m30 conversion progress and questions

[beefy]

yeah i have the main power lead to the fusebox.

Ill check the starter motor wiring. Is there anyway i can check other than visually check wires.

[Brianmoooore]

It's such a simple circuit it's difficult to make suggestions!
Does the ignition switch do anything? If it does it's just a single black/yellow wire through a plug and socket clipped to the steering column, through a plug and socket above the glovebox (assuming it's not an auto), and through the C101 engine loom plug and socket.
You could try shorting together pins 11 and 14 of the diagnostic connector, to see if this engages the starter motor.

[beefy]

ok ill try and chase this wire. This plug and socket above the gearbox i guess this will be part of the engine loom? I cant recall seeing one there i know there is a few plug and sockets next to the starter motor on that side of the engine block could it be one of these maybe its come unplugged

[beefy]

i shorted pins 11 and 14 and the starter motor turned so thats ok.

There was a plug next to the starter motor that wasnt fully connected so i pluged it in, now i have all ignition lights.

Looked under the steering wheel and the ignition wire (black/yellow) had been cut and joined to some kind of imobiliser so i rejoined this.

the engine now turned over when i turned the key but wont start.

Traced more of these dodgy imobilsor wires and found a black box, the wires coming from this are connected to a live, and an immobilsor key port and nothing else.

I cant hear the fuel pump, so i checked the supply and return of the injector and no fuel at all there.

So i figure i have a problem with the fuel pump,

how can i check it?
Which relay controls?
and can i short the pins to get it to work?
What coulur wires and were will they go to so i can check them?

There is also a yellow isnt connected to anything and isnt part of the main loom it goes thro the bulk head and down the passanger side of the car?

[Brianmoooore]

Fuel pump only runs when the crankshaft is turning, and the lack of fuel may be just a side effect of it not starting.
Check for power on the + terminal of the ignition coil when the ignition switch is turned on.

[beefy]

will the plus side be marked up iirc there is two wires goin to the coil. Sorry if im asking daft questions its just i dont really know a great deal

[beefy]

just checked and i have 12 volts on both terminals on the ignition coil with the ignition turned on.

I really think its something to do with the fuel pump.

[Brianmoooore]

If you think that the problem is the fuel pump, then that's easily checked by 'hot wiring' it.
Pull out the orange fuel pump relay and short together pins 30 and 87 of its base with a short piece of wire. This should make the fuel pump run, as long as there isn't an engaged immobiliser between here and the fuel pump.
If the fuel pump doesn't run check (with a 12 volt bulb) that there's power at the relay, by connecting the bulb between pin 30 and a rocker cover nut.
If the bulb lights there, pull up the rear seat base and connect the bulb between the green/purple wire and either of the brown wires at a plug and socket tucked under the steel tube on the RH side of the seat pan. If the bulb lights there and the fuel pump isn't running, then the pump might well have failed.

[ric325i]

are you sure its fuel? if the thing isnt cranking over at all sounds like its not a full circuit - but i have no idea about electrics.
andy did all that for me and there was nothing too much to do its mostly plug and play. i had one extra wire from the loom to the starter but i attached that after i had started the car.

i spent ages tring to find why mine would not start but when it did my home town shook with noise!

keep looking man, i have spent lots of hours searching on different engines to why it wont start and then its the easy thing that was missed off. its just finding it. keep at it

[beefy]

wohoo just got it started.

I jumped pins 30 and 87 and could hear the fuel pump.

But the relay i pulled out was white and the one next to is orange. Thought thats not right the fuel pump one is supposed to be orange, and the wiring to them wasnt right as one pocket has 4 and the other 5. So i had the 4 pin relay into the 5 wired socket.

So swapped the relays round and it started first time no problem.

So at some stage of me removing and fitting the engine i must of swapped there round for some reason dont have a clue why or how.

[beefy]

thanks for all your wiring help brian cheers

[gooner1]

Congratulations mate.

[Brianmoooore]

With the relays the wrong way around, the ECU wouldn't get its main 12 volts + power feed, although the fuel pump relay and the injectors would be powered.

[beefy]

or ok cheers brian.

The end is near although i wont be doing much on it over xmas but only the prop and exhaust to do now.

[jaffro]

im trying 2 get a prop 2. what route u thinking of taking prop wise?

[beefy]

custom job as i have both props here and think i can get the work done local at the same place as ric325i got his done.

[jaffro]

keep us posted how you go on then cos im going to need 1 aswell. and there is nowere that i no of down here

[jaffro]

what are the best props to use to join together.

[jaffro]

will my e34 prop marry up with my 325 rear end if i get it shortend a balanced

[gareth]

yes. assuming it's a E34 M30 manual prop

[jaffro]

yeh it is mate. i found a place 10 mins drive from me that can do the work. but i just needed to make sure i could use the e34 front end. just 2 measure it then aghh

[gareth]

get the engine / box all fitted up, offer both ends of the prop up and measure / mark accordingly. there's some adjustment in the length on the splined section so it doesn't need to be ultra precise.

[jaffro]

cheers mate hopefully they will be in 2moz. its not so much fun doing it on your own haha

[gooner1]

cheers mate hopefully they will be in 2moz. its not so much fun doing it on your own haha

Tell me about it!!!!!!!!!!

[jaffro]

what gearbox mount do i need as mine was a auto mount?

[gooner1]

Have a look on realoem jaffro,not sure if thee is any difference between auto and manual mounts .Its the 325i mount youneed , i think.

[jaffro]

mine was a 320 auto. got engine a box in what a pig to do a bloody tight fit.

[gooner1]

Iknow mate, ive tried twice with a hiab and just cant get the angle right to get engine and box fitted together.
Going to have one more try tomorrow with rear of car jacked right up, if that fails im going to split the box from the block, cos its doing my feckin head in

[jaffro]

my crane only just goes high enough but i had the car backed up ramps so that made it easier still not found a gear linkage yet though.

[gooner1]

Was thinking of raising rear and removing front wheels but not sure if front would then be too low to slide g/box under. Dont you have any scrappies near you mate, would have thought the linkage was the easiest part to scource?

[jaffro]

yes but they have none in even the bmw breakers near me has none. i left front wheels on and it went in just

[gareth]

you can get the engine from below though i think from above with he box on is the easiest. theos went in easily enough like this. mine was from below and took longer. the front valence also needs 850mm clearance from memory, that's a long way up!

[gooner1]

Cheers gareth, think it would be just as quick to seperate the box. Just want it in there now.

[jaffro]

typical my load leveller has just turned up after 4 weeks great eh

[Theo]

Cheers gareth, think it would be just as quick to seperate the box. Just want it in there now.

You'd be wrong!

Me and Driftboy (Martin) had a 'mare trying to fit his gearbox to the engine which was already in place. All in one go is best, remove the PAS pump beforehand though.