Power handling of the E30 chassis

Discuss general engine, turbo and supercharger conversions in this section

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cypriot_boy_2k7
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Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:28 pm

thats a beast 8O :eek:
agreen
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Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:44 pm

omg , the bonnet wont close

Right ?
g57yle
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:55 pm

i measured everything do the bonnet does close and i have over 1" gap also, maybe more
fuzzy
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:58 pm

g57yle wrote:i measured everything do the bonnet does close and i have over 1" gap also, maybe more
wont the heat damage the paint being so close? my little t34 turbo glows bright red hot after a thrashing.
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blingsta
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:22 pm

im the proud new owner of that bonnet.. there was no issues when i bought it ! :D
maxfield
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:24 pm

Fuzzy - I'm pretty sure it shouldn't glow red.

Paint can take a fair bit of heat.
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fuzzy
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:27 pm

maxfield wrote:Fuzzy - I'm pretty sure it shouldn't glow red.

Paint can take a fair bit of heat.
turbos definately glow red hot after a hard drive max, you have to let the engine tick over for several minutes for it to cool down before turning off to prevent the oil in it from cooking and drying up,blocking the flow.
maxfield
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:29 pm

Ahhh, valid point. But I still don't think it should glow red. No matter how much abuse you give it?
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fuzzy
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:35 pm

loook here at the end. its the only one i found on you tube but ive seen many glow bright red and look almost see through and shiny like opaque red glass
oldroydsr4
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:35 pm

Max i think you'll find turbo's do glow

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maxfield
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:36 pm

I know they do glow, but the thing is should they glow?
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fuzzy
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:38 pm

oldroydsr4 wrote:Max i think you'll find turbo's do glow

Image
yep, that shows what i mean better than my link. the heat is immense . ive made the mistake of forgetting that once the red glow goes it hasnt cooled down quite yet. i left half the skin from my knuckles toasting on the hotside :o:
march109
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:40 pm

maxfield wrote:I know they do glow, but the thing is should they glow?
Well ideally they wouldn't but since the medium to which the turbo housing is loosing heat is air then theres not much you can do about it.
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oldroydsr4
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:41 pm

yes the exhasut gas temperature is approx 700 degrees
maxfield
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:41 pm

Surely what makes them glow is if the car is running lean? :?

Or would they do it when the fueling is spot on?
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Jon_Bmw
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:46 pm

Max have you not seen the pictures of the new bmw v8 m3's engines header pipes. Glowing a beautiful shade of orange. A turbo sits in a similar flow position as those headers....

See where I am going with this?
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:50 pm

maxfield wrote:Surely what makes them glow is if the car is running lean? :?

Or would they do it when the fueling is spot on?
What are you drinking?

They run red hot ie. RED HOT, hot being the operative word because the exhaust gasses flying through them is an insane temerature it is essentially one long continuous explosion being filtered through moving components.

Doesn't matter wether the car is running lean, rich or spot on. Just as longs as its being used hard.
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maxfield
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:53 pm

Ahh OK, thought it might just be a fueling issue or something.

Jon - Got those pictures on my computer somewhere. :)
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bruvs1
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:53 pm

Metro group B rally cars had the roll cage tube within the front windscreen pillars, to keep visibility out of the front good. It would be alot of work but very discreet.

edit: holy smoke just clocked the turbo 8O
g57yle
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Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:43 pm

LOL guys, my old turbo used to glowup red on my M20 2.7 turbo, but to be straight i havent really checked this one, oh and its the compressor housing thats closer to the bonnet, the exhaust housing is lower, i may cover it when the engine goes back in, got a lot of bits to clean up ect.
But i have never really had any issues with the bonnet, only thing is before i cut a hole in my bonnet for a vent i did find that if it was raining, on the bonnet just above where the turbo sat the water wouldnt actualy sit, it would instantly evaporate, so i cut out a vent. on hot days with the vent, the heat would distort your vision slightly if you were in traffic

The first time i took the car for a spin i melted my accelerator cable! that wasnt funny, it got stuck wide open!


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shalmaneser
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Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:44 pm

For what it's worth (as a general bit of information) fully seam welding a shell will quickly lead to cracks, due to the build up of stress risers. What you really want to do is stitch weld, which reduces the number of risers and is just as stiff.

Max respect by the way for driving such a monster!!!!
march109
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Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:47 pm

shalmaneser wrote:For what it's worth (as a general bit of information) fully seam welding a shell will quickly lead to cracks, due to the build up of stress risers. What you really want to do is stitch weld, which reduces the number of risers and is just as stiff.

Max respect by the way for driving such a monster!!!!
:thumb:

however when I say seam weld I mean stitch weld.

Just because the people that do the work know what I mean, had an old 4 door nova stitch welded once in prep for bug BHP, fortunatly shortly after I sold it for a profit before I could be corrupted further.
325i Tech 1 Touring, breaking.

2.5 high comp. M20, 3.64 LSD, Fully undersealed, Spax springs & Bilstein shocks, s/s exhaust, Alpina rep wheels and more.
g57yle
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:30 am

Thanks for all the comments and replies everybody, since im new to all this, could anybody show me a picture of some stitch welding and also let me know exactly where i should stitch weld it up? thanks
g57yle
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:10 am

ShakeyC wrote:Immense 8O

As for structual strength if the shell is still bare the answer would be to semi-space frame the chassis, seam weld and fit in integrated cage whereby its connected to the cars chassis at certain stress/pickup points so loading from the diff, gear box, suspension, engine is transferred throughout the car (not a bolt in cage job)

If engine is already in and rather not space frame you could rose joint the suspension bits and add additional pick points/brackets around key areas to help transfer stresses outwards, add braces under the transmission tunnel, across rear boot where the diff is mounted and so on. Basically a lot of fabrication work by a professional with relevant FIA/MSA certs a bad cage is worse than no cage last thing anyone wants is a cross section snapping and going through your torso :eek:

Very cool car love to see it in the metal :cool:
Hello shakey,

i dont want to sound dumb but what are rose joints? any pic's?
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Motox_engineer
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:22 pm

fill the sills with exspanding foam
oldroydsr4
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:44 pm

^^^ joker
g57yle
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:21 pm

seen that in the new mercs beleive it or not!

But its not normal shit, its ultra strong!
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 9:17 pm

hey gary, whats been going on... finally back on here then. SO have you finally finished it then. Some crazy power there, when do i get a ride in it winkeye
shalmaneser
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:07 pm

Stitch welding is like seam welding (as in you weld along all the joins in the chassis) but instead of doing it in one long line, you weld for say 30mm, leave a 10mm gap and then weld for another 30mm, etc etc. I could go into detail but its a pain in the arse to explain in the internet, any good bodyshop will know what you're on about.

Image

this gives an idea of what I'm on about.

rose joints are used instead of of bushes, and are much stronger, although give a much worse ride (not that you'll care much!)

Image

also more @ wiki.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose_joint

now i've given you all this help, can i have a drive?!?! 8)
g57yle
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:40 pm

SHAKEELE30 wrote:hey gary, whats been going on... finally back on here then. SO have you finally finished it then. Some crazy power there, when do i get a ride in it winkeye
Im back and not, ive been good, still working on the car every night, nearly done, should be sprayed in 2 weeks +/- i just need 1 more rear m tech rear drivers quarter pod and ideally a lower m tec front valance,
then its all fun and games putting it back together with all my new goodies winkeye.

im sure ive forgottern to buy something, but we'll see when its all going together, got loads of stickers to put on it somewhere or not.

AEM, HKS, Aeromotive, garrett, sard, blitz, arp, dei, .........cant think of more but i know there are...

oh and u get a ride wen i see u!
g57yle
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Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:45 pm

MM, one big problem, ive undersealed the crap of under my shell! id be there for 6 months taking it all back of again

The only bits i can do that to is around, front and rear windscreen, door openings, and rear window openings, will that help?

is there anybody making custom adjustable wishbones for the e30 with rose joints???
shalmaneser wrote:Stitch welding is like seam welding (as in you weld along all the joins in the chassis) but instead of doing it in one long line, you weld for say 30mm, leave a 10mm gap and then weld for another 30mm, etc etc. I could go into detail but its a pain in the arse to explain in the internet, any good bodyshop will know what you're on about.

Image



this gives an idea of what I'm on about.

rose joints are used instead of of bushes, and are much stronger, although give a much worse ride (not that you'll care much!)

Image

also more @ wiki.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose_joint

now i've given you all this help, can i have a drive?!?! 8)
Karan
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Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:34 am

quick fix would be to put a 6 point cage in and then triangulate between rear turrets and diff point

even a simple cage can stiffen an e30 up a lot!
g57yle
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Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:40 pm

ok i tried some, is this how to do it or should my stitches be longer or closer????

Thanks

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mikekean
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Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:23 am

ideally with seam welding you do the whole shell or not at all because it can put undue stress on the rest of the body if you do parts of it. although if your running a cage quite alot of people seam weld the engine pay and diff/suspension mounting points. if it was my car id stick a simple six point cage in, it would do a world on wonders and you would still be able to use the whole interior
Karan
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Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:29 pm

yep with my trackcar, i simply went for the cage option also....
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