2.8 build

Post Mon Mar 03, 2008 3:39 pm

If the crank has the three threaded holes in the end web, it's a double Vanos type. The single Vanos cranks don't have the TDC trigger wheel and thus no holes. Non vanos cranks clear the later 8.8:1 pistons easily.

Post Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:37 am

Andyboy wrote:If the crank has the three threaded holes in the end web, it's a double Vanos type. The single Vanos cranks don't have the TDC trigger wheel and thus no holes. Non vanos cranks clear the later 8.8:1 pistons easily.

That might be true in Europe but in the US the M52 engines used in the 328i are OBD2 single Vanos thus they use the same TSC trigger wheel. I know for a fact that this crank came from a 1996 328is single vanos engine because I pulled the crank out of the engine myself.

In regard to the pistons, as mentioned before I have no intention of using them. Instead I plan on sourcing another set of US M20B25 pistions and milling the skirts to match the crank counterweights. To compensate I will be shaving the M52 crank counterweights by 5mm and then rebalance it.

Post Tue Mar 04, 2008 2:16 pm

Aah fair enough, sorry dude hadn't read the rest of the thread :lol:

Post Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:51 pm

Yeahy it runs!

Thanks very much to Ant for supplying the 2.8 chip to get me started!

Runs well and sound good. Started first time. First let the oil pressure build up without the sparks or ECU attached, then turn over a bit until the fuel pressure built up and off it went!

I just have two little issues. The water pump some times makes a horrid noise and when I pull up to junction is stalls. I've only been once around the village so it may just need a bit of running in. I'll be out for a longer drive tomorrow

Looks like I may have defect water pump but I'll see what happens after a bit of a longer drive.

Thank you to every one for all the advice, and to Andyboy for the 2.8 conversion idea in the first place and advice during the build.

Post Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:21 pm

Congratulations!!!!!

Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:12 am

Ritalin_Kid wrote:
Andyboy wrote:If the crank has the three threaded holes in the end web, it's a double Vanos type. The single Vanos cranks don't have the TDC trigger wheel and thus no holes. Non vanos cranks clear the later 8.8:1 pistons easily.
That might be true in Europe but in the US the M52 engines used in the 328i are OBD2 single Vanos thus they use the same TSC trigger wheel. I know for a fact that this crank came from a 1996 328is single vanos engine because I pulled the crank out of the engine myself.

In regard to the pistons, as mentioned before I have no intention of using them. Instead I plan on sourcing another set of US M20B25 pistions and milling the skirts to match the crank counterweights. To compensate I will be shaving the M52 crank counterweights by 5mm and then rebalance it.

Good for you. We'll wait for the bang.

Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:57 pm

My 2.8 is going in as we speak

Nightmare of a day though, windy and intermittently p!ssing down

Cheers,

Iain T

Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 2:08 pm

Indeed! It's just stopped raining here. I'm hoping it will dry up so I can go for a drive!

Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 6:24 pm

Done 55 miles today and all seems to be well, very happy despite the hairy cam it pulls incredibly well and the noise through tunnels is fantastic, I just need to find some longer tunnels now. The water pump still makes a bit of a noise sometimes. The idle seems to have sorted itself out as the engine doesn't die as you come to a stop - changing all the way down seems to keep it more settled

After how many miles do you think I should swap the oil for the first time? I've used some cheaper stuff initially while all the new shells wear in.

Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 6:40 pm

let your eyes be your guide on when to change the oil dude

if anything picks up, its easily spotted, I usually check the dipstick "colour" every 100 miles and change just as the oil darkens ( normally 800 miles or so )

Dont forget, plenty of rise/fall in the revs , I recommend a 4K limit for 250 miles then 500 rpms thereafter unless its all built factory tight,or into a bore B20 block , then its 4K for 800 then 500 increments up to the redline ( sorry, I know teaching you to suck egss... )

re the w/pump, I had one from GSF a while back and the impellor was actually touching the inner block wall @ no 1 cylinder upon inspection, that made a similar noise to what you've described Patrick, needless to say , it was removed( fitted by the owner iirc)

Post Fri Mar 28, 2008 6:54 pm

Thanks Ant, I've been taking it easy so far, don't think its seem more than 4k yet

I'll check the oil quite often.

Looks like I'll have to send that water pump back!

Post Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:58 pm

Was out for a drive today and made a short video, either on our site in high res: http://www.msportster.co.uk/

Or on YouTube:

I can't wait to run it in, it feels like your only just getting to the power as you hit 4k RPM although it pulls damn well up to that point

Post Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:15 pm

Very nice indeed!

Post Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:59 am

JazzMan wrote:Was out for a drive today and made a short video, either on our site in high res: http://www.msportster.co.uk/

Or on YouTube:

I can't wait to run it in, it feels like your only just getting to the power as you hit 4k RPM although it pulls damn well up to that point

how much does your car weigh?

Post Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:37 am

Hey guys.. I was able to get all my US spec parts problems squared away.

You can check out the pictures of my progress so far on r3vlimited

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=106863

Post Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:32 pm

reggid wrote:
JazzMan wrote:Was out for a drive today and made a short video, either on our site in high res: http://www.msportster.co.uk/

Or on YouTube:

I can't wait to run it in, it feels like your only just getting to the power as you hit 4k RPM although it pulls damn well up to that point
how much does your car weigh?

850Kg ish

Still needs paint!

Post Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:40 pm

Fantastic! Video made me laugh - cheers! I'm enjoying my holiday!

Post Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:19 pm

Yet another nice car!

The zone is turning into something of a tarts paradise these days :lol:

Enjoy!

Post Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:12 am

Someone find me a wall to bash my head against

Was out for a drive yesterday as it was still sunny, unfortunately the engine over heated after 30 miles - only for a very short period of time maybe 30 second before I noticed. Let it cool but it seized up - balls.

Been towed home (not too far luckily) so this weekend will be take the engine to bits again time!

Took the plugs out and it is possible to turn it over with a big spanner and push it in gear, but won't run on the start (I was still warm at the time).

So I'm hoping it's not too bad. Ran fine for 250 miles (not going past the 4k mark!)

Ant, may as well put MS on hold until I figure out what went wrong and if I'm sticking with it. I suspect I may need that cash for bits now.

Post Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:46 am

Oh sh!t, bad luck buddy

Hope it's an easy fix

If you need any pistons and rings I have a spare set here for sale.

Cheers,

Iain T

Post Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:48 am

Thanks I'll keep that in mind. I'm hoping it's just something simple but I won't know till I have some time to take a few things off it.

Post Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:36 am

Gutted to hear that for you dude!! Hope its its an easy fix like you say

Post Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:36 pm

Had a short time to take a look over lunch - I can hand crank it fairly easily now, it does seem to get a little notchy in places.

Also the starter can turn the engine over however I have to hand crank it a few time first.

I did noticed the oil pressure went really high after a few turns of the starter so maybe I have a blockage somewhere.

Post Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:47 pm

Thermostat is fine, water pump seems to be pumping OK, but not pull it out yet (rad is in the way). Oil in the bottom was quite dark but not clumpy. Oil in the top was still quite light.

When you crank the engine on the starter a few seconds the oil pressure goes way way up - I stopped at 6 bar.

So me thinks there's a blockage somewhere. Not pulled the sump off yet, but that's the next step.

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:44 am

Bummer man..

Does the 2.8 build use 325i pistons? If so it's not likely to have picked up and damaged the block/pistons/rings at least.

Hope you get to the bottom of it soon mate.

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:48 am

Yeah it's using standard 2.5 pistons (later type).

Given the oil pressure shoots up way to high it's almost certainly a blockage somewhere. First thing I plan to do check the return.

I checked the oil before going out and it was still a nice clean colour.

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:14 pm

Perhaps is stalled from hydraulic lock then? Check the pressure relief valve in the oil pump? At this point I'd personally fit a new pump anyway myself through paranoia!

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:46 pm

Some progress this evening

On inspecting the sump it turns out the ring terminal for the earth strap has broken, it was in place so that you could not see it had broken. There was a bit of contact but not much. This is the cause of the high oil pressure. Not much earth gauge OK when you put it on ignition 2, run the starter and it screws that up so the pressure goes up. Disconnect it and no earth = gauge on highest setting.

The also means the starter does not run properly as it doesn't get enough power.

Took the sump off. No obvious marks in any of the bores from the bottom. Push in the oil return and the oil runs out fine, oil pump seems to be OK.

Added a temp earth strap and now the starter runs fine turning the engine over without any problems (no plugs) - no odd sounds from it either.

Hypothesis is airlock (driving up hill), overheat and then unable to run anything due to the earth strap.

Seizing probably due to small tolerances and overheat. Need to pull a cap off check a shell for damage.

Doesn't look as bad now as it did initially. I'm going to do have more of a look around, get a genuine water pump from BMW as the one I have makes a noise and a new sump gasket, new oil and filter and see how it goes.

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:19 pm

Gutted for you Patrick

re the MS, no bother at all dude

keep posting up your findings, will certainly be of benifit to others, if not yourself

With regards to your PM, FOC for that

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:34 pm

Thanks Ant

I'll keep posting. All part of doing this stuff for the first time I guess! At least the M20 seems to be a pretty strong engine. I hope I've not damaged the crank.

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:27 pm

Did it definately seize, or is it possible the lack of decent earth ruined the charge and the spark failed, then felt like a seize when the starter wouldn't turn it over?

Just an optimistic guess!

Post Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:34 pm

I'm pretty sure it did as we tried to push it in gear and it wouldn't move so something was preventing it from turning over. Only once it cooled down what's it possible to push it after we got it home. I'll have time to take a closer look at the weekend see if the shells are OK.

Post Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:16 pm

Gutted for you bud, hope its all ok and sorted quickly.

Andy

Post Sat Apr 12, 2008 2:35 pm

Taken the water pump out, it looks fine. No damage or wear marks.

Also taken several main bearing caps off and checked the shells. They all look OK slowly starting to wear off the protective layer - no obvious damage or marks that point to a serious issue.

Next step is reassembly, new earth strap, new oil and a new filter. Hopefully it will run OK again.

Post Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:13 pm

Engine runs again

Let the oil pressure come up on the starter again without plugs. It was tad rough to start with as it tends to be.

Turns out the fan temp sensor switch is broken which is why the fan wouldn't run when it was hot.

So the problems were dodgy earth, broken fan switch and the starter stayed engaged.

Solutions: New earth strap, new fan switch on order, greased starter mechanism, new oil, new filter.

I may need a new starter, the alternator could do with being replaced as well.

All in all lucky escape I think.

Once I have new bits I'll be able to take it for a run make sure it OK over a longer period.