M20b29 build
Moderator: martauto
hello people:) very happy with the times:)
let me know your thoughts about the times.
unfortunately in Cyprus we only have 0 -300 meters.
0-402 was under hard braking and it was 13.77 (see below)
0 - 100km : 5.48 seconds
let me know your thoughts about the times.
unfortunately in Cyprus we only have 0 -300 meters.
0-402 was under hard braking and it was 13.77 (see below)
0 - 100km : 5.48 seconds
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Last edited by cyman1988 on Mon Mar 29, 2021 5:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
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steve_k
- E30 Zone Team Member
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Looks like it's turning into a serious build,
I love these type of threads,
Keep it coming, can't wait to see the final finished item.
I love these type of threads,
Keep it coming, can't wait to see the final finished item.
if it's got t*ts or wheels it's bound to be trouble...............prove me wrong.
getting oral sex off an ugly person is like rock climbing.....don't look down ;)
getting oral sex off an ugly person is like rock climbing.....don't look down ;)
Yesterday i took some old tires to test fit my 10j azevs. For the moment i haven't installed yet the tires to the rims to check fitment (235/40/17) and/or clearance with the arch.
Any suggestion is welcomed for the best tyres to use. my suspension is bilstein b12 kit with eibah springs and eibah sway bars .
Also there is something that is bothering my head.
please see below pictures of the car under full power(its a picture from video so just to take an idea of the issue) .
It seems that the geometry of the car is not correct and the car has excessive camber under load (and obviously less under no load). searching over the internet i came across to terms such as squat and anti - squat.. (if this is the term that describes it).
I came across to :
1) subframe risers bushings'' that increase the subframe by 12mm., (and use spacers for the differential)
2) BMW E30 SERRATED CAMBER AND TOE ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS/ eccentric bolts
3) adjustable offset trailing arm bushings
Given the fact that i dont trust myself to weld this important thing on my car or dont trust in my country someone to do such a job for me, do you believe that by only using no. 1 option or option 1 and 3 together, will correct a bit the issue? and/ if this will create any fitment issues with the 10j Azeves im trying to install 17x 10j et13?
Also by rising the sub frame with option 1 will this create other issues that i dont know? my car is a street car and wont see track days or drag races any more
does it affect spring load or something that i cant just think of?
thank you.
Any suggestion is welcomed for the best tyres to use. my suspension is bilstein b12 kit with eibah springs and eibah sway bars .
Also there is something that is bothering my head.
please see below pictures of the car under full power(its a picture from video so just to take an idea of the issue) .
It seems that the geometry of the car is not correct and the car has excessive camber under load (and obviously less under no load). searching over the internet i came across to terms such as squat and anti - squat.. (if this is the term that describes it).
I came across to :
1) subframe risers bushings'' that increase the subframe by 12mm., (and use spacers for the differential)
2) BMW E30 SERRATED CAMBER AND TOE ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS/ eccentric bolts
3) adjustable offset trailing arm bushings
Given the fact that i dont trust myself to weld this important thing on my car or dont trust in my country someone to do such a job for me, do you believe that by only using no. 1 option or option 1 and 3 together, will correct a bit the issue? and/ if this will create any fitment issues with the 10j Azeves im trying to install 17x 10j et13?
Also by rising the sub frame with option 1 will this create other issues that i dont know? my car is a street car and wont see track days or drag races any more
does it affect spring load or something that i cant just think of?thank you.
New upgrades to the car, i got rid of the billstein b12 kit and a BC BR coilover kit extreme low with 10k front and 12k rear(not true coilover).
now the car behaves better. but need to figure out what cofiguration i prefer.
Also i have upgraded my front brakes with willwood dynilte 4 pot with 280mm discs and ebc yellow pads. I used motul brake fluid.
car stops better.
now its time for the rear bushes to change with poly and adjustable trailing arm bush so as to correct some camber if it can be corrected:P
now the car behaves better. but need to figure out what cofiguration i prefer.
Also i have upgraded my front brakes with willwood dynilte 4 pot with 280mm discs and ebc yellow pads. I used motul brake fluid.
car stops better.
now its time for the rear bushes to change with poly and adjustable trailing arm bush so as to correct some camber if it can be corrected:P
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never seen that billet tensioner its new from PPF, does it have a replaceable/rebuildable off the shelf bearing that makes it economical in the long run? Is it steel or Al body?
i just use the genuine OE one never had an issue. I've also used INA brand tensioner and its fine to even after over tensioning the belt a bit it held up well. It seems like these days only el cheapo ones are a problem
i just use the genuine OE one never had an issue. I've also used INA brand tensioner and its fine to even after over tensioning the belt a bit it held up well. It seems like these days only el cheapo ones are a problem
E30 325is with M20B31
Hello again,
i need some advice if someone with more expirience can help me out.
Long story short i destroyed 2 clutches first one clutchmax bought from US, it was rated at 260NM and i said ok it cant hold the power. the pins holding the plate were broken and bend so they were touching the gearbox bellhousing while spinning and therefore i couldnt engage into gears etc.
i said ok i need to buy something better to hold the power and not disintegrate (the dyno said 234 whp accurate or innacurate i dont know and almost 30kg of torque). so i bought sachs HD 618.
and then the plate hd destroyed see photos below please note that i have RHD Flywheel. Please note that i m not driving very agreesive other than doing pulls in gears. i havent done a burnout with this clutch.
other things to note. The redline is 7300 but i usually change gears at 7k rpm, maybe first gear if no grip can bounce the redline. (does the redline how fast stops and starts at the redline affects the clutch?)
also when i bought the second clutch i have in mind not to change lets say from 3rd gear at 4k rpm instantly to 2nd 6krpm for a pull.
is it my drivestyle that has this effect on the clutch or maybe something other is broken that has an end result to the clutch.
thank you for your time
i also have a video from a pull while going to the mechanic to change gearbox(that was my guess until we discovered the clutch)
i need some advice if someone with more expirience can help me out.
Long story short i destroyed 2 clutches first one clutchmax bought from US, it was rated at 260NM and i said ok it cant hold the power. the pins holding the plate were broken and bend so they were touching the gearbox bellhousing while spinning and therefore i couldnt engage into gears etc.
i said ok i need to buy something better to hold the power and not disintegrate (the dyno said 234 whp accurate or innacurate i dont know and almost 30kg of torque). so i bought sachs HD 618.
and then the plate hd destroyed see photos below please note that i have RHD Flywheel. Please note that i m not driving very agreesive other than doing pulls in gears. i havent done a burnout with this clutch.
other things to note. The redline is 7300 but i usually change gears at 7k rpm, maybe first gear if no grip can bounce the redline. (does the redline how fast stops and starts at the redline affects the clutch?)
also when i bought the second clutch i have in mind not to change lets say from 3rd gear at 4k rpm instantly to 2nd 6krpm for a pull.
is it my drivestyle that has this effect on the clutch or maybe something other is broken that has an end result to the clutch.
i also have a video from a pull while going to the mechanic to change gearbox(that was my guess until we discovered the clutch)
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DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
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Yes it is user error that bends clutch straps, they are designed to pull not push, the only reson they bend is because you are trying to use the clutch backwards, ie you changed down at too high revs
you mean like excessive engine braking in the way it is a "negative/reverse" torque direction?
- engine rpm is being increase by negative torque through clutch
- engine compression rpm is trying to be slow vehicle through negative torque through clutch
that cause "buckling in compression" of the straps?
E30 325is with M20B31
Small update on my issue:
clutch dump etc contribute to the issue with broken PP, but it seems for a first attempt to build a stroker motor from me created the issue which is something has to do with vibration /improper engine build.
while investigating the issue and turning the engine by hand, the crankshaft bolt came lose therefore it was not just a replacement of a clutch.
the broken straps of the pressure plate that happened twice, it seems to be caused by improper attempt to secure the washer of the crankshaft bolt. i wasn't aware that the step of the washer had to be reduced significantly so as to be 100% sure that it does not touch the edge of the crankshaft witch it seems it is longer that the m20b25 one. we removed 1mm of the step (from the 3.4mm) but it seems that it needed more cz it had some markings.
also the crankshaft bolt wasn't torqued to spec and it was torqued with an impact wrench.
actually i don't know what caused the vibration damper not to be secured but i speculate one of the 2 posibilities or an imbalanced crankshaft(even if i have sent it for check to ''specialist''.
Due to the above, the harmonic balancer had a play cz it destroyed the woodruff key, however the bolts of the pulley were in place. also the timing belt wasn't in good shape.
at least we found the issue by luck before the engine would lost its timing etc.
We removed the crankshaft from the engine and the rod bearing s were not in good shape. ( i m attaching some photos, cant put all photos in order so i m giving you some to see the issue)
not sure if this is caused by a vibrating crankshaft. but i will have to gamble that that's the cause. the rods were measured with plastigauge before installation of arps and oem standard bearings at 0.038mm to all rods or near that figure.
i was using motul 300v 10w-40 and was replaced every 4-5k km after break in period of 1500 km (changed oil i think twice dont know what oil was used), engine had 7k kms. , max rpm 7300.
steps to resolve the issue.
1) take the crankshaft , different harmonic balancer in better shape, oem flywheel(to be resurfaced, i was using RHD FW that was destroyed when PP broke), new sachs 618 PP with clutch to be individually balanced and balanced as assembly.
also it came to my attention that the throw out bearing that was used with the 618 sachs PP was 25mm long, while many suggest that the specific PP needs the E21 throw out bearing which is 30mm long. Don't quote me on that. so i will be using a 30mm throw out bearing.
i bought new standard acl rod bearings and standard kings racing main bearings, bought new crankshaft bolt for 24v egines. , (i will also take with me another m52b28 crankshaft in case that one was bend)
take the crankshaft bolt washer to the lathe so as to remove material from the washer so that the washer has a step of 0.9mm.
reassemble and hope that with plastigauge that the clearances will be within spec.
do you think that there is anything i should do before ? i don't know how to check if the bearing of the intermediary shaft is in good shape. is there is any way to check?
also i will replace the gearbox with another g260 as the one installed was not in good shape, 2nd gear wasn't engaging easily.
thanks
clutch dump etc contribute to the issue with broken PP, but it seems for a first attempt to build a stroker motor from me created the issue which is something has to do with vibration /improper engine build.
while investigating the issue and turning the engine by hand, the crankshaft bolt came lose therefore it was not just a replacement of a clutch.
the broken straps of the pressure plate that happened twice, it seems to be caused by improper attempt to secure the washer of the crankshaft bolt. i wasn't aware that the step of the washer had to be reduced significantly so as to be 100% sure that it does not touch the edge of the crankshaft witch it seems it is longer that the m20b25 one. we removed 1mm of the step (from the 3.4mm) but it seems that it needed more cz it had some markings.
also the crankshaft bolt wasn't torqued to spec and it was torqued with an impact wrench.
actually i don't know what caused the vibration damper not to be secured but i speculate one of the 2 posibilities or an imbalanced crankshaft(even if i have sent it for check to ''specialist''.
Due to the above, the harmonic balancer had a play cz it destroyed the woodruff key, however the bolts of the pulley were in place. also the timing belt wasn't in good shape.
at least we found the issue by luck before the engine would lost its timing etc.
We removed the crankshaft from the engine and the rod bearing s were not in good shape. ( i m attaching some photos, cant put all photos in order so i m giving you some to see the issue)
i was using motul 300v 10w-40 and was replaced every 4-5k km after break in period of 1500 km (changed oil i think twice dont know what oil was used), engine had 7k kms. , max rpm 7300.
steps to resolve the issue.
1) take the crankshaft , different harmonic balancer in better shape, oem flywheel(to be resurfaced, i was using RHD FW that was destroyed when PP broke), new sachs 618 PP with clutch to be individually balanced and balanced as assembly.
also it came to my attention that the throw out bearing that was used with the 618 sachs PP was 25mm long, while many suggest that the specific PP needs the E21 throw out bearing which is 30mm long. Don't quote me on that. so i will be using a 30mm throw out bearing.
i bought new standard acl rod bearings and standard kings racing main bearings, bought new crankshaft bolt for 24v egines. , (i will also take with me another m52b28 crankshaft in case that one was bend)
take the crankshaft bolt washer to the lathe so as to remove material from the washer so that the washer has a step of 0.9mm.
reassemble and hope that with plastigauge that the clearances will be within spec.
do you think that there is anything i should do before ? i don't know how to check if the bearing of the intermediary shaft is in good shape. is there is any way to check?
also i will replace the gearbox with another g260 as the one installed was not in good shape, 2nd gear wasn't engaging easily.
thanks
Small update, i took the crankshaft for balancing along with the harmonic balancer & oem flywheel(323i one) and it was perfectly balanced from the factory. No adjustment was needed.. in the previous assemply the FW due to improper use or installation was not in balance. Just to be clear it was our fault not the manufacturer.. so with the new assemply balanced we rebuild with new bearings and etc, turned out the clearances were a bit on the upper limit so redline 15w50 was used. Again i used sachs hd 618pp and clutch .
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So i head to the same dyno so as to test and retune... the car was in the same whp as before around 232whp and now was time to test the methanol injection ..
I installed 3.45 torsen lsd differential
Here is the plot with the last run
The iat from 40c dropped to 17c during the run... and showed 245whp
I have driven the car its a beast.. i have draggy and i will try some runs with it.. lets see if the numbers agree with the times .
Car feels very fast and it seems that the 3.45 gave more speed to the car
I installed 3.45 torsen lsd differential
Here is the plot with the last run
The iat from 40c dropped to 17c during the run... and showed 245whp
I have driven the car its a beast.. i have draggy and i will try some runs with it.. lets see if the numbers agree with the times .
Car feels very fast and it seems that the 3.45 gave more speed to the car
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Last edited by cyman1988 on Sat Apr 23, 2022 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
Now i need to sort a missallinged timing belt.. actually trying to figure out what is causing this.. i rulled out the intermidiate shaft pulley.. i think crankshaft with the spacer is ok . Tentioner seems fine.. i will have to test the camshaft pulley with a different just to rule out posibilities
Please ignore that marking that was done while testing things
Please ignore that marking that was done while testing things
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fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular
- Posts: 906
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
cyman1988 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 21, 2022 7:07 pmNow i need to sort a missallinged timing belt.. actually trying to figure out what is causing this.. i rulled out the intermidiate shaft pulley.. i think crankshaft with the spacer is ok . Tentioner seems fine.. i will have to test the camshaft pulley with a different just to rule out posibilities
Please ignore that marking that was done while testing things
It is usually the tensioner pulley that causes this, always good practice to renew the tensioner along with the belt.
Today i tried to test 1/4 mile but it seems i failed a bit!.. i havent launched my car i have started the run with 2.5k rpm , second gear hit the rev limit and i have mistakenly changed gear from 3rd to 4rth faster than intended and before 7k rpm( i wanted to do the run with 2 gear changes but didnt manage)...my run was with compomotive rims and random 215/45/16 tyres and 3.45 torsen lsd. is it bad? Also from your experience is better 3.45, 3.64 3.73, or 3.91? I can change to any of those. My run was with full interior, spare tyre and ac installed.
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