i've been thinking about the propshaft over the last few days, and after a bit of googling and watching videos on youtube i'd decided to have a go at shortening it myself.
most props (fords etc) are just a tube with a yoke welded in the end. most yokes fit into the tube like a cork into a bottle, and then are welded in place. to shorten it you just grind the weld off, remove the yoke, cut the tube in the new position, make sure everything is square, then weld the yoke back in.
IF the bmw prop was like that it would have been fairly straight forward. i had the front section of the e36 prop in the scrap pile so i decided to disect it to see if it was possible.
it appears that the bmw props aren't constructed like that. to shorten this one it would require sleeving and the chances of getting it right and balanced are minimal with the gear i have. i'm gonna call a couple of prop places in the week to get prices to have it done professionally.
apart from the prop dilemma i finished off the wiring, and with the help of a couple of mates stood by with fire extinguishers, i connected a battery to the cars new wiring for the first time. no smoke, good start.
i wanted to try to start the engine, but with no oil in it and PAS and coolant pipes unconnected this seemed a foolish idea. so i pulled the starter out and attached a jump lead to earth it; the sweet sound of the starter spinning when i turned the key will have to keep me goin for now.
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slowly plodding on with this still, i had hoped it would be ready for the end of may but thats looking highly unlikely now.
with the wiring complete and most of the fab work done (bar the prop) it's time for the engine to come back out!
with the donk back on the deck it's time to rid it of this horrible sprung two-lumps of modern bollocks pig iron.
(right) and replace it with my super-duper 5.6kgs piece of rotating art (left).
but not before a trip to the stealers!
the spigot bearing in the end of the crank also needed to be changed from the 15mm one to the 12mm one. so out came my hugely expensive, precision slide hammer.
old and new.
insert the new bearing using a tool designed specifically for the job.
then bolt the flywheel up using new, shorter bolts and a shim. the clutch and starter are from an m20 engine as well.
i also finally managed to remove the viscous fan which was on tighter than any other i've seen!