m30 conversion progress and questions

Post Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:29 pm

Beefy, if you look directly above the HT leads in the photo ,you can just about make out the sensors. Cant remember which is which off the top of me head. As for the silencers , i havent got a clue mate.

Post Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:50 pm

ok cheers mate looks like its in the thermo housing, thanks.

Post Thu Nov 22, 2007 7:48 pm

1. agreed

2. i used a hybrid of the M30 hoses and M20 ones to connect to the tank. jsut some jubilee clips and pipe connectors needed and the joins are hidden under the inlet manifold

3. on the thermostat housing, behind / near the dizzy cap. both the M20 and M30 have blue temp senders (for the ECU) the other sender (next to it used for the dash temperature gauge) will be a single pin on a M20, two pin on a M30. this is the one that needs swapping back to the M20 one.

4. on the bottom right of the instument cluster iirc

Post Thu Nov 22, 2007 8:47 pm

ok thanks for that gareth appreciate it.

So the next thing is the exhaust design what are my options? and can i use the 535 first silencer which is connected to the down pipes and build from there. Or just chop it off and build straight through pipes to a big back box to quiten it down.

Post Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:05 pm

gareth wrote: the other sender (next to it used for the dash temperature gauge) will be a single pin on a M20, two pin on a M30

Just to add a bit of further confusion, some E30s apparently had two pin brown temp senders, which were earthed through pin 20 of the C101.
This was the reason for the loom fire I had, after a recent engine swap, which is now stickied at the top of this forum.

Post Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:03 pm

good call brian!

beefy, you're probably best off cutting the pipes and making an exhaust up from there. mine mate to the M3 system aboout 2" behind the wishbone lollypop on the original M3 flange.

Post Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:17 pm

went to scrap yard today i got m20 coding plug, both temp sensors from stat housing, reverse light switch, coolant pipe from header tank to stat to heater, and an obc with loom and temp sensor all for a tenner what a bargain.

I mounted the header tank and piped all the coolant pipes up when i got back.

Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 10:37 am

which fuel pipe goes were the one on the car that goes through the filter im guessing is the feed? So which pipe does it go to on the engine.

Will my 318is fuel pump be ok.

Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:57 pm

The fuel pipe from the filter is the feed and goes direct to the fuel rail. The return pipe connects to the regulator.
iS pump will be fine.

Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 4:06 pm

beefy wrote:went to scrap yard today i got m20 coding plug, both temp sensors from stat housing, reverse light switch, coolant pipe from header tank to stat to heater, and an obc with loom and temp sensor all for a tenner what a bargain.

That is a bargain!
Stick the obc on Ebay and make a tidy profit!

Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:38 pm

i know feel like ive robbed him

So brian below the inlet manifold the two pipes the feed goes to which one closest to bulk head or the other one

Cheers

Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:07 pm

No idea! I don't have a M30 here.
The pipe from the FPR is the return pipe.

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:32 pm

can some one help i cant remember and i didnt make a note of were all the wires went in the engine bay.

The main being there is two wires coming from the same part of the loom as the ignition coil there black with round connectors so i dont if there live or earth,

Also it would help if just knew exactly what needs an earth and what needs a live,

Thanks

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 4:02 pm

These sound like the main power feed and earth for the engine loom. The black is only an outer sheath on the wires, so roll back the rubber sleeves on the end so that you can see the colour of the actual wire.

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 4:28 pm

why are you asking about wires?!?!? i have no idea about them so i cant help.

sorry i didnt pop round i got busy and had a small bump in my volvo

wheel damaged mainly so it ain too bad.

i know with the fuel pipes i got them the wrong way round which stopped me from starting the engine. switch them and vvvvroooom (sorry)

the wires your talking about are they for the starter motor?

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 4:50 pm

just done that brian ones brown the other is brown and orange. So are these both earths

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 4:56 pm

Brown and brown/orange are both earths - but I would have expected to find red and brown/orange!
Sure that your brown is not a brownish red?

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:06 pm

yep its defo brown

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:10 pm

Check it with a meter for resistance between the this 'brown' wire and the red on the main DME relay.
There must be a live red wire to the engine loom somewhere!

Post Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:53 pm

well at the end of the loom near the ecu plug theres a live about 4 red wires on one round connector is this the live you mean

Post Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:28 am

no worries ric, i was just asking as i was unsure if the wires near the coil are earths or live. The starter i need a longer wire to connect it to the live.

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 4:29 pm

help please went to fire the big six up today and nothing happened! Im sure i have all the wiring right but i must be missing something.

There isnt even any clicks or no sound from the fuel pump.

I have power there as the lights etc work. But on the dash i only have the oil pressure light on when i turn the key im sure they all should light up then go out is this correct.

Any ideas anyone?

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 6:29 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Check it with a meter for resistance between the this 'brown' wire and the red on the main DME relay.
!

All the symptoms of the main engine loom power feed missing.

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:03 pm

so would the main engine loom power feed be about 4 red wires on a round connector which on the 5 series was next to the the ecu,

and not on the other main power point were the starter is feed from and with the jump lead connection on the top.

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:18 pm

What do you mean by 'round connector'?

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:27 pm

This at the top of the pick, my pen knife is pointing too it, IIRC it is a constant postive distribution point for the relays(and may be some other stuff?).

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:28 pm

just a crimp connector which the wires are crimped on to which goes over a bolt through the hole and a nut to hold it there.

i ask as i dont have a multimeter

i need to source one

ill put some piccys up

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:30 pm

yeah thats the one i have a live going to that, illl have to find a meter and check i have volts there.

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:47 pm

That's the main power connector. Check that it's live.
Depending on your battery set up, there may be a (blown) fusible link in the circuit.

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:00 pm

ok cheers for the help brian.

Does they need to be a fuse in this wire?

Post Sat Dec 08, 2007 11:56 pm

beefy wrote:ok cheers for the help brian.

Does they need to be a fuse in this wire?

The fusible link is only present on E30s that have rear mounted batteries. Goes straight to battery + with front mounted batteries.

Post Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:19 am

hi there is 12volts on the main supply, any other checks or things i can do to help diagnose the problem.

Post Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:26 am

Have you checked for power with a 12 volt lamp or a meter? A meter on an unloaded circuit doesn't give meaningful results.
Do you mean the engine doesn't even crank?
You have remembered the engine to chassis earth lead, haven't you?

Post Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:09 am

yeah the engine doesnt even crank, dont get all lights on dash.

Defo have earth from engine to chassis.

I checked it with a meter

Post Mon Dec 10, 2007 10:17 am

The starter motor circuit is very simple (black/yellow wire from ignition switch to starter motor) and doesn't depend on a live feed to the engine loom.
Whatever the problem is, it's going to be fairly basic! Have you connected the main red power feed to the E30 fusebox?