Intermittent fault lights - fault codes read
Moderator: martauto
I have recently acquired a 318i and tend to get fault lights on, which ussually go out after a few miles. That's if they decide to go on at all. The three that come on are the ABS, DSC and the brake linings. Now I know the brake linings are due and that one stays on regardless, but any particular reason for the others being on to begin with, then going out after a mile or so?
Would a fault code reader show what caused the light to go on after its gone out?
Thanks in advance for your help
Would a fault code reader show what caused the light to go on after its gone out?
Thanks in advance for your help
Last edited by robbo86 on Fri Dec 04, 2015 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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hennared323i
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How old is your car?
Early E46 have the round OBD port in the engine bay and a normal OBD2 in the drivers footwell above the left foot rest. The internal one will connect to the engine only and the one under the bonnet connects to everything else.
Later (2000/2001 onwards) have one OBD2 port which is under a flap near your right knee (when sitting in the car). There is no need to unscrew anything it literally just clips down.
I have just purchased an OBD2 reader to id why my eml light keeps coming on -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291487890802? ... rmvSB=true
If it works you are welcome to borrow it as I am not far from you.
Early E46 have the round OBD port in the engine bay and a normal OBD2 in the drivers footwell above the left foot rest. The internal one will connect to the engine only and the one under the bonnet connects to everything else.
Later (2000/2001 onwards) have one OBD2 port which is under a flap near your right knee (when sitting in the car). There is no need to unscrew anything it literally just clips down.
I have just purchased an OBD2 reader to id why my eml light keeps coming on -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291487890802? ... rmvSB=true
If it works you are welcome to borrow it as I am not far from you.
- fixedwheelnut
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Willinz and P_Viddy are right, rusty pick up wheels or magnetic swarf stuck to the bearing seal pick up if it has that type are a common cause of intermittent faults with ABS lights coming on, usually once you are up to 30mph+.
The CAN fault is a communication fault between the DME and ABS, check the power supplies and earth's to both control units and the BUS lines between them.
The CAN fault is a communication fault between the DME and ABS, check the power supplies and earth's to both control units and the BUS lines between them.
- fixedwheelnut
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You check bus lines with an Oscilloscope to see if a message is being sent, you can check them with a volt meter and ohm meter but that can involve a lot more work disconnecting all the control units on the circuit.
Velleman do a pocket scope for about £120 worth every penny if you do a lot of electrical diagnosis
Have you checked the sensor wheels to see if they are rusty yet or damaged?
Velleman do a pocket scope for about £120 worth every penny if you do a lot of electrical diagnosis
Have you checked the sensor wheels to see if they are rusty yet or damaged?
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hennared323i
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Brilliant, just brilliant answerfixedwheelnut wrote:You check bus lines with an Oscilloscope to see if a message is being sent, you can check them with a volt meter and ohm meter but that can involve a lot more work disconnecting all the control units on the circuit.
Velleman do a pocket scope for about £120 worth every penny if you do a lot of electrical diagnosis
Have you checked the sensor wheels to see if they are rusty yet or damaged?
Time to get that degree in electronics Robbo
- fixedwheelnut
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Ha, ha sorry some things you can't diagnose over the internet you need to get stuck in there and have a look, I only have two balls and neither are Crystalhennared323i wrote:Brilliant, just brilliant answerfixedwheelnut wrote:You check bus lines with an Oscilloscope to see if a message is being sent, you can check them with a volt meter and ohm meter but that can involve a lot more work disconnecting all the control units on the circuit.
Velleman do a pocket scope for about £120 worth every penny if you do a lot of electrical diagnosis
Have you checked the sensor wheels to see if they are rusty yet or damaged?
Time to get that degree in electronics Robbo
Now have you had a look at those sensor wheels yet to see if they are rusty or damaged, that is the first step and a piece of piss to do
- fixedwheelnut
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OK E46 318i look at this page on Real OEM part 21 is the ABS sensor at the rear, if you look where that part fits in the hub,
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=33_0840
that is where on the drive shaft you should see a toothed wheel, something like this;

If it looks rusty and damaged like the right hand one it could be the problem, quite often as the rust they expand and hit the sensor so you see shiny high spots this damages the sensor as well.
The front sensor wheel is on the inner side of the wheelbearing.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=31_0999
Poor condition one here

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=33_0840
that is where on the drive shaft you should see a toothed wheel, something like this;

If it looks rusty and damaged like the right hand one it could be the problem, quite often as the rust they expand and hit the sensor so you see shiny high spots this damages the sensor as well.
The front sensor wheel is on the inner side of the wheelbearing.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=31_0999
Poor condition one here

- fixedwheelnut
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Got any where checking the sensor wheels yet?


