Things to look out for on an E24?

[snowfruit]

I'm considering buying a 635 (E24). Not the M635 as there's no way I could afford one of those.

What things should I be aware of/watch out for on these? Types, specs, rust...?

Are the 625's worth looking at?

[miniblob]

Don't know much about them - but i do know they rust a lot!!!! Especially the wings!!!!!! And i've heard replacements aren't cheap!!!

[bss325i]

There are no such thing as 625's! 628's, 635's and M635's, all are csi's. The most important thing to look for is RUST RUST RUST. This is what kills them and ones a little tatty and bubbly on the outside are usually really bad in the hidden places Front wings are circa £500 each and other body parts arn't cheap. Mechanicals are tough M30 engines will do 200k plus miles if looked after, M635 engines vitaly needs the cam chain changed at 100k if not sooner as a precausion, about £1000-1500 to do. A bill for a complette engine will result if it snaps! Replacement of worn suspension bushes will transform a car (any car) and these are quite heavy on bushes.
As with the rest the same rules apply when buying any car check trim, engine, gearbox, diff etc etc

Very nice cars and one of my favorite no E30 BMW's but i am yet to own one also.

[Davenotouring]

Any signs of bodyshell remaining is a good place to start.

[snowfruit]

sorry, I meant 628. Is it worth looking at the smaller engine or just a waste of time?

[Davenotouring]

Thought that was the smallest engine?

[nr]

I'd take a clean 628 over a rusty 635 any day. It's easier to change the engine if you particularly want a 3.5 than fix the bodywork, and M30s aren't expensive. Early models were based on the E12 chassis, later models on the E28. I think the change happened about 1984 ish.

Rust is the major worry. Wings have already been mentioned. You'll also need to check sills (especially around the jacking points) and rear wheel arches. Also the boot can be a major rust trap. Repair panels for outer sills and rear arches can be had from http://www.wallothnesch.com/e/body/bodye24.htm - in fact, just assume that most of the panels will be rusty. It's easier that way.

The electrics can be a headache, as they've almost certainly been butchered at some point. The batteries on the SI board will probably be knackered by now if they've never been replaced.

If it's got the original metric TRX tyres on, you'll be wanting to budget for new wheels.

And check the wings for rust. Twice.

[bss325i]

I'd take a clean 628 over a rusty 635 any day. It's easier to change the engine if you particularly want a 3.5 than fix the bodywork, and M30s aren't expensive. Early models were based on the E12 chassis, later models on the E28. I think the change happened about 1984 ish.

Rust is the major worry. Wings have already been mentioned. You'll also need to check sills (especially around the jacking points) and rear wheel arches. Also the boot can be a major rust trap. Repair panels for outer sills and rear arches can be had from http://www.wallothnesch.com/e/body/bodye24.htm - in fact, just assume that most of the panels will be rusty. It's easier that way.

The electrics can be a headache, as they've almost certainly been butchered at some point. The batteries on the SI board will probably be knackered by now if they've never been replaced.

If it's got the original metric TRX tyres on, you'll be wanting to budget for new wheels.

And check the wings for rust. Twice.

The chasis change was 1981 along with the introdution of the E28. Bumpers and dials are different along with other detail changes.

[Andyboy]

The change was May 1982. The first 'Series 2' cars were X plate (PJM2X being the first) and they are totally different to the Series 1 cars and nothing swaps over apart from the front and rear screens, bonnet and boot. The main bodyshell is different with a revised floor pan and differeny inner wings, different doors with relocated inner handles, different wings with a fatter arch flare, different front and rear suspensions, brakes, diff, gearbox, all electrical components are different and so are the wheels. British 635CSi Series 2 cars all came on TRX metric wheels.
If you can find a clean 628CSi manual (the autos are turds) for £1500 it's not a bad car but the 3.5 goes a lot better. 628's also generally had velour trim, 14 inch bottetop wheels and no spoilers and look a bit shit as a result. I would avoid the Series 1 cars as they are just terrible rust heaps and some of the technology (twin servo brakes) can be a pain. Mind you, the hydraulic brake booster wasn't a lot better.
Unless you're very lucky, cheap 6 Series are generally rubbish. A lot of pricey ones are rubbish too. Low mileage doesn't make much difference at this stage so a well maintained 150'000 mile example will be as good as one with 70k.

My tip? Buy a Highline. They're a much better car with the E34 engine and they're worth more than the old chrome shitters so are worth ploughing some money into. To be absolutely correct Highlines are big bumper cars with chrome side window trim and the stainless bumpers and dechrome cars are Shadowline. The 628CSi was never made as a Highline with production ending in late 1986 with the last ones wearing D plates. The Highline arrived in late 1987 on the E.

[bss325i]

I did wonder when you would be along andyboy.

[snowfruit]

Is it autos in general that should be avoided or just the 628 ones?

[darkchild]

Is it autos in general that should be avoided or just the 628 ones?

A manual 628i goes reasonably OK but an auto is a bit sluggish (iirc they're only 3 speed). A 635csi auto is a lovely old smoker and a more comment site than a manual.

[nr]

You'll be lucky to find a 635 manual in reasonable condition. Most of them have had the gearboxes robbed to convert the autos that everyone has. A useful 635 manual commands a premium of a couple of hundred quid over the same car with an auto, purely for this reason.

All the 6ers (with the exception of the Alpinas) that I've been in have had auto boxes, and they've all been excellent to drive. To be honest, I think the auto option suits the autobahnstorming nature of the car. They're horrible when they go wrong, but then again, most things on these cars are.

Useful links:
http://www.bigcoupe.com/
http://www.normgrills.net/bcg/
http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/e24.html
http://www.rust.co.uk/home.cfm

[snowfruit]

I like the useful links: http://www.rust.co.uk/home.cfm

[ChrisBarns]

If it helps I had a E28 528i and a 535i. In many ways the 528 was a better engine - smoother, revier, nicer noise, not much slower etc. I guess its the same as smoother 320 vs faster 325. (Still, I prefer my 325i to my 320 even though I know its not so nice!)

[E30zone325I]

Big coupe.com...has a amazing "buyer's guide" written by Roundel magazine's Mike Miller...
Has all you need to know..check it out

[snowfruit]

the E28 and E24 share the same engines I take it?

[Andyboy]

Yep.