That's why I'm reasonably confident it'll work......in principal
Twin Seq. Dry sumping for beginners :D
Moderator: martauto
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
That's why I'm reasonably confident it'll work......in principal
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
Not touched it since the piccies I'm afraid
Bloody work!
What I thought was that I could make just the log part and then cut holes out of it as you say. Gave me less to think about at a time than trying to fit everything up in one go
What I thought was that I could make just the log part and then cut holes out of it as you say. Gave me less to think about at a time than trying to fit everything up in one go
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
Hooray! A little bit of progress over the weekend:
Made the other side of the large collector:

Made up the transition piece from the divertor assembly to the T3 flange:


And here's the whole lot assembled together.

The flap is to be housed within the middle two of the four plates half way up the assembly. I've done it this way so that it can be easily removed if (when) it goes wrong.
Next thing to do is to cut a hole in the top of the log so this tree type thing can be welded in place along with the internal channels.
Incidentally, for anyone wondering, you can get a 2 1/2" piece of tube to very neatly match the hole in a T3 flange if you crush the tube to match the long sides, tack them in place, then crush the tube to match the short sides and tack them in place. That leaves the corners a few mm out but now it's all rigidly tacked in place, you can just drift them into position, shrinking the metal as you go. Very neat and tidy
Made the other side of the large collector:

Made up the transition piece from the divertor assembly to the T3 flange:


And here's the whole lot assembled together.

The flap is to be housed within the middle two of the four plates half way up the assembly. I've done it this way so that it can be easily removed if (when) it goes wrong.
Next thing to do is to cut a hole in the top of the log so this tree type thing can be welded in place along with the internal channels.
Incidentally, for anyone wondering, you can get a 2 1/2" piece of tube to very neatly match the hole in a T3 flange if you crush the tube to match the long sides, tack them in place, then crush the tube to match the short sides and tack them in place. That leaves the corners a few mm out but now it's all rigidly tacked in place, you can just drift them into position, shrinking the metal as you go. Very neat and tidy
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
Did you get my rubbings Tbrown?
Ooh err.
Apparently my parents forwarded me a hand written envelope last week so it should get to me today I guess. Forgot to tell them I was going back to do some work and pick up mail and things
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
Bugger, got both turbos in the car this weekend and forgot to bring the camera 
Was only fleeting as the larger tubby's collector was just tacked in place but it felt like a victory.
Just gotta do all the internal baffling now and then I can seam weld it all up
Was only fleeting as the larger tubby's collector was just tacked in place but it felt like a victory.
Just gotta do all the internal baffling now and then I can seam weld it all up
Are they split pulse turbos? Are you planning to seperate cylinders 1-3 from 4-6?
jk
jk
E30 320i Rally Turd - Usually broken
E24 635Csi - Rotting in peace for now
E34 540i - Daily driver
Blown R1 Striker - In progress
E24 635Csi - Rotting in peace for now
E34 540i - Daily driver
Blown R1 Striker - In progress
he´s going to run a bi sequental setup,
one will create low end boost, then the second one will take over to maintain said boost at the high end,
This is probably going to be the BEST M20 turbo kit ever built.
The response / lack of lag will be out of this world. The power delivery will be crisp and will never stop until you hit the revlimit.
I can imagine he´ll be getting max boost from 2k and upwards.
When I move over to the UK, I´m taking a personal road trip to see and sit in this thing.
one will create low end boost, then the second one will take over to maintain said boost at the high end,
This is probably going to be the BEST M20 turbo kit ever built.
The response / lack of lag will be out of this world. The power delivery will be crisp and will never stop until you hit the revlimit.
I can imagine he´ll be getting max boost from 2k and upwards.
When I move over to the UK, I´m taking a personal road trip to see and sit in this thing.
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
He he, sounds like you're more confident in this thing working than I am Gunni 
The H1C has a split pulse housing and 1-3 and 4-6 are indeed kept seperate which to an extent means that the HX27 also gets a split pulse type affair
The H1C has a split pulse housing and 1-3 and 4-6 are indeed kept seperate which to an extent means that the HX27 also gets a split pulse type affair
Cool, I wouldn't fancy the job of trying to weld the baffles into that manifold though
jk
jk
E30 320i Rally Turd - Usually broken
E24 635Csi - Rotting in peace for now
E34 540i - Daily driver
Blown R1 Striker - In progress
E24 635Csi - Rotting in peace for now
E34 540i - Daily driver
Blown R1 Striker - In progress
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
I've cut a big hole in the top to allow the fitment of the large collector so most of them can go in then.
For the really difficult to access areas, I'll drill a series of smallish holes along the side of the outer skin and weld through to the baffle
For the really difficult to access areas, I'll drill a series of smallish holes along the side of the outer skin and weld through to the baffle
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
Yip doo!
More progress this weekend:
The turbos mounted on the tacked together manifold:



The tacked fannymold in the car just to make sure the biggun fits:

Which it just about does. Think I might need some vents when I eventually get around to making a new bonnet: The standard lid does shut though so I might not bother with the venting:



And finally once I was happy that everything would fit, the process of seam welding could begin. The little copper pipe coming out is there to supply shield gas to the rear of the welds.


More progress this weekend:
The turbos mounted on the tacked together manifold:



The tacked fannymold in the car just to make sure the biggun fits:

Which it just about does. Think I might need some vents when I eventually get around to making a new bonnet: The standard lid does shut though so I might not bother with the venting:



And finally once I was happy that everything would fit, the process of seam welding could begin. The little copper pipe coming out is there to supply shield gas to the rear of the welds.


Last edited by Turbo-Brown on Sun Sep 02, 2007 10:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
Andy335Touring
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 7144
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Long Eaton,Nottingham
- Contact:
Tidy welds mate 
- Kos
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 15546
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: London / Cyprus
- Contact:
turbo damper neede maybe ??
PUKAR DESIGNS - Reproduction BMW Decals Labels Sticker & Number Plates
www.pukardesigns.com
www.facebook.com/pukar.designs/
IG Pukar.Designs
www.pukardesigns.com
www.facebook.com/pukar.designs/
IG Pukar.Designs
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
That's probably a good point about the paint, lots of heat shielding might be an idea!
the welds are getting better as I practice 

Cheers dudes
Indeed, the H1C needs something like a crane coming off the top of the engine if nothing's to breakturbo damper neede maybe ??
Cheers dudes
are there any bits you aren't making Alex?Turbo-Brown wrote:
Think I might need some vents when I eventually get around to making a new bonnet:
welding looks beautiful
and that bloody holset is huuuge. what spec/size is it? that thing looks like the right size for my car, i really ought to put a proper turbo on before that monkey metal XS power thing comes apart at the seams and the engine ingests it
looking very cool anyway mate.

-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
He he, how's it going Toby? 
It's a H1C with an 18 cm^2 turbine housing. Don't really know much about the thing other than that it'll do over 450bhp, and that's all I'm interested in
One of the guys at work reckons it'd be fairly straight forward to make glass fibre bonnets and possibly wings. There is a reason behind this though and that's to lose some weight from the nose as those tubbys ain't light
It's a H1C with an 18 cm^2 turbine housing. Don't really know much about the thing other than that it'll do over 450bhp, and that's all I'm interested in
One of the guys at work reckons it'd be fairly straight forward to make glass fibre bonnets and possibly wings. There is a reason behind this though and that's to lose some weight from the nose as those tubbys ain't light
450bhp will do meTurbo-Brown wrote: Don't really know much about the thing other than that it'll do over 450bhp, and that's all I'm interested in
One of the guys at work reckons it'd be fairly straight forward to make :

-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
The heat's gott go somewhere though and keeping it in the housings is going to cause them problems I fear.
That turbo is bigger than my Head! This is genious, just showed my brother it and he laughed at the sheer craziness.
As Gunni said, this is going to be an incredible setup. Guess you are going to put Mr Walker up to the test of fine tuning this one?
Has the 205 mi16 turbo project come to a halt as I can't see any updates
As Gunni said, this is going to be an incredible setup. Guess you are going to put Mr Walker up to the test of fine tuning this one?
Has the 205 mi16 turbo project come to a halt as I can't see any updates
Looking good Alex! Just cut a slot in the bonnet and have the compressor poke through slightly, I think Limmets does that.
Just for info, the H1C spools fully @ 3.3k, you get boost from 2.7k but it starts slowly and builds to full very smooth. I've managed a full WOT run now and I've found you need to be aggresive with the throttle to get the best of of it. It will be good to see how your little HX27 performs before the H1C gets going.
My only concern is high IAT temps, I've managed 18'c increase in about 10 secs
so a bigger IC, charges pipes and a vent is needed.
One thing I know for sure is I need MORE BOOST!!

Mark.
Just for info, the H1C spools fully @ 3.3k, you get boost from 2.7k but it starts slowly and builds to full very smooth. I've managed a full WOT run now and I've found you need to be aggresive with the throttle to get the best of of it. It will be good to see how your little HX27 performs before the H1C gets going.
My only concern is high IAT temps, I've managed 18'c increase in about 10 secs
One thing I know for sure is I need MORE BOOST!!
Mark.
-
Turbo-Brown
- Boost Junkie
- Posts: 4705
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Aldershot, Hants
- Contact:
Yeah, I've been giving a bit of thought to the charge cooling.
I'm pretty sure I wanna make / use a charge cooler for this one to keep the inlet system as compact as possible i.e. the air just goes up and over the engine rather than round the front of the car.
I'm debating whether to use an IC with the water going through where the air used to, or whether to get some radiator core and use that instead. I rather fancy that the rad core would be more efficient at cooling, but also give more of a pressure drop.
The bonnet does actually shut and the housing doesn't touch it so I'm not too worried unless the engine moves a lot.
Engine mounts! Must think about engine mounts this time!

I'm pretty sure I wanna make / use a charge cooler for this one to keep the inlet system as compact as possible i.e. the air just goes up and over the engine rather than round the front of the car.
I'm debating whether to use an IC with the water going through where the air used to, or whether to get some radiator core and use that instead. I rather fancy that the rad core would be more efficient at cooling, but also give more of a pressure drop.
The bonnet does actually shut and the housing doesn't touch it so I'm not too worried unless the engine moves a lot.
Engine mounts! Must think about engine mounts this time!
I hope that spool times aren't going to be an issue with this setupKeeping it in the turbine housing and manifold will help in spool-up, once its into the exhaust it shouldnt be a problem.
Pulled a motor on a twin turbo van engine the other day, took some pics, bit of useless info but I thought it sort of related to your monster
Its a Borg-Warner setup, this vans only pushing 150hp but there is no turbo lag, quite nice to drive. Not great pics, with my mobile.

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09

Shot with SAMSUNG at 2007-07-09






