I have an M52 engined 320i.
I'd feel more comfortable with the old iron blocked M50.
If I were to fit a Vanos M50b20tu, would all of my M52b20tu ancillaries fit? Say for arguments sake it was a bare engine...
Also would my engine management happily run the M50?
Finally, say I found an M50b25tu...
...could I use my loom, keys, antitheft device etc but fit the 325 ecu and get it to run normally?
Thanks in advance chaps and chapesses.
M50/ M52 question
Moderator: martauto
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First part yes. Second part no, 320 looms/ecu's went through some strange changes unlike the 2.5/2.8 gear, its best to use everything from the engine if your changing to 2.5/2.8
You wouldnt be able to mix the ECU and EWS/key bits either
TBH I couldnt be arsed changing engines to stay with 2 litre, go to 2.8 and get the best of both worlds
You wouldnt be able to mix the ECU and EWS/key bits either
TBH I couldnt be arsed changing engines to stay with 2 litre, go to 2.8 and get the best of both worlds

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If the cooling system is kept in good order, is it really worth worrying about the alloy block?
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NoE30BeemerLad wrote:If the cooling system is kept in good order, is it really worth worrying about the alloy block?

Worry about it if it goes wrong which is highly unlikely if you have had the car a while and done plenty of miles in it already
Thanks fellas.
Basically, I'll hunt a full loom and ecu in order to go a few cc up.
But the M52 stuff would run the M50 if I stay 2litre.
And finally, perhaps the cooling system has not been well kept up to my ownership. I could spend many hundreds getting it to cool well, but what damage could have been done to the fragile M52 before I bought it?
It does some times point over to the red. I can't see a common problem, have repaired leak, all compressions are good, no mayo mixes, yet it still heats up.
Possibly an airlock, but I've followed the proper bleeding procedure.
Basically, I'll hunt a full loom and ecu in order to go a few cc up.
But the M52 stuff would run the M50 if I stay 2litre.
And finally, perhaps the cooling system has not been well kept up to my ownership. I could spend many hundreds getting it to cool well, but what damage could have been done to the fragile M52 before I bought it?
It does some times point over to the red. I can't see a common problem, have repaired leak, all compressions are good, no mayo mixes, yet it still heats up.
Possibly an airlock, but I've followed the proper bleeding procedure.
Be a man for once in your life and sh!t in that boot!- Wilfred.
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Apart from bits of debris getting caught up in the radiator/heater matrix etc the only other thing could be overheating which can crack the head or blow the gasket but you would know about this sooner rather than later.
Do you have any problems?
Do you have any problems?
Well it keeps pointing towards the red.
I shut it down and let it cool.
I'd say debris was the issue if I hadn't taken off the pump and stat housing and flushed before refilling.
The pump has a metal impeller.
The stat housing no longer leaks.
Compressions are fine
I'm beat!
I shut it down and let it cool.
I'd say debris was the issue if I hadn't taken off the pump and stat housing and flushed before refilling.
The pump has a metal impeller.
The stat housing no longer leaks.
Compressions are fine
I'm beat!
Be a man for once in your life and sh!t in that boot!- Wilfred.
Its has a recon rad.
The viscous fan test... an old paper? Surely a knackered viscous link over cools because it goes stiff?
It goes red on a run when I've given it a bit of welly (not a lot though), but no trip longer than ten miles.
The viscous fan test... an old paper? Surely a knackered viscous link over cools because it goes stiff?
It goes red on a run when I've given it a bit of welly (not a lot though), but no trip longer than ten miles.
Be a man for once in your life and sh!t in that boot!- Wilfred.