with a sutible amp a presion power 1500;1,
i know dark sounds had these for sale, does anyone know if i will need a powercap for this and how would be the best way to wire it
Orion H2s
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chu346
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I got a couple of MMATS 1500wrms amps which draws about 80amps of power each, i've been using one for a while now and it's fine. I don't believe that caps are really needed, a pair of better batteries would be a much better idea.
How much current does yours draw at full power?
BTW i'm selling both of the amps, so if anyone is interested PM me.
How much current does yours draw at full power?
BTW i'm selling both of the amps, so if anyone is interested PM me.
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dark_sounds
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forget the powercap, they do more harm then good,, proven
uprate the wiring between the battery, chassis and alturnator, and bigger battery and you will be fine realistically.
though 1500 watts for 2?? check the coil config and amp stability..
uprate the wiring between the battery, chassis and alturnator, and bigger battery and you will be fine realistically.
though 1500 watts for 2?? check the coil config and amp stability..
Directed CompX's 12"... 2off. 1000 watts RMS, dual 2ohm VC. 90£ each!!
8600 Luna Phone 480 POSTED BNIB
8600 Luna Phone 480 POSTED BNIB
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Chewy2k3
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what sort of bigger battery would i be looking at as for upgrading the wiring what guage would i need to go to
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placey
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chewky
it's literal - measure the battery tray height, width and depth and go and find the biggest battery that will fit in there! diesel batteries are generally better than standard batteries as they have more work to do and generally have a higher current capacity for a longer time. I took a tape measure into halfords and measured them all up....
halfords are not the cheapest batteries but they have a 4 year guarantee scheme - no quibble exchange for a new battery and the 4 years starts again. if you have an install that's hard on batteries the extra initial expanse may well turn out to be worth it. i happened upon this by chance and have not had to spend on a battery since.
if money is not a problem then a gel battery is designed specifically for ice installs e.g yellow tops - but although they will do general daily driver car duties they are really for car park time i.e. they like to deliver a smaller steady current until nearly drained (deep cycle - car park stero use) rather than the short duration high current delivery required for engine starting duties. they are often quite tall so measure carefully!
consider as well uprating the alternator - after all the battery should only really start the engine and the alternator should then provide the current the engine and ancilliaries need, as well as re-charging the battery. (at least that's the theory for a healthy system) so if you only use your system while driving the alternator is a good upgrade path to start along. upgrading the alternator wires at change time is also a good idea, as stated above.
as for gauges - just put a thicker wire from end to end where the original wire started and ended. If a thicker wire is not available, wires can be doubled up. not quite so desirable but effective.
my first install was very hard on alternators - i used to get 3 at a time from a scrappy and carry a spare in the boot. when it started smoking and the red light came on i got out the 13mm spanner and changed it and drove on! i remember one of the scrappy specials only lasted about 10 miles - it was dark and cold too!
paul
it's literal - measure the battery tray height, width and depth and go and find the biggest battery that will fit in there! diesel batteries are generally better than standard batteries as they have more work to do and generally have a higher current capacity for a longer time. I took a tape measure into halfords and measured them all up....
halfords are not the cheapest batteries but they have a 4 year guarantee scheme - no quibble exchange for a new battery and the 4 years starts again. if you have an install that's hard on batteries the extra initial expanse may well turn out to be worth it. i happened upon this by chance and have not had to spend on a battery since.
if money is not a problem then a gel battery is designed specifically for ice installs e.g yellow tops - but although they will do general daily driver car duties they are really for car park time i.e. they like to deliver a smaller steady current until nearly drained (deep cycle - car park stero use) rather than the short duration high current delivery required for engine starting duties. they are often quite tall so measure carefully!
consider as well uprating the alternator - after all the battery should only really start the engine and the alternator should then provide the current the engine and ancilliaries need, as well as re-charging the battery. (at least that's the theory for a healthy system) so if you only use your system while driving the alternator is a good upgrade path to start along. upgrading the alternator wires at change time is also a good idea, as stated above.
as for gauges - just put a thicker wire from end to end where the original wire started and ended. If a thicker wire is not available, wires can be doubled up. not quite so desirable but effective.
my first install was very hard on alternators - i used to get 3 at a time from a scrappy and carry a spare in the boot. when it started smoking and the red light came on i got out the 13mm spanner and changed it and drove on! i remember one of the scrappy specials only lasted about 10 miles - it was dark and cold too!
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....
