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Discuss general engine, turbo and supercharger conversions in this section

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Toby_Unna
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Mon Nov 21, 2005 1:16 pm

manifold porting not perfect when upside down, little work needed but could b worse!

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Turbo-Brown
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Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:17 pm

Looks pretty good to me! The M20 is miles out if you turn the manifold upside-down.

Think I'm gonna turn up a 10mm thick shim and see what that gets me. Had a quick peek under the mounts on the subframe and they're already as far left as they can be :(

On the plus side, I've finally come up with some workable connections for the oil to the turbos so that's a weight off! Also, just went out to fit the new exhaust which bolted straight on this time, plus the down pipes fitted first time!

Just recovering from the shock of something going right at the moment!
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Turbo-Brown
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Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:33 pm

Some of today's efforts:

A collector for one of the downpipes:
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And the (hopefully standard looking) new exhaust:
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lentec
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Tue Nov 22, 2005 9:39 am

alex have you considered the 316 style engine mount dampers they might take some of the movement out?

cheers for the sugestions guys :D the cluch switch sounds like a good idea. perhaps if i use that aswell as the throttle switch to make sure its not on at idle.

A sprung preload pulley on the return side of the belt might help take out the slack when theres no load. as the new pulley is so much bigger that when the charger turns on the extra grip on the belt is pulling the charger down giving slack on the oposite side where the waterpump pulley runs if the slack hits that it may push it forwards.

anyway new belt new day try again!
Jon_Bmw
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Tue Nov 22, 2005 4:48 pm

Some serious progression guys. Toby can you not port the bolt holes so that the actual ports line up better, it may be easier than opening up the actual exhaust ports??

Also toby thank your lucky socks that the m30 downpipe/front pipe(not sure which) is a single exit. On the m20 i had to go from 2.5 inch downpipe to the standard twin pipe.

Took the turbo to an airfield day, but check the motorsport section for more details, but i can tell you it drove home fine.
lentec
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Wed Nov 23, 2005 8:58 am

good to hear yours is running good jon :D

Think ive found the problem!
After spending most of lastnight trying to line everything up again
went for a testdrive the belt stayed on but it still screached between gears :? on closer inspection
my water pump pulley looked a bit too clean! :?

So marked it with a dry board marker and had another test sure enough it was clean!
Looks like the slack on the return side of the s/c pulley is rubbing the waterpump pulley.

So i need some kind of spring loaded active tensioner on the back of the belt to remove the slack when the charger turns off

I will have a look later see what i can dream up :D
lentec
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:01 pm

Ok got some bearings! made up a pulley and bracket that worked great until one of the bearings seized locking the pulley burning the belt :cry:
But it did stay on so another belt ordered try again!
kam-325i
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 1:16 pm

How many belts ?
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lentec
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 2:29 pm

Too many!
Think im up to 5 pos 6 this time!
The only reason this one went was the seized bearing tho
kam-325i
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 2:39 pm

Anyway of making a bar tensioner, that's spring loaded to tension both the feed and return side.
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Apal
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 5:17 pm

Hi Lentec,

Am also thinking of adding a supercharger to a 2.7 conversion I've recently completed for a m8. Had been thinking of driving with a toothed belt (similar to a cam belt but wider) a number of companies supply these together with a wide range of pulleys. Obviously the pulleys would need some machining but was wondering if you had thought of this route?
lentec
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 5:51 pm

Apal i did consider that route in the begining 8)
As the s/c came with a 6-v pulley i decided to stay with that.

Besides i cant make a toothed pulley! :lol:

Latest: the belt is on :woohoo: for how long is anyones guess!
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The design of my tensioner pulley is a bit naff but seems to be working
Alltho it was getting hot! perhaps stainless was not such a good idea on a pulley!
Will try to use an oem one later
Turbo-Brown
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Thu Nov 24, 2005 7:45 pm

He he, how much are the belts Len?

Wouldn't have thought that the stainless would have generated more heat than other metals with the same surface finish TBH.

Might the heat be being caused by any rubbing that'd be caused if the axis of the pulley wasn't exactly parallel to that of the belt? :?

Just out of interest, what grade of ball bearings did you use? I'm always a bit paranoid about sealed BBs for some reason, like the can't possible get enough lube in them when they're made...can they? :lol:
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Toby_Unna
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Fri Nov 25, 2005 7:59 am

i'd say the possibility of getting any grit or dust into an open bearing is much more worrying! once there's a little grinding paste to work with it won't last long! by contrast i don't think a ballrace should need much lube at all if working properly?

looking forward to ten pages of raging arguments about which ballbearings are the best :teehee:
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lentec
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Fri Nov 25, 2005 9:53 am

Alex not funny mate at Ԛ£11 - Ԛ£16 a pop it getting expensive :lol:

The bearings ive used are skf sealed ballberings
As far as i know sealed bearings are non friction type ie: no parts rub against each other as the balls/rollers are rolling and so dont need much lube!
Turbo-Brown
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Tue Nov 29, 2005 10:17 pm

Alas even a whif of axial load will cause rubbing in a ball bearing (not that it's anything to worry about mind :) )

Guess a big killer of bearings is shite getting in to damage the surfaces so they'll last foreeeever!

How's the latest belt lasting?

I've had an evening of selective assembly going on to make the throttle links all exactly the same length. I had a bit of a problem when I fitted the TBs to the car in that they all closed at the same point, but all opened at wildly different rates. However, should hopefully be able to eliminate the problem tomorrow evening by resetting the butterflies.....fingers crossed!

Depending on how that goes, might even get around to machining up a metal replacement for the rubber flexy disc in the steering so that it can't melt!

I'm actually hesitantly confident that it might get started by the end of the weekend, although I won't be able to MOT it for another week even if I do :(
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Andy335Touring
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Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:24 pm

Alex, do you want to borrow this gizmo for setting up your TB's ?

Trouble is i guess you'd have to have your car running N/A to use it ?

Are you going to be using a wide band O2 sensor with your Emerald to tune it up ?

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Turbo-Brown
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:09 am

Andy that'd be awesome if I could!

I reckon if I just make sure they all shut at the same point and open on the idle screw by the same amount it should get me running well enough for the MOT, but if I could borrow that do-hickey it'd make things miles easier :)

Access shouldn't be a problem as the air-box comes right off leaving just the TB entrances.

Not made provision for O2 bosses yet, will have a quick search on saturday. Anyone know what thread they are? Seem to recall they're M18 or something?

Cheers!

Alex.
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lentec
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:58 am

Its still on!! :D
Alltho only on 4 ribs now!

The problem with the bearings was that i had locked them up too tight!
As the pulley was seized if you like, it burned the back of the belt.
New bearings and a washer it seems to be ok now!

The o2 boss thread is a m18 x 1.5 any local exhaust company ie:speedflow will have them in stock. :D
Apal
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 10:24 am

Quick question to Turbo-Brown - where did you get the throttle bodies from?
Toby_Unna
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:25 pm

quick answer - he made them from scratch! :notworthy:
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Turbo-Brown
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:40 pm

:lol: yep :)

Got them from some lumps of metal, a lathe, a pillar drill, some Bastard files and a Dremmel.

Cheers for the boss thread info len, will have a search now :)

If anyone's really interested in TBs, I'll be looking into knocking a few sets up (casting them rather than fabricating them though) at some point in the new year.
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Apal
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:20 pm

Mmmm thought that was the case. I also have lathe, mill etc. (doesn't everyone?) would appreciate a few pics, and tips on how to get started.
Andy335Touring
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Wed Nov 30, 2005 6:23 pm

Turbo-Brown wrote:Andy that'd be awesome if I could!

I reckon if I just make sure they all shut at the same point and open on the idle screw by the same amount it should get me running well enough for the MOT, but if I could borrow that do-hickey it'd make things miles easier :)

Access shouldn't be a problem as the air-box comes right off leaving just the TB entrances.

Not made provision for O2 bosses yet, will have a quick search on saturday. Anyone know what thread they are? Seem to recall they're M18 or something?

Cheers!

Alex.
No probs mate, just drop me a PM with your ady and i will post it for you :thumb:

I'm going to attempt to tweak my Emerald with a WBO2 i've just ordered as i'm fairly sure mine is over fueling.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcar ... hp?cat=253
lentec
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:12 am

Ive worked out the belt probs :oops:
I forgot how i intended the front bracket to work!

Think a pic might help explain!
Image
As the forces in direction (A) are a lot greater with a larger pulley this causes
the spring (D) to compress pulling the whole charger down
Creating slack in direction (B) and making the belt ride up the inside edge of the s/c pulley and possibly contact at (c)!

So if i make a spacer to sit under the spring (D) to preload it :cool:

Any sugestions?
Turbo-Brown
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Thu Dec 01, 2005 8:07 am

Think if it were me I'd lose the spring and put an M12 turnbuckle in there :)
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lentec
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Fri Dec 02, 2005 12:22 am

Cheers alex :D
Do you mean somyhing like this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12MM-316-GRADE-ST ... dZViewItem
Think thats what it needed in the first place! just didnt know what they where called!
Turbo-Brown
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Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:29 am

Yeah should do the job I'd have thought :)

Nice an meaty, and looks nice too! Should be no compressing that bad boy :lol:
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Turbo-Brown
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Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:21 pm

Yay!

Throttle bodies are on properly.
Metal steering donut is made and on.
Air box is all together with air temp sensor.
Got some vacuum hose for the servo and water hose for the turbo coolant.
Got Oil proof hose for the turbo oil drains.

Need to make clearance for the front blower and then they can go on together with the downpipes.

SO close!
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Turbo-Brown
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Sun Dec 11, 2005 5:39 pm

Boo, despite my bestest efforts, didn't get to try starting her up this weekend :(

Got the IC scoops on and all the boost plumbing in, but now the front valance won't go on which it did used to. Does look mean though :twisted:
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lentec
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Mon Dec 12, 2005 4:24 pm

Turbo-Brown wrote: but now the front valance won't go on which it did used to.
Use a bigger hammer :lol: :lol:
Turbo-Brown
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Thu Dec 29, 2005 7:29 pm

Holy crap!

It went back on (with a bit of fettling to the boost pipes)
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Here's the mostly completed engine bay
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The exhaust system snaking it's way along the car
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And the completed engine bay with heat shielding all over the place!
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lentec
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Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:15 pm

:cool:
Mate that looks :mad: !

Good to see all your hard work coming together :D

Good luck on the ticket!
fuzzy
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Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:26 pm

looking good indeed mate :cool:
certainly is a tight fit in that engine bay.is that 2 cossie intercoolers at the front or one big one?
Andy335Touring
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Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:32 pm

Nice work mate ! :cool:

Theres a lot of plumbing involved with two turbos, it must have been a PITA to get every thing right !
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