318is with Rotrex C30-94 Supercharger

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GeoffBob
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 3:14 pm

Appletree,

You've seen the plots I posted. You're running up the far left of the C30-94 map. And if you reduce the size of your compressor pulley to make the hp you're after, you'll make the situation even worse. You’re supposed to be running up the centre of the map through the area of maximum efficiency. IMO, Richard is not advising you properly.

You'll need a wideband pressure probe if you hope to measure surge. Don't use a probe with a slow response that is really only suitable for static or low frequency measurements. If its a digital meter(calculator type readout), it's no good to you. You need something that displays the pressure waveform on a Pressure vs Time plot, such as a piezoelectric pressure sensor connected to an oscilloscope. I suggest you perform this experiment with the 90mm pulley fitted.

With reference to Richards comments:
appletree wrote:Using the C30-94 chart you can see although the line is offset to the left it just goes the wrong side of the surge line right down at the bottom
Yes, but with your current pulley combination you're in the bottom left of the chart right up until an engine speed of 5300RPM!! By 5300RPM you should be around the middle of the chart already. Are you using this compressor or just letting it idle? And if you reduce the size of the compressor pulley you're only going to make this worse because you'll just push the loadline further to the left!
appletree wrote:Concluding the 74-84 may give you marginally better response low down but is absolutely maxed out where the 94 has capacity to give more boost should you require with your low compression motor.
The only way you will make more boost with either is by spinning the compressor wheel faster. Do that with the C30-94 and you'll just push it further into surge. Not a good idea. I've said this once already, the only way you are going to flow more air is not not by pushing your compressor further into surge, but by fitting your C30-94 to a bigger engine.

Matt, I think you need to face the fact that you are working with an 1800cc engine. An incorrectly configured supercharger is not the way to chase a 300hp figure. Neither the C30-84 or C30-94 will give you the opprtunity to work much beyond a pressure ratio of around 2.5 (1.5 bar boost at P_atmos=1bar). Maybe your engine is able to handle much greater boost with your low compression engine, but then you may have to look at other options to get there.
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 5:06 pm

I hear you,


:bow:

i knew it was always going to be asking alot of a 1.8 starting to wish i'd just B32'd it must be getting near that sort of money now. :cry: :violin:
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 6:30 pm

Matt, 300hp is not to be sneezed at. If I were you I'd make 300hp the limit, but do it properly. If you make your objective the future, you're going to mess up the here and the now.
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 6:43 pm

appletree wrote:The injectors are 460cc rover tomcat ones (220ish bhp) but ive had them cleaned and tested and they should be good for 300bhp@80% duty cycle. Pressures controled by an adjustable pressure reg, currently at 3.5bar.
Is that 3.5 bar with the engine idling or, 3.5bar with the engine off? At idle you're pulling a vacuum of typically around -0.6 bar (relative to atmospheric pressure), so that would make your actual injector pressure around 4.1 bar, a touch on the high side.

Are you running sequential or batch firing of your injectors?
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 7:57 pm

it was with the engine off, just turn the ignition on to let the pump run then see what the pressure was.

IIRC the emerald ECU is set up for wasted spark batch firing but could run sequential

300bhp was the goal now more after that and after this project i wont be able to do anything else to the car as i bought a house last august and need to change were my focus is realy ( for a bit anyway winkeye ) if it gets close to 300bhp 275+ i'll be happy.

The engine its self is now 8.5:1 CR and has H-beam forged rods with JE- forged pistons, the crank is forged as standard and has been balanced along with the new light weight flywheel and assembly, the head has had the sodium filled valves replaced with solid "turbo spec" valves and the block has also been o-ringed around each cylinder, so hopefully the engine will be up to the job and stay relyable, this build was supposed to be done right once :roll:
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 9:36 pm

Where is that 1.15 factor coming from?

300/136*1.15 = 2.537?
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Post Wed May 20, 2009 11:06 pm

Gunni wrote:Where is that 1.15 factor coming from?

300/136*1.15 = 2.537?
Gunni, I have no idea. I've never seen anyone work that way before. Maybe he was adding VAT? And the fact that there are no units on the end of the numbers just burns my bum!
appletree wrote:it was with the engine off, just turn the ignition on to let the pump run then see what the pressure was.:
OK, I get you. That's the right way to measure it. I've seen a lot of fools quote their fuel pressure with the engine idling, believe it or not. :wink:
appletree wrote:The engine its self is now 8.5:1 CR and has H-beam forged rods with JE- forged pistons, the crank is forged as standard and has been balanced along with the new light weight flywheel and assembly, the head has had the sodium filled valves replaced with solid "turbo spec" valves and the block has also been o-ringed around each cylinder, so hopefully the engine will be up to the job and stay relyable, this build was supposed to be done right once
Sounds to me like you have a strong engine there. Don't give up just yet, you're on the home stretch. The last 5% always takes the longest, that's true of any project. I still recommend you just change the compressor housing, wheel and pulley on your C30-94. That has to be the cheapest option. And even though 300hp may be your limit, at least you'll make it repeatedly and reliably, and 300hp is plenty in my opinion.

Out of interest, what's the highest boost pressure you've taken her up to out on the road? You only went up to 0.5bar in your video, have you taken her beyond that yet?
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Post Thu May 21, 2009 8:10 am

Well Richard is offering a streight swop, so thats free, intrested in swoping the housings though, would it fit though? I thought the -94 impellor is bigger than -84 so wouldnt it touch on the -84 housing? This would make a whole new flow chart we dont have wouldnt it?

I think in reality the sensible thing to do is comprimise abit off power for relibity, both chargers fit my bracket so now messing around and even if the -84 graph is 10% optamistic it would still make good power.

It went up to 0.7bar@ 5300rpm in the vid its just not a very good vid, on my phone it holds the last frame and its clear, or quicktime and youtube it doesn't

Not sure what pressure i should be getting out of the -94 currently at 6500 on the dyno graph it looks like its only going to go up to 13psi where i thought i needed 17psi to get near 300bhp which is why i was looking at a smaller pully. :D
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Post Thu May 21, 2009 10:47 am

Assuming you have ZERO loss in VE
then you can use

300/136 = 2.2 or 1.2bar boost wich is 17.64psi boost.

Now if you have not sized up the exhaust manifold then you´ll be running into a restriction right there. And it´s a BAD one at that as any restriction on exhaust gas flow is the worst kind.

Asided from the fact of losses from the SC just keep adding up as the boost rises I think your 300hp number is going to be hard to reach or will have to happen at a relatively high boost.
You might be seeing 300hp worth of air going in (cirka 30lbs/min) but the SC it required some of that to directly creating the boost. So on the dyno the resulting number will be less.
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Post Thu May 21, 2009 12:13 pm

appletree wrote:Well Richard is offering a streight swop, so thats free, intrested in swoping the housings though, would it fit though? I thought the -94 impellor is bigger than -84 so wouldnt it touch on the -84 housing? This would make a whole new flow chart we dont have wouldnt it?
I said, replace the compressor housing, wheel and pulley. In other words it's the complete compressor from a C30-84 with an 80mm pulley. I wasn't suggesting you replace the housing only, I don't think that would do you much good. (The rest of the bits and pieces are identical across the C30 range, they only differ in the compressors they use).
appletree wrote:I think in reality the sensible thing to do is comprimise abit off power for relibity, both chargers fit my bracket so now messing around and even if the -84 graph is 10% optamistic it would still make good power.
Good thinking! I stand by my prediction of your power output . I believe that you will come close to 300HP with that C30-84. As you have seen in the equations I presented, I don't assume a constant VE, and although I don't personally know your engine, unless you have a crippling exhaust manifold and exhaust, your engine will do well.
appletree wrote:It went up to 0.7bar@ 5300rpm in the vid its just not a very good vid, on my phone it holds the last frame and its clear, or quicktime and youtube it doesn't

Not sure what pressure i should be getting out of the -94 currently at 6500 on the dyno graph it looks like its only going to go up to 13psi where i thought i needed 17psi to get near 300bhp which is why i was looking at a smaller pully. :D
Remember, you are measuring your boost pressure at your intake manifold. At around 5000RPM I'd expect to see your boost pressure at the outlet of your compressor about 1psi (7kPa) higher. This is very often where that old chestnut "the compressor is not quite up to spec comes from". It's because the person performing the test is measuring the boost pressure at the wrong place, and thus it seems lower than it should be for the given engine, and thus compressor, speed.

Looking at the very first loadline I plotted for you, with your current pulley sizes, at an engine speed of 6500RPM (a compressor speed 0f 86400 RPM) you should be making 1.3 bar boost (at P_atmos=1bar) and flowing 0.21kg/s of air into your engine. You should thus be making roughly 280hp. There's nothing shameful about that figure! My only criticism is with regard to the fact that the loadline (in order to get to 6500RPM) has to pass through an area of surge, and is confined almost entirely to the bottom left of the compressor map.
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Post Thu May 21, 2009 1:48 pm

Going to have a look at the pressures tonight, put a boost take off as close to the compressor housing as posible and one just before the intercooler. :D
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Post Thu May 21, 2009 6:26 pm

Easiest way to measure the pressure drop over an intercooler (or any section of the intake or exhaust for that matter) is to connect a clear plastic tube, partially filled with water (mercury is frowned upon these days) and measure the difference in height of the two menisci. With the engine off, the two menisci should be level with each other. With the engine running the high pressure side will push the water down while the low pressure side pulls the water up. This is the principle of the basic water filled manometer, where it takes roughly 1kPa to separate the two menisci by 10cm. So for a 1psi (7kPa) drop across an intercooler you'd expect to see the water displaced by 70cm.

The best way to build a simple manometer like this is to attach a good length of tube in the form of a "U" to a plank of wood. That way you can see the two menisci next to each other. Some food coloring makes it easier to see the water. The total length of the tube doesn't matter so long as there are no kinks or tight bends in the tube. This is an extremely accurate method of measuring a pressure drop (differential pressure) over a length of pipe or over an intercooler. Just make sure you use a sufficiently long length of clear plastic tube and don't let the engine suck the water into it's intake by making the mistake of connecting one end of the water filled tube only.

Also, if you ever want to try this over a section of exhaust, you have to attach a length of heat resistant pipe or tube to the exhaust before you connect the clear plastic tube, for obvious reasons.
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Post Thu May 21, 2009 8:35 pm

Done some more measuring with the more accurate pressure reader, and the results aren't great, but probly expected :(

The peace of kit, does real time/ min / max, psi/bar/pascals you name it it does it. apart form logging.

Image

Pressures taken as close to the rotrex outlet as possible( before intercooler)
Image

2000 = 2.3psi
3000 = 4.1psi
4000 = 7.7psi
5000 = 12.2psi
5500 = 14.1psi

Same unit used to measure pressure at inlet manifold (after intercooler/dumpvalve and throttle

2000 = forgot
3000 = 3.3psi
4000 = 5.9psi
5000 = 8.8psi
5500 = 10.4psi

All tested in 3rd gear on reasonably flat private test track...

You can not see the surge on the digital pressuer reader as you said but i rigged up a spare turbo gauge and you could see it on that, pulsing when i held part throttle with the dump valve shut to make surge (you can hear it to)
but not a hint when i used full throttle the take off for this experiment was the one on the charger outlet :D

Mine and e30_turbos intercoolers are the same, wonder if hes try'd anything like this on his to see what the drop is :(

What dose this mean in real terms in relation to surge? I'm guessing it woun't be helping any as its more of a restriction.
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Post Fri May 22, 2009 10:43 am

appletree wrote:You can not see the surge on the digital pressuer reader as you said but i rigged up a spare turbo gauge and you could see it on that, pulsing when i held part throttle with the dump valve shut to make surge (you can hear it to)
but not a hint when i used full throttle the take off for this experiment was the one on the charger outlet :D

Mine and e30_turbos intercoolers are the same, wonder if hes try'd anything like this on his to see what the drop is :(
Excellent work Matt! Brilliant stuff. Get ready for a long read as this is going to be a long answer. Please take the time to read this carefully.

The simple fact is, the only way a smallish engine can make a whole lot of horsepower is by flowing a whole lot of air. Sadly, the pressure drop across your intercooler is an exponential function of the amount of air you pump through it. I must however say that I am quite surprised at the magnitude of the pressure drop across your intercooler - a whole 3.7 psi at 5500RPM! That's just over a 1/4 bar of boost that you are losing. Or looking at it another way, your compressor is having to work 1/4 bar harder to give you the same hp without the pressure drop. I expected to see closer to a 1psi drop at 5000RPM.

However, I don't believe that this pressure drop is due to any restriction imposed upon your flow by the intercooler.

Now for the science bit:
When you compress a gas in a closed volume it gets hot. We call this adiabatic heating (assuming no other heat transfer in or out of the volume of gas). Put simply, the air coming out of a turbocharger or supercharger compressor is hot because the compressor has squashed it.

The converse is true if you heat a volume of gas in a closed volume - the pressure rises. And likewise, and this is the point, if you cool a volume of gas you will lower its pressure. Matt, do you see where I am going with this? The air coming out of your intercooler is at a lower pressure because it is at a lower temperature.

So, what does this all mean? It means that, if you want to lower the pressure drop across your intercooler you need to lower the temperature of the air coming out of the compressor. Since you can do nothing about adiabatic heating, your only option is to do something about the efficiency your compressor. This is why, in every compressor installation I have been involved in, and in every text book I have read, the objective has always been to run the loadline up through the zone of maximum efficiency on the compressor map. This reduces the temperature of the air coming out of the compressor for two reasons:
  • 1) The compressor puts less heat into the air as a result of improved pumping efficiency, and
    2) because of the reduced pressure drop across the intercooler the compressor doesn't have to work as hard in the first place to achieve the demanded manifold pressure.
Since you already have a nice hole at your compressor outlet, I would suggest that your next task is to insert a low heat capacity thermocouple and measure the temperature of the air coming out of the compressor. I say low heat capacity because you don't want to have to wait all day for the thermocouple to warm up while you drive around at 5000RPM :eek:
appletree wrote:What dose this mean in real terms in relation to surge? I'm guessing it woun't be helping any as its more of a restriction.
The only way I can really comment on what this will do to your problem with surge is to re-plot your loadline using the new data you have presented (possibly you don't realise just how valuable this data is, so good on you for making the effort).

However, at this point I will say the following. Closing the throttle is effectively reducing the air flow through the system. Doing this while making boost is a bad idea since it pushes your loadline right over to the far left of the compressor flow map (deep into surge). The situation is exacerbated by the fact that you are already operating your compressor just to the left of the surge line. Ideally, by operating from the middle of the compressor map you have a reasonable margin for error to the left of your loadline. This means that you can make some boost while you take your foot off the throttle, meaning that the blow-off valve doesn't have to activate instantly. In your case, however, you have no choice. Your blow-off valve must engage the instant you back off the throttle to prevent your loadline from moving to the left.

And by the way. The sort off surge that you can actually hear over the engine noise and see on a boost gauge is the sort where the air flow around the compressor wheel has actually begun to stall. This is chronic surge. Don't do this, its deadly. The sort of surge I have been describing to you largely goes unnoticed and occurs physically as a small amount of turbulent air flow along the aerodynamic surface of the compressor blades. The subtle vibrations that this turbulent airflow causes in the blades will eventually cause them to fatigue, resulting in catastrophic failure. It might not sound like much, but believe me, when those blades are turning at 100kRPM, that small amount of turbulence is like an elephant massaging your head with its bum. You wouldn't attack your wheel rims with a jackhammer while they are spinning, so why do it to your compressor wheel?

Food for thought. Thus endeth todays sermon. winkeye
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Post Fri May 22, 2009 1:47 pm

This thread is brilliant- Thank you for the time you guys have taken Geoffbob and Appletree.

I've just lost my lunch hour reading this :D

And i'm now a bit clearer with regards to supercharging

Thanks

and Appletree, I hope you can nail 300bhp- Geoffbob certainly seems to be making convincing points
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Post Fri May 22, 2009 2:29 pm

320Touring wrote:This thread is brilliant- Thank you for the time you guys have taken Geoffbob and Appletree.

I've just lost my lunch hour reading this :D

And i'm now a bit clearer with regards to supercharging

Thanks

and Appletree, I hope you can nail 300bhp- Geoffbob certainly seems to be making convincing points
You're welcome, and thank you for your comment.
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Post Fri May 22, 2009 4:14 pm

appletree wrote:Pressures taken as close to the rotrex outlet as possible( before intercooler)

2000 = 2.3psi
3000 = 4.1psi
4000 = 7.7psi
5000 = 12.2psi
5500 = 14.1psi

Same unit used to measure pressure at inlet manifold (after intercooler/dumpvalve and throttle

2000 = forgot
3000 = 3.3psi
4000 = 5.9psi
5000 = 8.8psi
5500 = 10.4psi

All tested in 3rd gear on reasonably flat private test track...
Matt, sorry, but something's fishy with these values. The values measured after the intercooler don't match those on your original dynograph. They are infact quite a bit higher. Have you changed the pulley ratio between tests?

What did the pressure probe read on its own (with the engine off). Was it zero, or was there some finite value displayed?

Also, see my lengthy post on page two of this thread if you haven't seen it yet. Should help to put your mind at ease, although at this point in time I'm beginiing to think your quoted pressure values are a bit inflated. Could be wrong, but the data does seem to point that way.
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Post Fri May 22, 2009 9:05 pm

I've had a quick read at work but will be reading it again later.

The pressure tester was bought second hand in good working condition but that doesn't mean its calibrated.

It read 0.02psi with the engine off but dont know how this will increase/decrease as the pressure increases :(

Last time i went to daves to get the eaton set up mapped i got a peak reading of 10psi on the metre and daves dyno reading was 8psi, but whos is wrong i'd guess mine. all i do know is that my boost gauge is a good make and brand new and matches daves readings? Maybe i should do the test again but use the boost gauge on the outlet of the charger :D

Got my hands on a thermo couple job :D

My dad had a metre and i managed to get some thermo couples from the automations guy at work so can get some results tomorrow. :cool:
Image

Thats right, the missus has got the heating on flat out again... :roll:

So got.

2x thermo couples
1x extenderising cable
1x metre
1x plug to nick off the temp probe in the pic

:cool:
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Post Fri May 22, 2009 10:04 pm

Right more results this time just with the gauge on the rotrex out let.

Gauge at plenum (after intercooler, throttle and dump valve)

2000rpm = 0.15bar
2500rpm = 0.2bar
3000rpm = 0.3bar
3500rpm = 0.35bar
4000rpm = 0.4bar
4500rpm = 0.5bar
5000rpm = 0.6bar
5300rpm = 0.7bar

Gauge at rotrex outlet

2000rpm = 0.1 bar
3000rpm = 0.2 bar
4000rpm = 0.4 bar
5000rpm = 0.6 bar
5300rpm = 0.7 bar


Wondering if the dicrepency at the lower RPM's could be due to surge and the gauge not being quick enough to react?? :?

Sahme the rueslts are nothing like the ones the digital pressure tester produced.... back to square one LOL
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Post Sat May 23, 2009 6:54 am

Or maybe not....

Thinking about how i did the test,

Set the metre to show max recorded then floored it to 2k lift off, 3k lift off and so on.

BUT

Because i lifted after each pull it might be picking up a spike before the dump valve opens, which would be worse/bigger before the intercooler and wouldn't be there the after the intercooler test as i did the test from the plenum after the TB so it would go streight in to vacume and not see the spike.

Would still mean there is a 2psi difference between daves dyno and my tester.

Will try and test the metre against sum calibrated gauges at work later on if i get chance, then test again. :D
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Post Sat May 23, 2009 10:17 am

appletree wrote:Or maybe not....

Thinking about how i did the test,

Set the metre to show max recorded then floored it to 2k lift off, 3k lift off and so on.

BUT

Because i lifted after each pull it might be picking up a spike before the dump valve opens, which would be worse/bigger before the intercooler and wouldn't be there the after the intercooler test as i did the test from the plenum after the TB so it would go streight in to vacume and not see the spike.
Oh, definitely! Didn't realise you were setting the meter to peak-and-hold.

Here's what I would suggest. Set the meter up next to your tachometer (Continuous readings, not peak-and-hold. I hope your meter updates its reading relatively quickly?). Get your missus in the car with the video camera and go attack a steep hill. You need the hill to load the engine, else your revs will climb too quickly. That way you should get some reasonable footage of pressure (psi) as a function of engine speed (RPM). I'd attack the hill a good couple of times in order to repeat the experiment, both with the pressure probe before and after the intercooler. Then, examine the video footage and extract the values as best as possible. By repeating the test at least five times you should be able to establish a reasonable average pressure value for each value of RPM. In fact, you'll be able to extract a whole lot of values at many different RPM, which will make my job a whole lot easier. Also, you won't have to stop and start at each RPM value, you can just take it straight up to ~6000RPM in one foul swoop, slow down, and repeat the test over again until complete.

Use a proper video camera if you can as the frame rate and resolution are better than on a mobile. That way you should have a better chance of extracting the data accurately.
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Post Sat May 23, 2009 6:21 pm

The attached figure is from Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost and illustrates the effect of compressor efficiency upon the relationship between the compressor pressure ratio and the temperature of the air coming out of the compressor. I assume the inlet air is at standard temperature and pressure (STP) in this graph.

Image

You can calculate the temperature of the air coming out of your compressor using the following equation:

Image

where:
  • T1 is the absolute temperature of the air going in to the compressor (in Kelvins),
    T2 is the absolute temperature of the air coming out of the compressor (also in Kelvins),
    P1 is the absolute pressure of the air going in to the compressor (in Pascals),
    P2 is the absolute pressure of the air coming out of the compressor (in Pascals), and
    "n" or eta is the compressor efficiency (typically around 0.6 to 0.8, depending upon where you are operating on the compressor flow map).
You should measure temperatures that correspond more-or-less to the following graph. This graph was calculated using the above equation and the pressure data from your earlier post. I scaled your pressure data down to match Dave’s pressure probe, as I suspect your probe may need calibrating, although with the peak-and-hold problem you mentioned, this graph may still require an update after you post fresh pressure data.

Your temperature values should fall somewhere between the two curves. The upper curve assumes a compressor efficiency of 0.7 (close to the surge line), while the lower curve is for an efficiency of 0.75. I assumed an ambient temperature of 15'C and ambient pressure of 1bar. Your temperatures will scale up or down depending on whether it was warmer or cooler during your tests. If your air intake is under the bonnet, it may be drawing air warmer than ambient.

Image
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Post Sat May 23, 2009 9:29 pm

Well, started off today by going to the Practical Performance Car show and spoke with Dave Walker about the accuracy of his pressure sensor.

he said that it runs from a standard map sensor that was calibrated when the dyno was first set up 6 years ago but since then has not been re calibrated as it still works ok.

Next played about with the metre on the compressor and have rest zero and done the test again in in better conditions ( no lifting off/ no resting zero/ not turning off the machine)
and have got these results.

before intercooler.

3000rpm = 3psi
4000rpm = 5.2psi
5000rpm = 8.2psi
5500rpm = 10.3psi

After intercooler

3000rpm = 3psi ( no drop )
4000rpm = 5psi (0.2 psi drop)
5000rpm = 7.9psi (0.3psi drop)
5500rpm = 9.7psi (0.6psi drop)

Even if the metre was out it which i dont think it is, because of how the test was done the drop will not be out.

Test was done in 4th gear so there was more time to look at the metre ( no video camera sorry ) and i didn't lift off after each pull but went alittle bit past.

Got some temps to, couldn't get the probe in the same place next to the rotrex but got it on the inlet to the intercooler ( sorry no plenum temps yet)

Intercooler inlet temps, 18'C day :D

car was hot from the previos runs so this should be max temps realy.

1000rpm = 32'C
2000rpm = 37'C
3000rpm = 40'C
4000rpm = 44'C
5000rpm = 49'C

tryed to hold the revs at the rpm to get the best result but the metre was very quick to react anyway.

Just to clarify non of the above makes any differance to the fact that i need a smaller charger? as i intend to give Richard a ring on tuesday and get something sorted out :D

Cheers matt,
Last edited by appletree on Sat May 23, 2009 10:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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GeoffBob
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Post Sat May 23, 2009 10:26 pm

Matt,

Those pressure values are looking much better! Much more realistic. I don't think you can go wrong with a 0.6psi drop at 5000RPM. :D

There's definately something wrong with the temperature measurements though, and I think I know what it is. You have to take these measurements same way as the pressure measurements - At full throttle. The temperature to which the air is raised (as shown in the above graph) is a function of the pressure ratio across the compressor. If you start lifting off the throttle pedal in order to stabilise your engine speed (RPM) at some value, you'll lose boost and therefore the temperature of the air coming out of the compressor will drop. It's very important to realise that the pressure and temperature of the air coming out of the compressor go hand-in-hand.

Also, the objective is to measure the temperature of the air, not the pipe work or any other metal part, so this is quite a tricky measurement to make. If the probe is in thermal contact with any other part of the compressor or pipework, you won't measure the right ting.
Appletree wrote:Just to clarify non of the above makes any differance to the fact that i need a smaller charger?
'Fraid not. Chief reason for going for the smaller charger is to get you away from surge. I can't guarantee that you will even make 300hp, but you'll come close, and you'll do it without crossing the surge line. In particular, you won't have to worry about going into surge at part throttle, while the blow-off valve is still closed.
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Post Sat May 23, 2009 10:37 pm

GeoffBob wrote:Matt,

Appletree wrote:Just to clarify non of the above makes any differance to the fact that i need a smaller charger?
'Fraid not. Chief reason for going for the smaller charger is to get you away from surge. I can't guarantee that you will even make 300hp, but you'll come close, and you'll do it without crossing the surge line. In particular, you won't have to worry about going into surge at part throttle, while the blow-off valve is still closed.
Thought so, just wanted to check :cool:

I did try to get the temp probe in to the air flow bit i cant see if its goes in or not, i'll have a better look tomorrow and see if i can't come up with a better way. :D

Out of intrest geoff what are you running in your E30 is it turbo'd :lol:
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GeoffBob
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Post Sun May 24, 2009 11:00 am

appletree wrote:Out of intrest geoff what are you running in your E30 is it turbo'd :lol:
I'm not old enough to drive yet, but when I'm big I'd like a turboed E30... 8O

Just kidding, you're not actually taking advice from a spotty teen, but you never know on these forums.

My E30, or more accurately what's left of my E30, has a turbocharged Toyota 3SGTE 2litre (four cylinder) engine. I opted for the 3SGTE engine as it is the most highly race developed engine in the history of Toyota. It's one of the last cast-iron block engines, but is still relatively light due to its "ribbed" design. The 3SGTE was factory turbocharged with the Toyota CT26 (or was it the CT12, can't remember) and thus includes a set of oil injectors tapped into the oil galley which squirt oil up at the underside of the piston crown for additional cooling. The 3SGE and 3SFE engines did not have this feature. I replaced the Toyota turbocharger with a Garrett GT3267 after carefully studying the compressor and turbine maps of many, many different turbochargers.

Of course it's for all the stupid reasons that I was attracted to this engine. The inlet manifold is on the right, and the exhaust is on the left. Thus, I do not have the problem of the exhaust header colliding with the steering column. I manufactured my own inlet and exhaust manifolds in accordance with the work of Graham Bell. My car is for the track only, and so I aimed to get all my torque (and as much as possible) around 4500RPM to 6500RPM. You can see my car here http://www.e3024v.com/board/index.php?topic=514.0, but be warned, she doesn't look much like an E30 any more! She was built from parts from a 325i. I keep promising to introduce her to this forum one day, I'll get to it eventually.

Ironically, while I am a big fan of turbocharged engines, I prefer supercharged engines on road going cars and daily drivers. The smooth and predictable rise in boost makes for a much more comfortable ride. I am not a big fan of that sudden onset of turbo-boost that can break your wheel traction without warning (at least not on a road going car), especially if over a patch of water or loose sand on the road. Having said that, my daily driver is also turbocharged, so turbocharged cars have their place, but I do like supercharged engines on road cars more. I think now I may be showing my real age. I'll be off to buy a Honda next.
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Post Sun May 24, 2009 3:24 pm

That looks fun Geoff, what sort of power is it making. My m42 engine has the oil squirters to as standard which is good for an standard N/A engine thats in a low spec model realy.

Always loved R5GTT's if i didn't have an E30 i would have probably bought one my freinds got a realy nice one its running 23psi still on the 1.4 lump but its all been rebuilt for the power.

shame less pic :D
my mates R5 GTT!
Image


More results with the probes deffenatly in the flow and a run to get up to temp...

Day temp with them in place sat in garage slight difference in metres ,used 2 metres tested them at different temps and the were still 2'c out, 18'c on inlet side 20'c rotrex side

Plenum side.
Idle = 18'c
2k = 22'c
3k = 21'c
4k = 20'c
5k = 20'c
5.5k = 21'c

Rotrex outlet
1k = 20'c
2k = 26'c
3k = 31'c
4k = 40'c
5k = 48'c
5.5k = 56'c

Tested 3times and got the same values +/- 1'c all in 4th to give it sum time to build up temp :cool:
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GeoffBob
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Post Sun May 24, 2009 6:28 pm

She does around 335hp on a good day. All forged internals, standard head, sequential injection, sequential ignition, no mechanical waterpump (electric only), and just about everything on the engine under the control of the Adaptronic ECU, including the wastegate, waterpump and idle valve.

Still lots of fiddling going on, so the final result is still outstanding. I have to get her a new bonnet from France as the old one isn't working out. I plan to do some work on the body during our winter time when the humidity is low.

Matt, were these measurements at full throttle, or were you backing off the throttle in order to hold the revs?

Also, your blow-off-valve (BOV), are you using two lines to control it - one pressure and one vacuum? I was wondering if the reason your BOV is slow to respond is because you are only using a vacuum line from the plenum sucking on the one side of the BOV diaphragm. You should have pressure from the compressor outlet pushing on the other side of the BOV diaphram as well. Funny, most people ignore the pressure side of the BOV diaphragm, but if you want it to work properly you really should have both.

'Can definitely see that the intercooler is doing what it is supposed to, much cooler on the plenum side!

Nice R5GTT by the way. I can't help it, but I have a soft spot for the old R5turbos.
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Post Sun May 24, 2009 7:52 pm

Its this one but with no hose linkingback to the inlet of the charger so instead of it being atmospheric and recirc its just atmospheric.

Image

it only has one take off and thats vacume only.

i must admit when the first set of results with a 4psi drop came up i was a bit shocked, the cooler is massive, 3" deep, 600mm x 300mm so it should have been much better but i put the results down to the price of it and the fact it came off Ebay, thankfully it the new pressure and temp drop figures show that in actual fact its pritty good, after all it is quite well over speced.

The test was done for 3000rpm ( and for each other rpm step)

Pull in 3rd to 5krpm to get temp up
Brake quick
Pull in 4th to the desired RPM

Test track does have a incline so i tested going up that each time to give it the best chance of getting a long pull at a held rpm :D
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GeoffBob
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Post Sun May 24, 2009 8:47 pm

Doesn't make sense to me? If one side of the diaphragm is referenced to atmospheric pressure then the only way your BOV will open is when the pressure in your plenum falls below atmospheric, that is to say, pulls vacuum. With only one line to the BOV, you will definitely drive your compressor into surge at part throttle.

I guess it's possible that the turbosmart product has the one side of the diaphragm connected internally to the main air inlet to the BOV (ie, referenced to the compressor pressure).

Try the following please. Disconnect the vacuum line from the BOV. Plug the hose so your plenum isn't blowing off air. Leave the connection to the BOV open to atmospheric pressure. Now drive the car and try and make boost. If the other side of the BOV diaphragm is connected internally to the boost pressure, then the BOV will open and you won't be able to make boost. If it's referenced to atmospheric then it will be as if you have no BOV at all, so be careful to wind the throttle down slowly and avoid sending the compressor into surge. Try to work out which type of BOV you have and let me know.

I suspect that you need a different BOV - one that opens when there is a pressure differential across the throttle, not one that only opens when the pressure in the plenum goes below atmospheric.
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Post Mon May 25, 2009 2:49 pm

Appletree,

I had a close look at your data and have come to the following conclusions. Your intercooler is roughly 90% efficient and exhibits a pressure drop of around 15kPa per kg/s of airflow through it. That is to say, at an engine speed of 5300 RPM (a compressor speed of 70000 RPM) you will be drawing an airflow of around 0.14 kg/s, and thus experience a pressure drop of 2.1kPa or 0.3psi. This is in accordance with your measurements. Your intercooler is therefore around 3 times better than my initial worst case estimate.

It also means that it would take an airflow of 0.46kg/s through this intercooler to produce a pressure drop of 1psi. At an AFR of 12, this equates to roughly 600hp. So I think the manufacturer's claim that this intercooler is good for 500hp is a reasonable one, so long as you are going fast enough to supply the airflow necessary to keep the intercooler working.

Plugging your new and improved values into my model I have produced the attached graph. As a result of these improvements your current loadline (with the 100mm Rotrex pulley) is slightly further away from the surge line than I initially predicted. Unfortunately, not far enough away to make much of a difference.

I therefore conclude that, so long as you sort out your problem with surge at part throttle (which I believe you can do by installing the correct BOV) and so long as you do not reduce the size of the Rotrex pulley, you can keep your C30-94 compressor as is. While this is not an ideal solution, it is probably a workable one.

I would, however, recommend that, in order to operate the compressor at maximum efficiency, and to avoid surge, that you switch to a C30-84 compressor with an 80mm pulley. This really is the most intelligent solution IMO.

Please note that I do not recommend this in the interests of achieving more power, as you will not get this from a C30-84. If more power is what you are after, keep the C30-94 and fit it to a bigger engine, possibly an M50 (space permitting) whose airflow is ideally matched to this compressor.

Image

Below is the new loadline for a C30-84 with 80mm pulley fitted to your 1800cc engine. At an engine speed of 6600 RPM this compresor will spin at 110000RPM, unlike the C30-94 which will spin at 85000 RPM due to the difference in pulley ratios.

Image

With this configuration the C30-84 will be passing 0.22kg/s of air at a pressure ration of 2.37 and an engine speed of 6600 RPM (a compressor speed of 110000RPM). At an AFR of 12 this equates to 295hp. At this pressure ratio the compressor will consume roughly 24hp, so you can expect only 271hp available at the flywheel for your consumption.

However, if you are prepared to raise your engines redline to 7200RPM you will take the compressor to its rated 120000RPM at a pressure ratio of 2.62 and an airflow of 0.25kg/s. Your engine will thus make 335hp at a cost of 31hp to the compressor. That leaves you with 304hp. Will that do for you?

Personally, I think 270hp @ 6600RPM from an 1800cc engine is a pretty reasonable figure. The rest is just icing on the cake.
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Post Mon May 25, 2009 7:20 pm

Dont think ive ever seen a dump valve with two lines to it?

Mines not a diaphram type, its a piston type and the bottom of the piston is the 'valve' so does see the pressure of the pipe work going to the throttle.

It also has a tunable spring pushing the piston/valve on to the seat, against manifold pressure.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Theres deffinatly no internal link in the housing anywere :(

Are you suggesting i remove some of the spring pressure on the valve/seat so that the pipework pressure will lift the valve when it builds and gets to high like at part throttle?
:D
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appletree
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Post Mon May 25, 2009 10:24 pm

Think like you say its still going to be best to swop the chargers, the -94 could do more boost in the future but it would be unusable on my engine realy and i cant realy see me doing much more to the enigne after this build other than re-do some bits now i have new knowledge, like make the tensioner system neater and design a plenum with some theory behind it.

been thinking, to fit a 80mm pully i think i would need to either get a new belt, space the bracket off the block or make a new tesioner.

Even if the -84 map is 10% off as Richard suggest its going to be a better allround charge for the job thats reliable and still makes good power.

i was a bit reluctant to rev the engine past the origonal red line but after doing abit of reading of the corky bell book "superchargerd" he wrights that its increasing the rev limit of an enigne over simply increasing the boost that puts more strian on the engine but that on a standard crank a 10-15% increase will be fine with out having to upgrade the big ends or mains shells.

A 10% increase of my 6500rpm limit will bring 7260 which will get my goal or very close to it. however, i may eventually machine a new crank pully to make the charger reach its max RPM at the max enigne RPM of 6500 and bring the torque curve down a bit .

Its a shame that the charge wont be a streight swop as i had origonaly thought but if it works it works.

Out of intrest is it the "maximum boost" book that tells you about plenum design? i tryed to find some info about the design when i made mine but could not find much, and would like to have another go. :D

Ill give Richard a ring tomorrow and see whats what and will update tomorrow :D

Once again Geoff thanks for your help, hopefully once i can get the engine built up and in the car i can get the car remapped and post a dyno graph like you have predicted, which must be for you a proud moment! permission to look smug :D :D :lol: :lol:
Last edited by appletree on Mon May 25, 2009 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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GeoffBob
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Post Mon May 25, 2009 10:24 pm

I see. Not the sort that I am used to. From the looks of it, it is a brass piston that blocks the flow of air from the left to right side of the valve. It does not look to me like there is any positive pressure pushing against the underside of that brass piston to push the piston up, only vaccum from the plenum chamber (on the top side of the piston) to suck the piston upwards.

This means that it will only open when the pressure in the plenum chamber drops below atmospheric pressure.

I would suggest that you use something similar this:

Image

Air comes in through the bottom and out through the side. A poppet valve with o-ring seals the inlet closed until a differential pressure across the diaphragm causes it to open.

Image

This BOV has two control lines. One from after the throttle (to the top of the diaphragm) and one from before the throttle (to the underside of the diaphragm). When the throttle is wide open the pressure on both sides of the throttle (and thus on both sides of the diaphragm) are the same. The BOV is thus closed. However, as the throttle is progressively closed the pressure after the throttle drops lower than that before the throttle, and so the BOV opens.

Note that the pressure after the throttle doesn't have to drop below atmospheric in order to open the BOV, it just has to be lower than that before the throttle.

This BOV includes a screw which tightens a plate down on the spring in order to adjust the pre-load on the diaphragm, and thus control at what differential pressure the BOV begins to open.

Image
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Post Mon May 25, 2009 10:38 pm

Think you've slightly misunderstud how it works from looking at the black pipe.

The pipe is just there to direct air to a different place of the enigne bay and try and make the valve abit quiter.

The air comes up through the bottom against the piston and when theres vacume the piston moves up and the air exits both sides of the valve through the trumpet and the pipe.

it can be used as either a atmospheric or a part atmospheric part recirc for cars with air flow metres that need to see a recirc at idle like the VAG 1.8 20vt lumps in the vidio i havent put the trumpet back on the valve yet :D


[youtube][/youtube]
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