Lifting an engine out.

[Touring Whore]

My M40 is struggling to keep going now (but has impressed me massively with how badly abused it is yet still going), so I've got to get a shift on with the engine swap. Thing is, I've never done it before and could do with some pointers on how to lift the engine out. Basically, I need tips on how to remove an M40 and an M42 with an engine crane. I'll make a list of my (very basic) questions, and if anyone has anything useful to contribute please feel free to do so. Anyhow...

Where do I attatch the crane to on the engine (M42 and M40)?

What do I need to do from underneath the car? Slave cylinder needs disconnecting, but is there anything else?

Is it just the bonnet that needs removing to make the job easier?

The gearstick...I've got the leather bit off and the handle, but what else needs removing from inside the car?

Unbolting the engine - Do I take the mounts off at the engine or at the subframe, or does it not really matter?

That's all I can think of for now, I'm going to try and get a head start on disconnecting everything tomorrow, and hopefully get the swap done over Monday/Tuesday (my M40 still runs, but only for 10 mins at a time - and I think I'm really pushing my luck taking out for these little journeys).

TIA,

Guy

[rix313]

On the block at the back there is a big hoop, this a lifting point. I'm not sure about the M40's but on the M42 at the front by the inlet manifold there is the other lifting eye.

You will also need to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold (if not already removed). Also the gear stick linkage needs unbolting from the transmission tunnel (on the underside of the car) I think it's one 13mm nut.

Undo the mounts from the subfame not the engine, just easier really.

Take the radiator out to give your self some extra room.

What I found when changing my M42's, is when the engine was up and the gearbox was still in the tunnel, the angle was abit squiffy and it wouldnt come straight out as the sump was hitting the front of the engine bay, we just pushed it to one corner of the engine bay to give it some extra space and lifted it, then when it was clear allowed it back again and poped it out. I may have been the way the crane was set and a few other factors but this is what I found when removing and fitting.

[Touring Whore]

Cheers Rix, that's helped me a lot - I'm just panicking as it's my DD so I'm trying to get as much info as possible beforehand, but you've made it sound easy

[mr_dink]

The m40 has little damper things on the engine mounts as well so remember to undo these before you try to lift it.
m40 and m42 have the same lifting hooks on the rear of the block and the front of the head.
Underneath I'd disconnect the prop and gear linkage and remove the gearbox mount. You can pull it out with the linkage and the front half of the prop attached but if youre doing it on your own you want to make the lift as easy as possible.

[Brianmoooore]

You'd better disconnect the engine to body earth lead as well!
Leave the engine wiring loom in place on the engine. Disconnect it at the C101 20 pin plug next to the fusebox, the earth on the RH strut top, the power feed on the battery + terminal, and at the ECU.
Look up my engine swaps wiring warning sticky at the top of this forum before fitting the new engine!

[eko]

Dont forget the cluctch slave hose too,ive forgot more than once in the past
11mm and 14mm spanners to undo it.
Or you can leave it connected and just unbolt the slave from the side of the gearbox,2 x 13mm nuts.

[maxfield]

Jacking the back of the car up helps too when it comes to lifting it out.

[Touring Whore]

Many thanks all - I'm not feeling great today so rather than freeze in the workshop I've knocked up a checklist of all I need to do to remove the engine. I've put it in chronological order, so if there's any glaring omissions or errors please point them out to me, as once started I'll have no access to E30zone until it's done (well I do on my phone, but it's a bit shitty).

So, the checklist, in all it's glory...

M42/M40 Removal checklist.

1. Remove bonnet and Rad to allow access.
2. Remove power feed to loom (direct from battery +)
3. Remove engine to body earth (RH strut top).
4. Disconnect ECU and push loom through bulkhead into engine bay.
5. Disconnect engine loom at C101 (large round plug/socket near where service lights get reset)
6. Check Pin 20 of C101 at body side - If brown, cut off and make safe. If red/yellow, leave and check engine loom for red/yellow on pin 20, if no wire present connect pin 20 engine loom side to DME relay red/blue.
7. Detatch exhaust system from exhaust manifold.
8a. Disconnect inlet system at airbox.
8b. Disconnect PAS pipes.
8c. Disconnect earth strap from O/S engine mount.
9. Get under car.
10. Diconnect clutch slave cylinder by removing hydraulic hose or removing slave from gearbox.
11. Detatch gear linkage from tunnel
12. Disconnect prop from gearbox
13. Remove gearbox mount
14. If M40, undo dampers on engine mounts.
15. Remove engine mounts at subframe.
16. Attach engine crane (lifting points at rear of block and front of head).
17. Jack rear of car up to allow easier access.
18. Remove engine, checking carefully as I go for still attatched parts and wires.
19. Cup of tea
20. Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Looks like a 20 minute job

Edited to add PAS pump and Earth strap for future refrence.

[Brianmoooore]

6/ C101 is not the diagnostic socket, but they are next to each other on a four pot.

[Touring Whore]

Well, it's three days later than I thought I'd have it done, but I got the engine out this afternoon There were a couple of things missed off my list (disconnect fuel lines, brake servo hose, heater pipes), but other than the exhaust studs everything was pretty easy. My neighbour is going to drop the subframe and rear beam off for me tomorrow (It's great having a unit next door to a mechanic who is looking to restore his MG).

As a bonus, a customer came in for a quote who is an E30 nut, and just happens to be scrapping a car this weekend with a good windscreen

It's been slow progress, but I'm getting there, and I'm chuffed with myself for getting it out without having to resort to destructive removal techniques. Also many thanks to the advice above, it made it really quite easy.

Now on to M40 remove and replace. Should be a doddle