Top speed of the e30 chassis

[GrindCulture]

The look like 17" Azevs to me.

[g57yle]

18"

[GrindCulture]

close enough

[BadDave]

18"

There's no excuse for not fitting an adequate front setup then

you can get some 343's in there,possibly even some 355's and either 4 or 6 pots from Ap/Alcon/Wilwood or KAD

[MarkT]

i reckon you might need a bigger turbo than that gt35 to make it. i dont think 700bhp will manage . over 900bhp in a sierra and about 800+ in an escort to break 200mph.

If your thinking of Rod Tarrys sierra doing 200mph, it was using 850-900 bhp to do 200mph up Bruntingthorpe, so only 1.5 miles of accelerating and the rest is braking zone lol.

Depends if your after 200 on the autobahn or over the space of a mile and a half

[ShakeyC]

Unsure if GT35 on a 6 cylinder won't make same power as 4 cylinder (think about in terms of volume of air flow being consumed) Back to your questions e30 chassis is not bad however the saloon shape is by default not as aerodynamically stable compared to an estate or hatch shape, you would need lot of technical r&d to improve it at 150mph+ speeds very little changes like winglets makes huge difference at high speeds, add too much could just as easily restrict it to a certain speed. At very minimum you need a lower undertray/front splitter and rear spoiler of appropriate shape, size, area and maybe with some adjustability.

Regarding brakes there is absolutely no point going for budget brands or budget kits I would honestly only consider AP, Alcon or Compbrake and you will need to uprate the rears too they do more than most people think you want control and stability under heavy braking.

[BadDave]

Regarding brakes there is absolutely no point going for budget brands or budget kits I would honestly only consider AP, Alcon or Compbrake and you will need to uprate the rears too they do more than most people think you want control and stability under heavy braking.

If upgrading the rear's, it would be a good idea to fit an adjustable proportioning valve. to adjust line pressure to the rear calipers and fine tune the setup to prevent the rears locking up early

[ShakeyC]

A split auto/self propertioning bias valve should be used anyway

[shalmaneser]

WRT the CFD mentioned earlier; you can't do that on an e30, the modelling would be horrendous and then running the model takes days on professional mainframes even with simple components. would cost serious money and even then the results would have to be verified in a wind tunnel.

Your best bet from my basic knowledge of aero is to make sure the floor is totally flat undeneath, use thick ally plate bolted up real good.

Then you would want to get some linear sensors and attach them to your suspension and drive at say 160mph down a smooth straight road to figure out if you're getting front or rear lift.

Then once you know that it's adjustable spoilers/splitters front and rear that you can fiddle with after 170/180/190 etc etc runs to make sure the thing sticks to the ground!!!!

As far as making it more aero, taping up the seams in the bodywork, removing mirrors, removing wipers, anything to make the car more slippery. Consider covering the wheels, or vents from the front arches, as they create a lot of turbulance. Won't be great for the brakes though!

this is a good basic intro to aero...

http://www.autozine.org/technical_schoo ... o.htm#Drag

[ShakeyC]

Actually thought this might be useful for everyone regarding brake balance, static brake balance should be worked out and set to there-abouts using physical methods which is what your talking about BadDave.

Then there is setting up dynamic brake balance using bias valves, 90% of cars with such setups are incorrectly biased too far forward it stops great in a straight line without locking up which is fine but how often is the road perfectly level without camber, weather is the same, have new brake pads, discs and fluids everytime you brake? There is hundreds of variables constantly changing thats why you get static balance right first then constantly manually adjust the bias you cannot adjust it once for perfect conditions and forget about it.

With static balance done, to dynamically test the balance the way is to get up some speed say 50mph somewhere relatively flat with corners which safe and legal too, and GENTLY apply apply brakes whilst cornering whilst keeping throttle the same and judge what is happening to the car and the line you wish to take. If the car starts to tuck in tightening its line then thats an indication you have too much rear static balance, if the car starts to go wide/understeer then you have to much front static balance. With manual bias valve increase the speed by 10mph repeat but completely let of the throttle and just brake gently and adjust the bias valve by small amounts see what happens as temps go up. Ideally you want very slight hint of understeer, you want to know whats going to happen in an emergancy situation not to snap and spin you into nearest rooted object.

The above paragraph is a lot of effort and risk so by fitting a self propertioning bias valve removes the need to constantly adjust for best balance at low braking forces the valves typically operate 1:1 balance front to back but as you brake harder the valve automatically shift balance by usually upto 1:3 ratio above static. A cross directional auto/self bias valve even helps with camber changes and different surfaces bit better.

With say E30 which has been lowered and stiffened up i would not be suprised to see upto 40% braking force through the rear in certain conditions, a general rule of thumb is with less pitch and roll of the chassis it transfers out the forces in terms of dynamic balance. ps fwd and awd, front mid and rar engined cars all is different in terms of dynamic balance but the static theory remains the same.

[cypriot_boy_2k7]

how did u get them arches?

[e30bmlover]

lovley looking car mate but i have just one question...
if you are indeed doing speeds of 160+ why the @uck havent you got a boot spoiler on it to keep the ass down??

[blingsta]

im loving the bonnet Gary !

[Nuvolari]

it was suprisingly stable, but i am running full Z3M front and rear suspension along with KW V3 coilovers, i wouldnt have taken it to that speed unless it was stable, and it also felt very planted, iwould have been comfortable taking it round a long sweeping bend at those speeds

Can you post some info/pictures about this? Would like to have that on my E30.

[richard-the-nutter]

i think i would ease off when i heard the sonic boom

[g57yle]

lovley looking car mate but i have just one question...
if you are indeed doing speeds of 160+ why the @uck havent you got a boot spoiler on it to keep the ass down??

I have got another boot fitted with an M tec II spoiler. Not sure it makes a difference though, i was more concerned with ront end lift though..

[g57yle]

I'd suggest a decent setup on the front then fella
Nothing less than 330mm disk and bells with an absolute minimum of 4 pot calipers from AP/Alcon or Brembo
Preferably ones with a significant increase in pad area.

Rears should be ok as they don't really do that much anyway

You still haven't mentioned what diameter wheels you've got?

They will be the deciding factor on what you can fit

They are 18x10 all round.

I have Just got some brembos from an 850csi this fit straight on my e36 m3 evo hubs along with e46 m3 disks, just one problem, my 10j front wheels wont fit over them, i am 10mm out!
cant use spacers as my wheels will mash my arches up.

[BadDave]

I'd suggest a decent setup on the front then fella
Nothing less than 330mm disk and bells with an absolute minimum of 4 pot calipers from AP/Alcon or Brembo
Preferably ones with a significant increase in pad area.

Rears should be ok as they don't really do that much anyway

You still haven't mentioned what diameter wheels you've got?

They will be the deciding factor on what you can fit

They are 18x10 all round.

I have Just got some brembos from an 850csi this fit straight on my e36 m3 evo hubs along with e46 m3 disks, just one problem, my 10j front wheels wont fit over them, i am 10mm out!
cant use spacers as my wheels will mash my arches up.

Wilwood do a couple of 4 and 6 pot calipers with narrower bodies for a more compact package,alternatively, check out the Tech specs on both the Alcon and AP websites for possible alternatives.

[g57yle]

Im now running 4 pot brembo's with 345mm CSL brake disks

[maz894]

g, why have you got your 7.5j wheel in the last pick?

[g57yle]

g, why have you got your 7.5j wheel in the last pick?

Its 8.5J x 18 actually but look like space savers in comparison to my 10j's , the 10J's wouldnt clear the Brembos, i needed 10mm more, and the smallest spacers i have are 20mm and wheels dont exactly clear the arches with them fitted. i need 10mm spacers to give them a go, u got any?

[maz894]

Iv got a few washers you can put on there

[DHFiS]

i need 10mm spacers to give them a go, u got any?

12mm available here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tpi-wheel-spacers ... 563a6fbff3

[g57yle]

i need 10mm spacers to give them a go, u got any?

12mm available here

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tpi-wheel-spacers ... 563a6fbff3

Im running a 5 stud setup, and there a bit pricey