Guys please reinforce your cars first

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:22 pm

Yes Guys! Thats the first thing ill be doing LOL

ILL PROB OVERKILL THE WHOLE THING!!!

I was thinking of using the same RSJ i used in my house when we knocked the wall down. That should hold it

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:29 pm

g57yle wrote:Yes Guys! Thats the first thing ill be doing LOL

ILL PROB OVERKILL THE WHOLE THING!!!

I was thinking of using the same RSJ i used in my house when we knocked the wall down. That should hold it

How much more power is that poor engine going to have to produce to counteract the weight??? :lol:

Second turbo going back on???

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:33 pm

gortour wrote:
g57yle wrote:Yes Guys! Thats the first thing ill be doing LOL

ILL PROB OVERKILL THE WHOLE THING!!!

I was thinking of using the same RSJ i used in my house when we knocked the wall down. That should hold it
How much more power is that poor engine going to have to produce to counteract the weight???
Second turbo going back on???

I was thinking of puttiing another engine in the boot to add the extra power and using more RSJs for drive shafts LOL

That should give about the correct weight distribution also

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:40 pm

Love it. can't WAIT to see THAT... :lol:

Glad you still have a sense of humour, I'd have been well upset if that had happened to my car...

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:42 pm

No need to re-shell,try prepfab engineering, http://www.prepfab.co.uk/ they can whip you up a proper gusset and strenghtened axle set up.

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:54 pm

gortour wrote:Love it. can't WAIT to see THAT...
Glad you still have a sense of humour, I'd have been well upset if that had happened to my car...

All i know is everything happens for a reason.

Probably cos i didnt strengthen it lol!

I like taking things to their limits to see exacly what they can do. i was waiting for it to happen, but i was expecting it to happen after i turned the boost up

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:35 pm

You crazy crazy man!

I love it!

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 6:43 pm

yo dude seen this around phat car, i live bout 2 minutes from you....... im sure it can be reinforced and welded back rather than reshellin???? im looking to do somyhing to my tourer, but dunno what yet..

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:09 pm

Shi*te that's bad news, but a great conversion. Never seen a mount torn out like that before. I think I'm going to reinforce mine before I put the s50 in having seen that. I can see why BMW changed the E36 mounts to symmetrical arms.

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:23 pm

assuming the shell is rot free( looks OK in pix) why not rear half the car dude ?

then you could use the rollcage as the structural memeber in the back, and carry the diff directly on the cage and triagulate back to the strut tops and chassis rail.

2 birds, one stone ?

I have been involved a in a fair few hotrod builds and this is normal for those guys.

Hell, slap a 9" in the back with a locker, job jobbed :lol:

Good project BTW

Super T60 snail ? cant quite see in the pix

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:15 pm

g57yle wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:Isn't there a rear cover that fits the diff that has twin mounts?

E39 diff in my workshop has a rear cover with two mounts, but I'm sure I've seen pics of a diff in an E30 with a two bush rear cover. Don't recall whether it was an E30 type medium case diff with a different rear cover, or a totally different BMW diff grafted in. Either way, the body mount for the two bushes had been fabricated from scratch and welded on to the shell.

Post Sun Dec 31, 2006 11:26 pm

Jap wrongness

Lovin it though

Post Mon Jan 01, 2007 2:19 am

That car looks fantastic!!! I like the body work on it!

I like Ants idea, best of both worlds.

Post Mon Jan 01, 2007 12:02 pm

Ant wrote:assuming the shell is rot free( looks OK in pix) why not rear half the car dude ?

then you could use the rollcage as the structural memeber in the back, and carry the diff directly on the cage and triagulate back to the strut tops and chassis rail.

2 birds, one stone ?

I have been involved a in a fair few hotrod builds and this is normal for those guys.

Hell, slap a 9" in the back with a locker, job jobbed

Good project BTW

Super T60 snail ? cant quite see in the pix

Hi ant, I know anything can be done, and i know ill do that on my next chassis but i think ive put this one through way too much, and id live to have a compleatly mint one now, Thanks for the positive feedback though, its actually the largest type of garrett GT35R im using, they are rated at 600hp by garrett but are well known for producing 700hp on a variaty of motors

Post Mon Jan 01, 2007 12:04 pm

kam325itouring wrote:yo dude seen this around phat car, i live bout 2 minutes from you....... im sure it can be reinforced and welded back rather than reshellin???? im looking to do somyhing to my tourer, but dunno what yet..

Really?

Where about do u live? i know what it feels like, but there is always something you can do

Post Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:22 am

g57yle im in seven kings i got a car audio shop in goodmayes too...... drop me a pm.....

Post Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:01 pm

This is also a known problem on series spec M Z3's, they tear the diff mounting out of the floor, hell, BM knew this was a problem way back in the E12,, that's also why BM went for the twin mount on the rest of the M powered E36 range, and they fitted a damper (delay) valve in the clutch line of the high powere E39 with large tire options.

Post Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:41 pm

Jon_Bmw wrote:I'm being a bit dim today, but that isn't a bmw lump that i've come across. Supra lump?

Just about what I was thinking! I don't know of too many twin cam, belt driven BMW motors

Post Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:30 pm

thats a mighty fine looking project youve got there mate ,you kept this quiet,never heard of this one before

pitty about the mishap but im sure itll come good in the end.

Post Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:30 pm

fuzzy wrote:thats a mighty fine looking project youve got there mate ,you kept this quiet,never heard of this one before pitty about the mishap but im sure itll come good in the end.

Hi Fuzzy, to tell you the truth i never really knew what i was doing to my car, and i dont like saying something and never comeing through, so at least i can say I DID IT

Now is the easy part

Post Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:14 pm

wooaaaah! Can't believe I missed this thread!!!

Been having willy coughs for some time thinking about some german/jap infusion.

I'm too pikey to stretch to a 2JZ with 6 speed box, so I am planning on using the 7M-GTE out of the MK3 UK Supra as they are buttons for a MOT failure car.

Does the 2JZ drop straight on the E30 mounts then? Had you already done the big single conversion before you put it in the car or did you still have the twin snails on there? Reason I ask is that the twins will be in a similar place to the standard mounted CT26 blower on the 7M lump and I'm curious as to how much clearance probs there may be with the steering column.
My car is going to be a rat look sleeper, maybe even a 4 dr, gonna probably keep it an auto too with the supra box so can brake boost it for good drag launches.

Good work with the rear end dude.

Have a look at these threads from an aussie forum and you can see the work the guy has done with the rear end.
There are good pictures of the fabrication he has done to this exact area. If the rest of your shell is OK then I would repair what you have.

http://forums.eurocca.net/showthread.php?t=13398

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/720651

Right, I'm off to knock one out

Post Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:42 pm

So what happened to the diff mounting points on the rear beam? For that damage to be caused the beam would have had to move about a foot away from the body on the near side. Either that or something not right with the diff mounting bolts

Post Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:51 pm

Jon_Bmw wrote:
Beemerlad is going to wet himself in excitement

you weren't wrong there Jon

Post Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:28 pm

Just wondering. you are running rubber diff mounts. that won't help the amount of movement you were getting. I suppose you could argue it reduced the "thud" of a nasty bit of right foot!?

i would have gone poly all around, or even solid on that kind of power. and 500! i heard the e30 rear was good for 350 reliably (i know many do more).

Post Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:46 am

E30BeemerLad wrote:wooaaaah! Can't believe I missed this thread!!!

Been having willy coughs for some time thinking about some german/jap infusion. I'm too pikey to stretch to a 2JZ with 6 speed box, so I am planning on using the 7M-GTE out of the MK3 UK Supra as they are buttons for a MOT failure car.

Does the 2JZ drop straight on the E30 mounts then? Had you already done the big single conversion before you put it in the car or did you still have the twin snails on there? Reason I ask is that the twins will be in a similar place to the standard mounted CT26 blower on the 7M lump and I'm curious as to how much clearance probs there may be with the steering column.
My car is going to be a rat look sleeper, maybe even a 4 dr, gonna probably keep it an auto too with the supra box so can brake boost it for good drag launches.

Good work with the rear end dude.

Have a look at these threads from an aussie forum and you can see the work the guy has done with the rear end.
There are good pictures of the fabrication he has done to this exact area. If the rest of your shell is OK then I would repair what you have.

http://forums.eurocca.net/showthread.php?t=13398

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/720651

Right, I'm off to knock one out

Hi, i know of Ben with the 2jz in australia

Sorry about the late reply, i was barred off the zone! LOL

I had to create custom engine mounts to get it in, but i never tried it with the standard turbos, thats the first thing i pulled out. sorry

Post Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:48 am

BristolBulldog wrote:Just wondering. you are running rubber diff mounts. that won't help the amount of movement you were getting. I suppose you could argue it reduced the "thud" of a nasty bit of right foot!?

i would have gone poly all around, or even solid on that kind of power. and 500! i heard the e30 rear was good for 350 reliably (i know many do more).

yeh, i thought the rubber mount would help my rear end!

oh well.

Better luck next time.

Post Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:44 am

DanThe wrote:So what happened to the diff mounting points on the rear beam? For that damage to be caused the beam would have had to move about a foot away from the body on the near side. Either that or something not right with the diff mounting bolts

This is what happened

Post Sat Jan 20, 2007 10:25 am

Thats just the bush mounting.
Its the 4 bolts holding the diff to the rear beam that im interested in, would like to see what happened there.

Post Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:39 am

DanThe wrote:Thats just the bush mounting.
Its the 4 bolts holding the diff to the rear beam that im interested in, would like to see what happened there.

good point. it seems like the rear beam mount bushes would have had to have failed prior to this happening? or the four moutng bolts tear from the rear subframe. This mounting point is more a stabiliser than a torsion control point.

Post Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:18 am

DanThe wrote:Thats just the bush mounting.
Its the 4 bolts holding the diff to the rear beam that im interested in, would like to see what happened there.

i think the entire diff/subframe assembly has rotated around the subframe bush mount points, i.e. the rear of the assembly has been forced down on a hard launch, and pulled the rear diff mount down with it?

Post Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:20 am

4 bolts that hold the diff to the subframe? eh? what dya mean there's 4 bolts that hold the diff to the subframe?

there is know way it could hang as pictured above with those 4 bolts securely in - i should know i left most of the skin on my knuckles there last night tightning the wee buggers.
still though it would be possible i imagine to crack the subframe as shown above with big horse power and a loose rear diff bishe mounting bolt - there is that much give in the rear axle that immediate bursts of big power could indeed crack it but it would not hang as pictured with the bolts tightened,

Post Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:23 am

Toby_Unna wrote:
DanThe wrote:Thats just the bush mounting.
Its the 4 bolts holding the diff to the rear beam that im interested in, would like to see what happened there.
i think the entire diff/subframe assembly has rotated around the subframe bush mount points, i.e. the rear of the assembly has been forced down on a hard launch, and pulled the rear diff mount down with it?

sounds right.

I wreckon he has rubber rear beam bushes. the torque (and wear and tear) has torn one out one end, and allowed all the torque straight through to the diff mount, which was only ever supposed to be a stabiliser.

The car could have easily re-seated itself back on the bush after, and he never knew?

I would drop the subframe, put all new poly bushes in. whilst its off weld the diff mount backup (as you did), and then put some extra plating on it as well. one think 1" wide plate 1/4" thick will go directly through the space between the two mounts. weld this in all along, seam welded. then plate either side.

you will need to check you havnt bent the subframe or chassis though. Quite possible you tore a beam mount as well, especially given the amount of movement, adn subsequent leverage you would have put through it.

Post Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:46 am

BristolBulldog wrote:
Toby_Unna wrote:
DanThe wrote:Thats just the bush mounting.
Its the 4 bolts holding the diff to the rear beam that im interested in, would like to see what happened there.
i think the entire diff/subframe assembly has rotated around the subframe bush mount points, i.e. the rear of the assembly has been forced down on a hard launch, and pulled the rear diff mount down with it?
sounds right.

I wreckon he has rubber rear beam bushes. the torque (and wear and tear) has torn one out one end, and allowed all the torque straight through to the diff mount, which was only ever supposed to be a stabiliser.

The car could have easily re-seated itself back on the bush after, and he never knew?

I would drop the subframe, put all new poly bushes in. whilst its off weld the diff mount backup (as you did), and then put some extra plating on it as well. one think 1" wide plate 1/4" thick will go directly through the space between the two mounts. weld this in all along, seam welded. then plate either side.

you will need to check you havnt bent the subframe or chassis though. Quite possible you tore a beam mount as well, especially given the amount of movement, adn subsequent leverage you would have put through it.

Interesting,

No spare wheel well!

Post Tue Jan 23, 2007 12:16 am

thanks guys, ill check it out but i highly doubt i have torn any mounts as they were all new, i need to invest in some poly bushes but i have 2 questions:

1) where do i buy them and how much?

2) do they increase road noise? if so how much?

Thanks

Post Wed Jan 24, 2007 6:23 pm

there is torque in two axes here.

1) the propshaft torque. this has an equal and opposite reaction down the cars length. this is easily countered by the width of the subframe supported on the main subframe mounts. this is i suspect all intact as there is a metal plate that stops the rear end falling apart if the bush totally fails.

2) the driveshaft torque. this acts laterally across the car and is a product of the reaction between the wheel on the ground and the rotating diff output flanges. under forward load this will try to pull the diff mounting downwards. the subframe mounts will also be pushed upwards.

i think it is case 2 that pulled the rear end apart...

looks nasty regardless though!