did some good DIY bodgery today involving a 5mm allen key looking the crank and 15 1/2 stone of me hanging off a breaker bar getting the crank nose bolt off! And it worked, bent the allen key a litttle but.....

The bigger of the 2 chain guide rails has some wear in it 2 grooves but i'll get some pictures up 2moro to be more clear. I placed the gasket back on the block and turned the donk over by hand, it doesn't touch it. So no contact which looking at the slugs suggests that also.

I think its time to start pricing the new various parts up

[Simon13]

yesterdays bodgery




Crank nose bolt tight? then you need a 5mm long allen key as the crank locking pin! Was strong enough to hold it just with me hanging off a large breaker bar! Bit risky but it worked. I did think if it snaps then its gearbox off to rectify a silly mistake/gamble!!




pulley came off as one? i could swear they should break down a bit? Some minor violence needed? i don't need to split it but it had me stumped a bit






Guide rail has 2 grooves worn into it, worth replacing this? i mean to my eyes the chain and sprockets look to be in good condition with no rounded worn teeth etc. But i have low milege stuff if i need to use it




Well i'm please to say that the compressor isn't seized so maybe a new condensor, dryer and gas and the A/C will go again! So it would be rude not to try to sort it!

[DanThe]

Swap all the guides/chain/sprocket if you have them, you can only do this with the head off so nows the time! That guide will be worse at the bottom by the crank sprocket.
That crank bolt has been out before, they are supposed to be torqued up to 400NM odd, a 5mm allen key shouldnt even get a look in!

[Simon13]

i don't reckon its been off myself i had a loooooong bar and me hainging off it! i thought the allen key would break first

[DanThe]

Im surprised, ive had 8mm bolts poked through the hole and they have bent like buggery, alpina fitters must be lightweights

[Simon13]

It could of been off, but why i don't know. I've only done the nose bolt up on my E30 to 290Nm (my wrench won't go higher!) and its been fine now and not come loose in 25,000 miles with track work thrown in.

Not to say this is ok but i don't think getting it back to 400 odd spot on is going to kill it!

[DanThe]

I wouldnt even attempt it!

[B7]

As long as the Aux fan is free, then I reckon that AC will be sorted with the parts you listed.

My e36 convertible was excellent as was that 97 318 touring I just sold. These are very reliable systems, not like them pony e30 lash ups

[bss325i]

Oi! My system is very reliable!

Those E36 climate panels like to play up.

[B7]

Ask me

Oi! My system is very reliable!

Those E36 climate panels like to play up.

It should do, It's all brand new!!

All later BMW panels play up as I well know I'll bell you later re the idea we had on the 39 binnacle while I'm away

[Andyboy]

The pulley does come apart - you're supposed to remove the six 13mm bolts and take the pulley/damper off. BMW have a special tool that bolts to the pulley hub and rests against the chassis leg whilst you swing on it. You can make one from an old PAS pulley and a bit of 3 inch wide square section tubing welded on. I use Wurth green threadlock and do the bolt up FT. If you want to know what tight is, try an M30 crank nut - fcuk me they're tight. The last one I did would not budge, even with 3/4 drive stuff and a 5 foot long pole. In fear of breaking something, I covered everything up and ground the top off the nut, splitting it with a cold chisel.

Bet you wish you kept the chains/guides from that new 2.0 M50 now......

[DanThe]

3/4 drive is the only way to move FT bolts
One of the mechs at my local dealer told me about an E36 they had bouncing around the workshop with 5 blokes hanging off it

[bss325i]

We have a 3/4" torque wrench for doing crank pulley hub nuts. M47/M57 diesel crank pulleys are dual mass and are common for falling apart.

[Simon13]

The A/C fan isn't seized either!

Well i've found the cracks and repairs...............




Repair on inlet 4






one of the untouched inlets for comparison





repair also on the exhaust side again No.4 i couldnt get a pic of the other normal exhaust ports as they're dirty.


This looks to be a very tricky place to repair a head and be successful? Not for the faint hearted tig welder!


Dan the ECU went off today so should be with you soon i hope!

[DanThe]

They have gone to town with the dremmel on those ports by the look of it, between the valve seat and plug hole is the favourite place for these to crack anyway.

Whens the pressure test booked in for?????!!!!

Any pics of this rad?

[Simon13]

i'll get a pic of the rad 2moro its huge, seems bigger than my rad in my 328i

[bss325i]

No part numbers on it?

[Simon13]

i haven't looked its 'orrible and f**ked.

[DanThe]

Core standard or thicker?

[Simon13]

ok i just looked its identical to an old E30 325i tropical rad i have!

So thats 550mm wide 440mm deep. I bought a new one of these from Euros not too long ago for about £105 for a Nissens one.

[bss325i]

No side tank?

[Simon13]

yeah its a separate expansion tank on the exhaust side rather than the inlet side.

[DanThe]

More likely to be an S50 I reckon

[bss325i]

Just checked the Alpina parts catalogue and it lists a BMW part number which in realoem comes up as,

For vehicles with
NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN
or
National version Auatralia
or
Hot-climate version
L807A=Yes

L810A=Yes

S823A=Yes
01 Radiator A=550MM 1 17111728908 $300.71

[bmwe30mtech]

Nice purchase Si, this will be a nice car again. Great project.

I know Modus well, they are not cheap but their work is excellent. They will not be responsible for any of the bodgery seen here. They are currently doing engine work on my latest project E30, I can ask them about your engine work if you like.

Cheers

[Simon13]

Well i've laid both rads out and they are the same, i'm tempted to chaw the new rad in the C2!!

I've had a rummage and i don't have any guide rails or a spare chain. Are these rails loads of money?

So yes i should of kept the M50 bits but in my defence i wasn't at the time thinking this B3 was going to really end up on my drive!

[DanThe]

The rails are about £80 from BMW IIRC, sure ive had them from ECP in the past for about £20, Febi brand, its worthwhile getting a brand new chain, the plastic on the cam sprocket will tell you how much wear there is

Fit the rad I say

ECU came today BTW

[Andyboy]

Buy the genuine BMW tensioner rail. The Febi ones - believe it or not - aren't that great. The M30 one I had needed a bit of work with a file to get it to fit. You can get a Jwis chain from ECP or GSF - might even come in a Febi box.

[DanThe]

Ever used a plastic M52 febi rail Andy? Ive used 3 or 4 and they have the BMW roundel ground off -



Same part innit

[Andyboy]

Fairy Nuff!

[Simon13]

don't you need to change all the sprockets if renewing the chain?

[pacerpete]

don't you need to change all the sprockets if renewing the chain?

Only if they is 'hooked' innit !

[Simon13]

how you mean Peter? The sprockets don't look rounded down or worn to me on the points but this chain/twin cam lark is all new to me.

[bmwe30mtech]

Rounded sprockets are not worn ones, it's the sharp spikey ones which are worn. If they are too concave on the sides they are worn - but I doubt yours are.