Putting M60 into e30

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Frenchguy
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Post Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:55 pm

willnz wrote: Secondly, I dont want to use the 20mm spacers under the crossmember, I can see some have been successful leaving them out but I am not sure exactly how they achieved this.
I don't think the spacers are as bad as some claim. You could retain the stock roll centre by fitting 20 mm balljoint extenders (between wishbones and hub carriers) for example.
Anyway the most popular way around spacers is to hammer the firewall. Some German dude built a custom oil pan to make the engine sit lower. Alternatively you could chop a bit off the crossmember to make extra room for the engine but then you would have to lower the steering rack as well using custom brackets.
FormerMember
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Post Mon Jul 20, 2009 9:49 am

Try finding 6-speed tranny from E39, they're far more common at least here in Europe than E34 manual cars.

Friend of mine fitted M60 to E30 without lowering front crossmember, but he raised gearbox-tunnel ~10mm, otherwise the engine-gearbox package would be tilted backwards quite a lot. He still had enough clearance between hood and engine.
E30 Cabrio M-Tech, powered by V8
E34 M5 3.8 x 2
Alpina D10 Touring #33/93

E46 318i Touring
Toyota Hiace 4wd
Baurluvva
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Post Thu Aug 06, 2009 2:17 pm

I have a v8 m60 manual gearbox for sale!! :cool:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0455741585

As you say VERY hard to come by!
oze30
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Post Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:31 am

Dude, He's in NZ!

You could try getting a machine shop to adapt a tremec or other (Ford/Holden) box. From memory, there's enough left on the gearbox to get an adapter on, but it's going to have to be a thin one!
Baurluvva
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Post Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:48 am

Yeah :o: noticed that after I posted!!
oze30
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Post Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:10 pm

lol!

It's a tight fit without the spacers, just means you can't run the E34 triangular header tank. If you run a strut brace, be prepared to ditch it or modify it to clear the plastic loom covers. In my avatar, the brace just rubs on the covers at full tilt. It's not as difficult as people make it out to be, you just need to have the patience and place to do it. An enclosed carport/garage is ideal. If you know how to weld, even better. If you can make up exhaust manifolds and know the dynamics of it all, I'll buy a set of them off you!

You're limited in terms of brakes (I ran no servo assist as I didn't want to cut the strut bracing) but there are different options out there. I ran mine with an E30 M3 5 stud conversion, with a dual master cylinder setup behind the glovebox.This was more than adequate for fast track use, but road use, I would have liked a bit more stopping power for panic stops. (Different sized MC will help this as well as a dedicated pedal box to dial the ratio in.

Exhaust, you'll need to custom make it anyways, but the manifolds are the hardest.

Oh, you can't really run a quick rack eg Z3 as it clouts the downpipes. IF you were to get it all setup and then made the manifolds, you should be ok, though there's not much room between the strut braces and the rockers, you can just about get a hand between them.

Not sure about the E36 Evo gearbox, it's theoretically the same, but with a different bell housing. You could get an adapter made to fit OR cut the housing off the auto and weld it onto the E36 box 8O

Diffs are something I'd also be looking at. I ran it with a 3.73, 3.64 and a 3.15. All slippers and all left 2 very nice thick black lines when prompted. The 3.15 was the most usable. the 3.73 was on the high side of bearable. A 4.1 is very silly unless you want to lose the 1st 2 gears.

Hope this answers a few questions. :cool: