Rear Speakers
Moderator: martauto
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Davenotouring
- Married to the E30 Zone
- Posts: 7962
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Cambridge
There is an adaptor you can buy made by Autoleads from most decent car stereo shops.
Costs about 25 quid. Means you don't have to cut the metal though!
Costs about 25 quid. Means you don't have to cut the metal though!
Nissan 200SX S14a - Track Slag
BMW 328i Cab - Daily Slag
they'll fit if you want them to.
options include:
modify your boot lid hinges for gas struts and lose the tension bars that run under the shelf then cut some of the shelf away so they fit nicely.
build the shelf upwards using some mdf so the magnets fit the in 5 1/4 recesses. this is the equivalent of the spacers suggested above.
place them on the shelf unsupported so they move around and sound rubbish. you may laugh but i've seen this more than once.
invert them and screw them to the shelf. requires no cutting but doesn't look the best from inside the cabin unless you're into that sort of thing.
alternaively consider obtaining some replacement rear quarter panels and re-inforce them with mdf and mount them there.
consider also ditching the 6x9 idea altogether and mount 5 1/4 rears and a sub box in the boot firing through your ski hatch/arm rest.
paul
options include:
modify your boot lid hinges for gas struts and lose the tension bars that run under the shelf then cut some of the shelf away so they fit nicely.
build the shelf upwards using some mdf so the magnets fit the in 5 1/4 recesses. this is the equivalent of the spacers suggested above.
place them on the shelf unsupported so they move around and sound rubbish. you may laugh but i've seen this more than once.
invert them and screw them to the shelf. requires no cutting but doesn't look the best from inside the cabin unless you're into that sort of thing.
alternaively consider obtaining some replacement rear quarter panels and re-inforce them with mdf and mount them there.
consider also ditching the 6x9 idea altogether and mount 5 1/4 rears and a sub box in the boot firing through your ski hatch/arm rest.
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
- Posts: 22697
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Camberley, Surrey don't u know
Placey i think i'm going to go 6x9's mate with a sub going through the skit hatch.
I've got a new rear shelf with blind so i'm gonna build and cloth some spacers for them. Then cloth paint the shelf black cos it's stained and a bit mank. I've got a 4 way amp for the speakers so thats all sorted for me.
The bit i need to know is what kind of Amp and sub i'll go with and a bit of dynamat in the right places.
Oh and the MDF trick on the front speakers.
Won't be the best setup but seems good for me!
I've got a new rear shelf with blind so i'm gonna build and cloth some spacers for them. Then cloth paint the shelf black cos it's stained and a bit mank. I've got a 4 way amp for the speakers so thats all sorted for me.
The bit i need to know is what kind of Amp and sub i'll go with and a bit of dynamat in the right places.
Oh and the MDF trick on the front speakers.
Won't be the best setup but seems good for me!
si
i can't remember what you're running in your fronts....
have you read my article on ice in the articles section? it should answer your questions for the fronts pretty comprehensively. what i don't get however is why you've gone for 6x9 for the rears...
if you have a half decent setup in the front and a sub somewhere then the rears are really only for 'fill'. i try not to run anything down coz everything has its place and fans but 6x9s are really a compromise speaker for easy/no sub/budget installs - they try to give everything and master nothing i.e. from highs to bass they most often just make a noise. (that's why no manufacturer has a really expensive/top end 6x9) i really would go for half decent 5 1/4s in the back if you run/keep a sub - it'll sound a lot better and they'll drop straight in without modding your new blind. i know you as well - you're gona want something really quite good in there after you put some effort in.
if you do end up running 6x9s and a sub then you'll have a large 'crossover' area in the bass frequency range - both speakers capable of reproducing the same frequencies - and you'll have to choose which takes which - a waste!
as for subs and amps there's sooo many on the market it's untrue. the jl audio 12w3v2 is an inexpensive sub that'll kick hard for you and will go in a small box - less weight/boot space. check out the jl audio amps too - a nice match. jl audio are geeks too - they give their dealers a big old folder full of box volumes for every sub setup imaginable - optimised for sound quality or volume - your choice. just a suggestion. i know you were sniffing around that jbl sub in a box though.....
helpful? paul
i can't remember what you're running in your fronts....
have you read my article on ice in the articles section? it should answer your questions for the fronts pretty comprehensively. what i don't get however is why you've gone for 6x9 for the rears...
if you have a half decent setup in the front and a sub somewhere then the rears are really only for 'fill'. i try not to run anything down coz everything has its place and fans but 6x9s are really a compromise speaker for easy/no sub/budget installs - they try to give everything and master nothing i.e. from highs to bass they most often just make a noise. (that's why no manufacturer has a really expensive/top end 6x9) i really would go for half decent 5 1/4s in the back if you run/keep a sub - it'll sound a lot better and they'll drop straight in without modding your new blind. i know you as well - you're gona want something really quite good in there after you put some effort in.
if you do end up running 6x9s and a sub then you'll have a large 'crossover' area in the bass frequency range - both speakers capable of reproducing the same frequencies - and you'll have to choose which takes which - a waste!
as for subs and amps there's sooo many on the market it's untrue. the jl audio 12w3v2 is an inexpensive sub that'll kick hard for you and will go in a small box - less weight/boot space. check out the jl audio amps too - a nice match. jl audio are geeks too - they give their dealers a big old folder full of box volumes for every sub setup imaginable - optimised for sound quality or volume - your choice. just a suggestion. i know you were sniffing around that jbl sub in a box though.....
helpful? paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....
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Simon13
- The longest resto in the world !
- Posts: 22697
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Camberley, Surrey don't u know
very helpfu mate, so ill just get some more decent 13cm speakers for the rear, that makes life alot easier and a bit cheaper. I've already got a decent box with a sub in it, i just feel i should replace it with a decent one sub. The one in it is called "power plus" 
It just booms really and not alot else.
Did you dynamat the front part of the inner arch? if you get me, i think alot of road noise is picked up from there
Oh i've got some sony's for the fronts they sounded nice to my ears
It just booms really and not alot else.Did you dynamat the front part of the inner arch? if you get me, i think alot of road noise is picked up from there
Oh i've got some sony's for the fronts they sounded nice to my ears
yes - get as much dynamat on all the arches as possible - they transmit loads of tyre noise. and around where any speakers are too - they're the two most important areas in fact, but not in that order. next would be the front baulkhead....
paul
paul
i saw a doctor and she gave me some pills....
