paint fade red e30 !!

Wed Apr 22, 2009 3:51 pm

Hi my red e30 tourer has pink patches is there any way i could fix the problem long term ? or has it got to go in for a re paint

i only waxed it last week then gave it another wash yesterday now its going pink

Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:15 pm

after polishing use a decent sealant or wax to lock in the shine, and stay away from strong car shampoo as it will strip off any protection that you have put on

Wed Apr 22, 2009 8:19 pm

matt black it

Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:01 pm

e30den wrote:after polishing use a decent sealant or wax to lock in the shine, and stay away from strong car shampoo as it will strip off any protection that you have put on

Thats what ill do this weekend, i let 1 of these car washes do it for £5 and i think they sprayed some thing on it thats removed the polish.

Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:03 pm

E30BeemerLad wrote:matt black it

no no no there is a s2 rs turbo near me thats matt black and it looks crap lol

Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:12 pm

325sideways wrote:
e30den wrote:after polishing use a decent sealant or wax to lock in the shine, and stay away from strong car shampoo as it will strip off any protection that you have put on
Thats what ill do this weekend, i let 1 of these car washes do it for £5 and i think they sprayed some thing on it thats removed the polish.

most probably trf [detergent] not good on single stage red paint.
wash your car your self or leave it dirty until you have time to wash it yourself.

Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:08 pm

T-cut worked for my red one... cam up a treat

Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:33 pm

i paid 100 quid to get my red sport machine polished and i was stunned with the difference my mate took my car into the bodyshop as he works next door to it and he said the fella who done the work to it took over 5hours, best money i have ever spent the car paint was slightly dull but when he was finished it looked amazing.

Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:40 pm

crappy oxiadization (crap spelling lol) ion my old one i copied all the halford boys in there saxo's and got the roof boot and bonnet done (the worse areas)in gloss black the rest i used a 3 stage auto glym set my misses brought although at 50 quid was rather pricy .. personally i never have any car ive had mopped as i hate that swirly paint look ... but it does get the paint up ..

Fri Apr 24, 2009 6:46 pm

nm1 wrote:i paid 100 quid to get my red sport machine polished and i was stunned with the difference my mate took my car into the bodyshop as he works next door to it and he said the fella who done the work to it took over 5hours, best money i have ever spent the car paint was slightly dull but when he was finished it looked amazing.

Geeze he didn't spend long. I've spent over 18hrs on a car before, and I'didn't get it perfect. It was an E39 M5 though.

Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:21 pm

You see too many car washes using TFR, (traffic film remover) all over cars, it makes them look shiny til they dry and then you can see all the protective coats of wax and polishes are gone leaving the paint naked and vulnarable to oxidisation.
If I was you I would polish the car with a good compound on the polishing buff and then wax the life out the car, I recently went over a e36 328 which the owner was considering painting and now it looks as new again with a bit of elbow grease.

Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:18 pm

MR_M wrote:personally i never have any car ive had mopped as i hate that swirly paint look ... but it does get the paint up ..

the person using the mop wants a slap then dont know how to use it right by the sounds of it the only colour i have trouble mopping is black it can take hours to get right any other colour is fine

Fri May 01, 2009 2:19 am

ideally, the best thing to do is mop it i reckon! get someone who knows how to use 1 properly tho!

then wash it once a week, and polish it 1 a month!

Fri May 01, 2009 1:47 pm

G3 is all you need. That what id use anyway then wax it to seal everything.

Fri May 01, 2009 11:22 pm

use g3 first,
then preff; radiant wax autoglym.

Sun May 03, 2009 8:22 pm

best to wax it after you have cleaned the g3 off and then wash it and then wax it again i find on reds just washing them can fade the paint again

Sun May 03, 2009 9:53 pm

Thanks all for the addvice, its been moped before and the paint is thin on some edges so dont want to go through

im going to get some g3 do it by hand then some good wax to seal it, il post some before and after pics when i do it. Many thanks every 1

Mon May 04, 2009 6:01 pm

best way to stop going threw on the edges is tape them up and do them by hand later

Tue May 05, 2009 6:05 pm

Don't use G3, it's too harsh. Use Either Menzerna or 3M. These have deminishing abrasives in them which will help refine the finish. G3 just makes a mess.

Tue May 05, 2009 8:47 pm

ricey46 wrote:Don't use G3, it's too harsh. Use Either Menzerna or 3M. These have deminishing abrasives in them which will help refine the finish. G3 just makes a mess.

Where would i get Either Menzerna or 3M from ? iv used g3 before but that was on a resprayed mk1 gti with good paint on it, i need to take of as little paint as pos if i can ? Cheers dude

Thu May 14, 2009 9:03 pm

325sideways wrote:
ricey46 wrote:Don't use G3, it's too harsh. Use Either Menzerna or 3M. These have deminishing abrasives in them which will help refine the finish. G3 just makes a mess.
Where would i get Either Menzerna or 3M from ? iv used g3 before but that was on a resprayed mk1 gti with good paint on it, i need to take of as little paint as pos if i can ? Cheers dude

Best place for 3M would be here...Clicky

And Menzerna here...Clicky

Make sure you use the right pad for cutting and finishing, Have you used a Rotary before??

Fri May 15, 2009 7:53 pm

MR_M wrote:personally i never have any car ive had mopped as i hate that swirly paint look ... but it does get the paint up ..

I suggest you find someone else to do your machine polishing work, they clearly don't know what they're doing.

In reply to the OP, I think you will find it hard to break down the abbrasives in Menzerna by hand, if it's fairly light oxidation try Autoglym Super Resin Polish, work it really hard, almost until it dissappears, top this off with a wax or sealant, my personal favourite is Zaino, on unlacquered paint go for Z3, it's not cheap but the bottle will last you ages, the wet look shine is amazing too.
Like anything the key is preparation, wash and clay the car first. Finally, don't take your car to cheap crappy car washes, as already stated they ususally cover the car in TFR, this will strip every bit of protection and leave your paint open to the elements.

Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:03 am

We used to use TFR in industrial printing 20 years ago, to clean away ink from the printing plates, and it is still used today.

Sat Dec 12, 2009 11:26 am

slightly o/t, but snow foam is tfr.

whilst ph neutral is nice to have, in winter grime a stronger snow foam (or even a "pure" tfr like ag powermax 3 which does foam thru a foamer) is better.

its all down to dilution ratio and time left to dwell.

Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:54 pm

I aways use turtle wax wash and wax and then auto glym it after and it come out like new every time. But i agree every time you was the colour red it just goes pink lol

Sat Mar 27, 2010 4:09 pm

The (zinnober) paintwork on my car came up fairly well for a t-cut and liberal amounts of Autoglym SRP. The bodykit however, didn't! This is after 2 t-cuts. It looks ok for about half an hour but then dries straight back down to this lovely white finish.

So I decided to have it resprayed.....

But then I was in Halfords stocking up on AG interior shampoo and decided to give their Paint Renovator a go. It's basically graded aluminium oxide powder in polish. Pretty abrasive stuff, but I'd nothing to lose so I thought I'd give it a go. Scrubbed the rear bumper section down with a nail brush and a pretty concentrated solution of car shampoo to strip off any lingering traces (some chance!!) of wax or polish, and gave it a good rinse and then plenty of SRP. No change.

Then I hit it with the Paint Renovator. You have to use plenty of it and just work it in till there's hardly any residue, then buff it off and start again. After every two or three times with the PR I hit it with a coat of SRP to fill in micro-scratches etc. And this was the result....

Note the highly scientific coal sack stand!! The part I'd done there took about 6 hours all in. You need to really give it some elbow grease to lift all the whiteness, but it does work... Still plenty chipped, but probably saveable without a respray and all the colour matching trouble that would entail.

I'm currently letting the other half dry and am about to launch into it with the same treatment. Shall keep you posted!!

Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:02 pm

Where abouts are you? I machine cars in my spare time for about £70 in total as I'm a paint sprayer and have done alot of polishing in my time.

Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:07 am

Graeme_W wrote:Where abouts are you? I machine cars in my spare time for about £70 in total as I'm a paint sprayer and have done alot of polishing in my time.

Ta mate, but where's the job satisfaction for me in that?!

Nah, it's going to be machine polished eventually, but that'll come after a load of other things. Like brakes that work!

Update on the state of that rear kit. Nearly finished now...