m30 conversion progress and questions

[dannyboy759]

Ive got a 535 sat here ready to drop the lump in my 4 door 325!
The questions I have are..
I take it all i need above a whole 535 lol is an M3 prop and a set of engine mounts?
Also my 325 is lhd does that help at all or hinder?
The diff and G/box comes from the 5er?

[Theo]

M3 prop, engine mounts, m20/m40 transmission support bracket, e28 535i rad (better than e34), e28 535i bottom rad hose (if using the e28 rad), electric fan, an exhaust of some description will all be needed for the conversion.

Putting it in a LHD car is good news in the sense that you will have no clearance issues with the steering linkage and exhaust manifold flange. Are you putting it in an M3??

[beefy]

dannyboy i can supply you the mounts for 100 pound plus postage several people of here have used them and been very pleased with the quality and service.

Will a m42 transmission support braket be ok?

[dannyboy759]

No its not an M3.
Ive got a Diamond black 4 door that came from the factory in Germany sport spec,
Seats, suspension, headlinning, all apart from the kit and because it been in Germany its not got a spot of rust, nothing, just thought it would be a good car for a conversion.
Just not sure yet what i want to do a M30, M50, or turbo M20.
Not too sure of all that weight up front from the M30 an M20 is bad enough lol

[Theo]

Will a m42 transmission support braket be ok?

Yeah, that will be fine mate.

[Theo]

Danny, sounds like a nice car you have. Both the M50 and M30 have their advantages, if it's an everyday car then fuel consumption has to be taken into consideration and i'm sure the m50 will get better MPG.

I wouldn't worry about the weight of the engine too much, i've got an m30 in my track car and it can still be driven hard without understeering into the first tyre wall. It's not an issue on a road car IMO.

[dannyboy759]

But how does it compare in performance to an M50

[Theo]

Well in terms of figures the m30 does 218bhp and 225ft/lbs give or take, the M50 does 192bhp and 181ft/lbs so bearing in mind that it is torque that really accelerates you the M30 would appear to have a significant edge.

That said, the M50 can be tweaked to give more power, DanThe has significantly better figures from his m50 than the stock ones but I don't know what's been done to it.

Also worth bearing in mind that BOTH engines are very heavy, not just the m30 boat anchor. A quick search revealed these figures for the bare engines.

M20 117 Kg
M30 143 Kg
M40 81 kg
M42 100kg
M50 136 kg
M60 146 kg
S14 106 kg
S38 141 kg
S50 152kg
S62 158kg

[dannyboy759]

woooow 30kgs that a lot to put up front!!
Its not an Audi you know

[Ron_Burgundy]

Can you use the diff out of the 535i?

[beefy]

hey i got the engine in on saturday it was a bit tricky getin it on to the rubber mounts. I was doing it alone.

I had to remove the exhaust manifold to get the engine in. Because the flange was hitin the steering joint preventing me from droping the engine down on to the mount.

The engine is in position 3 but it is touching the bulkhead not sure if its only touching the sound proofing as i did take a hammer to it is this ok?

The sump is also touching the steering rack but hopin this is just because i havent go the gear box end bolted up

[beefy]

went to bolt box up and the gear linkage doesnt line up with the hold in the car floor. Oh no

Im guessing i need a linkage from a 325i. Is this right?

And will i be able to change it with the engine and box in the car?

[Theo]

Yeah, you will need a 325i linkage and selector rod. Mine are actually shorter that std, but apparently standard length 325i bits are fine. You can change it with the engine and box bolted up, easier if the prop isnt connected and you can drop the gearbox down by taking the support off.

[beefy]

or excellent cheers theo hows it held to the box feels like there is a pin there. You dont have lying around do ya.

[Theo]

Take a look at this diagram - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=25&fg=05

You need to pull the clip (no.3) up - easist with your left hand and a small screw driver the just pull the pin out to the side. Then just take the circlip of securing the selector rod and it will come away.

[gareth]

this is an ideal time to fit a nice new Z3 shifter too

[Theo]

Hell yeah, make sure you put a short shifter kit in whilst you're messing around in that area - go for the Z3 1.9 one.

[gareth]

the best £15-20 you'll spend imho!

[beefy]

numb 3 is a bolt is that right and do i need to change both parts of the linkage the bar bits or is the lower one ok

[Theo]

It's more of a pin than a bolt, just slides out. You'll need to change both the upper linkage and the selector rod as they will both be too long if they are from a 318is. I'm afraid I don't have a spare set, otherwise I'd be able to help you out

[beefy]

are the z3 shifters from bmw 15 20quid

[gareth]

about that, yes. have a look in the "genuine bmw parts dept" forum as they were priced up as a kit a while ago iirc.

[dannyboy759]

Can anyone confirm that if i get an E30 M3 propshaft it would fit on the car with the 535 gearbox and diff with no messing?

[gareth]

you won't get a 535 diff on with no messing! it'll mate a M30 535 (or 530) gearbox to any E30 diff in P2, P2.5 and probably P3. however, i do not remommend using a small case diff!

[Ron_Burgundy]

If you are just using an m30 engine and 535i gearbox can't you just use a shortened 535i propshaft and diff? Sorry if it's a stupid question.

[DRIFTBOY]

You can use a shortened front half of the E34 propshaft joined to the standard rear half of the E30 'shaft.
That's what I'm running and it's been fine so far, done about 8 or 9,000 miles in it.

The big case diff can be fitted to the E30 rear beam but only with lots of surgery / fabrication.
And the output flanges for the driveshafts have to be changed.

A medium case E30 diff is tough enough for most conversions.

[beefy]

Z3 shifter ordered today from zimmerbimmer, 325i linkages on there way.

Do e30 diffs come in small,medium and large case.

Also whats the opinions on my cylnder head touching the bulk head i think it will only be touching the souhdproofring a i did take a hammer to the bulk head.

[DRIFTBOY]

E30 diffs come in small and medium cases.
Medium is the one you need unless you fancy doing a Gareth! (See his sig pic from Santa Pod!).

Large case is for big 5 and 7- series cars.

Touching the soundproofing probably not a major issue, unless you need to undo the top bell housing bolt!

Some people accept that a clutch change is an engine out job, I don't like that idea myself and chopped off the top bell housing bolt lug.

[Speedtouch]

Some people accept that a clutch change is an engine out job, I don't like that idea myself and chopped off the top bell housing bolt lug.

So this enables you to drop the gearbox out without touching the engine? Makes you wonder why BMW didn't make the gearbox that way in the first place...

[dannyboy759]

so.....with the 535 engine and gearbox, an M3 prop i can use the standard rear diff from the 325 which im using as a doner car?....Correct????

[DRIFTBOY]

So this enables you to drop the gearbox out without touching the engine? Makes you wonder why BMW didn't make the gearbox that way in the first place...

Well, in engine position 3 it makes it just about possible. Getting the 'box back on is the tricky bit!
The further forward the engine is the easier it will be, but we don't want it forwards!

It's not BMW's fault, it's us lot putting M30 engines in E30s!

so.....with the 535 engine and gearbox, an M3 prop i can use the standard rear diff from the 325 which im using as a doner car?....Correct????

Correct sir!

[beefy]

right then just been looking at the engine bay tonight and theres a few questions i have:

1, the pipe on the front of the air box is going to interfer with the front lights do i just take this pipe off?

2, my manifold is in two pieces the piece at the front of the engine i have had to take off to get the engine in, because the flange that attaches it to the downpipe hits the steering joint. What do i do? Was thinking of chopping it off and rotating it about 90 degrees and welding it back on.

3, what electric fan do i use? and how do i wire it up? And i guess i need to mount it infront of the radiator in the gap between the rad and the front panel is this right?

4, heater matrix pipes coming from the bulk head it doesnt look there will be enough room to get the pipes on as they will touch the inlet manifold?

5, i had to remove a pipe from the bulk head which is about 10cm long and flatende at the end and it doesnt go anywere looks like some kind of breather or overflow pipe what is it?

Last one for now

6, where have you guys mount the coil pack?


Cheers

[DRIFTBOY]

right then just been looking at the engine bay tonight and theres a few questions i have:

1, the pipe on the front of the air box is going to interfer with the front lights do i just take this pipe off?

2, my manifold is in two pieces the piece at the front of the engine i have had to take off to get the engine in, because the flange that attaches it to the downpipe hits the steering joint. What do i do? Was thinking of chopping it off and rotating it about 90 degrees and welding it back on.

3, what electric fan do i use? and how do i wire it up? And i guess i need to mount it infront of the radiator in the gap between the rad and the front panel is this right?

4, heater matrix pipes coming from the bulk head it doesnt look there will be enough room to get the pipes on as they will touch the inlet manifold?

5, i had to remove a pipe from the bulk head which is about 10cm long and flatende at the end and it doesnt go anywere looks like some kind of breather or overflow pipe what is it?

Last one for now

6, where have you guys mount the coil pack?


Cheers

1. Yes!

2. Can do that, some people get away with just grinding a few millimeters of the edge of the flange, worth trying out first.

3. Correct re: fan mounting. Many options of fan, aftermarket or from a suitable scrapyard donor. Choice is almost endless but it MUST blow through the radiator. I can advise on wiring later, it's not tricky.

4. They are very tight, doesn't seem to matter that they touch the manifold, although a protective sleeve might be advisable. A Mk1 Golf GTI servo helps here and I have heard of people using specific model of Renault Clio servos.

5. Throw it away! I think it's an overflow of some kind but I didn't give it much thought!

6. I simply turned the coil 90 degrees with extended wiring. Can be mounted almost anywhere around the right hand strut top, as long as the lead from the distributor cap still reaches!

Phew!

[beefy]

Cheers drift boy appreciate it.

I shall try and grind the manifold and hope that will doit what kind of clearance do you think there needs to be between the flange and the steering joint 5-10mm?

What materialdo you use for a protective sleeve?

I think i will ty ebay for a fan for ease and cost.

once again cheers for the info.

[DRIFTBOY]

No probs dude!

I can't say for sure how much clearance is needed because all I know is that mine hasn't got enough!
I have to be careful around sharp left hand corners!

I used rubber for the sleeves on the hoses, some cars have these as standard where they might rub on something or get hot, I had some in my garage 'stock'!

I got my fan off Ebay, not too cheap though, I think I paid £45 ish.
Air con rads from BMW E34 / E32 is a popular choice I believe.