'88 325i Touring #001 resto - 03/2012 rimz porn

[spook]

Nice shiny engine goodies.

I wonder if i can get that done down here.

[capri_rob]

May be an idea to do the 320i upgrade and delete that un-needed oil cooler!

Make oil filter swaps so much easier...

Nope - its staying - 325i's have oil coolers

Besides I've got a decent Sykes Pickavant oil filter removal tool now which should be able to get a grip on it now without me burning my hands too much

[DanThe]

me too! oh.......

This blasting lark is epic. I hope it looks as good in the flesh as it does in the pictures. Its just the ticket. Do you need to give it some laquer to keep it like that?

They do a vibration/polishing type thing that buffs the alloy closing the pores, it leaves a slight waxy coating on, this is what diddler had done, if you dont have this it will corrode like fook, diddlers has some signs of corrosion in places so will need some metal/wheel wax type stuff banging on to protect it, some of the spray on wheel protectant is the ideal solution

[B7]

me too! oh.......

This blasting lark is epic. I hope it looks as good in the flesh as it does in the pictures. Its just the ticket. Do you need to give it some laquer to keep it like that?

They do a vibration/polishing type thing that buffs the alloy closing the pores, it leaves a slight waxy coating on, this is what diddler had done, if you dont have this it will corrode like fook, diddlers has some signs of corrosion in places so will need some metal/wheel wax type stuff banging on to protect it, some of the spray on wheel protectant is the ideal solution

OOH get you, you bufty queen!

They look the business. Good work Rob.

[capri_rob]

some of the spray on wheel protectant is the ideal solution

http://www.autoglym.co.uk/enGB/product- ... IJ&Range=1

This do the trick Dan ?

[e301988325i]

May be an idea to do the 320i upgrade and delete that un-needed oil cooler!

Make oil filter swaps so much easier...

Nope - its staying - 325i's have oil coolers

Besides I've got a decent Sykes Pickavant oil filter removal tool now which should be able to get a grip on it now without me burning my hands too much

The oil filter can be rotated 180 degrees by filing away a small lump away on the back of the oil cooler adaptor, then it's just a case of swapping the two oil cooler pipes with each other. This is pretty essential with a six branch fitted to avoid the primaries heating the oil in the filter.

Loving the soda balsted parts, I take it you didn't hav eto dismantle the throttle body?

[capri_rob]

Loving the soda balsted parts, I take it you didn't hav eto dismantle the throttle body?

Thankfully not - he masked up the TPS so it could be left in-situ without disturbing the settings.

[capri_rob]

Removed coolant reservoir - currently soaking in hot water & detergent - its fooking horribly filthy inside - I may have to replace it



HLWW on this side not even connected up

decided to get the blower motor out and properly lubed as when I did it last time I did it in-situ with WD40.

Stood on end, bit of oil down the bearings



Spring clip was a pig - not looking forward to getting it back in


Gonna get the vac in there before it goes back together and then douse it with aerosol waxoyl.

Cable tidy very rusty - wire brushed & smoothrited from the never-ending tin



couldnt resist a little peek to see how they'd look




Going to the trimmers tomorrow to try and scrounge a black leather offcut & some foam backing.

Also removed the oil spraybar - need to pick up a 1.5mm drill to drill the holes out - any tips on what to use to soak it in ? Bought some Gunk engine degreaser on Friday - will this be any good for it ?

[Simon13]

yeah or petrol, brake cleaner

[kam-325i]

i did mine with petrol.

[capri_rob]

My 1.5mm drill bits arrived today - they are barely bigger than the existing holes in the spraybar so wont make the holes much bigger - not sure if its been done before

As the difference looks to be so small not really sure whether its worth risking swarf getting into the bar ? or should I buy a very slightly bigger drill bit ? I though 1.5mm was about the most you should go ?

Anyone ?

[Kedge]

That clip for the blower motor goes back on much easier than it comes off

Look forward to seeing the gauge pod covered in leather

[Simon13]

i'm sure i've used 2mm in the past

[bss325i]

The oil filter can be rotated 180 degrees by filing away a small lump away on the back of the oil cooler adaptor, then it's just a case of swapping the two oil cooler pipes with each other. This is pretty essential with a six branch fitted to avoid the primaries heating the oil in the filter.

Pretty much impossible if you have A/C as the compressor is on the way.

Besides, the quicker the engine oil heats up the better and once its up to temp you have the oil cooler on 325i's.

[Speedtouch]

Surely if you've cleaned out the spray bar and regularly change the oil, you shouldn't need to drill it out any further?

[capri_rob]

Surely if you've cleaned out the spray bar and regularly change the oil, you shouldn't need to drill it out any further?

You would think - but I understood from several zoners with more mechanical knowledge than me that it is worthwhile as it aids oil flow without significant impact on pressure thus making your cam & top end bits quieter and longer lasting.

[capri_rob]

Ok done the spraybar today - the 1.5mm drill only made a marginal difference to the size of the existing holes but I'm not going to take it any further.

Taped all the spray holes up then blasted it through both ways with brake cleaner - will do it once more before it goes back on but it should be clear now.

Fitted new viscous :




No overheating issues with the old one but the action felt very graunchy compared to the smoothness of the new one.
Old one is a Sachs stamped '97 so looks like its been replaced once already and was due again anyway.

Refitted the blower motor which I removed and oiled up last week - spring clip was a lot easier going back on than it was coming off - motor is much stronger now

Then tackled the gauge pod


Covered the upper surfaces first in a thin layer of foam-rubber, then the leather



Going to leave it overnight to completely dry and then cut the holes out.

Looks like I will have clearance issues with the carpet behind though - may have to slice out a square under the hole to allow room for the backs of the gauges & wiring

More head-refitting tomorrow all being well

[capri_rob]

Head on and Torqued down

Timing belt & tensioner on, Timed up and covers back on.

Rubber fuel hoses replaced.

Water pump in.

Not much to do now

[Alex]

Need a video of first start up

[DanThe]

Crack on Rob, you will be booking a slot at cosford soon at this rate

[capri_rob]

Ran out of patience yesterday and was gonna end up breaking something - forgot to put that sprung breather pipe from the block to the underside of the inlet on

Spent about half an hour swearing at it trying to get it in then ended up having to take the inlet off again to do it - it was still a beeyatch to get properly seated.
My super shiny inlet manifold is now covered in oily fingerprints I've also managed to lose a 12mm socket somewhere down between the engine & bulkhead - no doubt its trapped somewher on top of the front of the gearbox ready to rattle like bollox forevermore

Spending some time on it tomorrow - not looking forward to bleeding the cooling system

[ricey46]

I did wonder how you had got that pipe in there when putting the head on with the inlet attached!? I thought he must have had 6 hands. Get a bit of brake cleaner onto the inlet that'll remove the oily marks. Let's just hope you find the socket, nothing worse than loosing tools!!

[Duke137]

Why aren't you looking forward to doing the coolant?

You're getting there mate, you have done a great job with this so far

[Alex]

Ran out of patience yesterday and was gonna end up breaking something - forgot to put that sprung breather pipe from the block to the underside of the inlet on

Spent about half an hour swearing at it trying to get it in then ended up having to take the inlet off again to do it - it was still a beeyatch to get properly seated.
My super shiny inlet manifold is now covered in oily fingerprints I've also managed to lose a 12mm socket somewhere down between the engine & bulkhead - no doubt its trapped somewher on top of the front of the gearbox ready to rattle like bollox forevermore

Spending some time on it tomorrow - not looking forward to bleeding the cooling system

sounds like me yesterday when i was removing the touring rear side panels in the boot. everything just goes wrong and you get pissed off. ecpecially when nothing wants to go back the way it came out

[capri_rob]

Why aren't you looking forward to doing the coolant?

You're getting there mate, you have done a great job with this so far

Just know the cooling systems on M20's can be an arse to get right. Its got a new stat, The bleed screw on the stat housing works and I've flushed the Rad through - just hope I don't get any airlocks.

Also got to remember to put the oil back in before putting the cam cover back on

[Duke137]

Why aren't you looking forward to doing the coolant?

You're getting there mate, you have done a great job with this so far

Just know the cooling systems on M20's can be an arse to get right. Its got a new stat, The bleed screw on the stat housing works and I've flushed the Rad through - just hope I don't get any airlocks.

Also got to remember to put the oil back in before putting the cam cover back on

Mate you've re-done the gear linkages, had the bulkhead welded, Had the head apart, the rear beam off etc and your bothered about bleeding the coolant Stop whinging lol

[Andyboy]

The oil tube is easy - grease up both seals, push the pipe down against the spring as far as it will go, and use a couple of tie wraps to hold it down. When the manifold is on, cut the tie wraps and it will spring up. Turn the tube by hand to seat it into the manifold, job done.

The cooling system is easy. It's even easier with a small 2mm hole in the stat, or refill with the stat out, refitting it when coolant reaches the stat housing. Just refill slowly so air can escape - having the top hose disconnected from the rad helps.

[capri_rob]

yeah I know mate - just getting a bit nervous about starting it back up and getting it running properly after all this effort

[capri_rob]

Done it now Andy using that method - I'd hoped it would be possible to fit it without removing the manifold but because of the way the it fits the pipe won't go in the block far enough with the manifold in place.

[Andyboy]

They were the Hex head bolts rather than the star-head ones if thats what you mean.

I hope you haven't re-used these!

[DanThe]

They were the Hex head bolts rather than the star-head ones if thats what you mean.

I hope you haven't re-used these!

I heard they are fine to re-use but only if you tighten them up with pliers and a suspender belt?

[B7]

Bleeding it up will be fine. I've not had any dramas bleeding these up. I always ensure the ignition is on when the heater is set to hot. I heard that the valve does not open until 12v is seen at the valve? Never had that verified but I've never had any issues either.

[B7]

They were the Hex head bolts rather than the star-head ones if thats what you mean.

I hope you haven't re-used these!

I heard they are fine to re-use but only if you tighten them up with pliers and a suspender belt?

Nooooooo! It was tighten them up while wearing a pair of black panties and a white bra!!!!

[capri_rob]

They were the Hex head bolts rather than the star-head ones if thats what you mean.

I hope you haven't re-used these!

What do you think my name is ? tay ?

New bolts fitted of course

[capri_rob]

Well - she lives



town325i came round this afternoon and we got it all back together.

Had a right fookin ballache getting it to run - the cause - plug leads on the wrong way

I swear every fookin time I swap them over in the order they came off and theyre never fookin right first time

But - it now starts and runs as it should bar a slight misfire at idle which I'm hoping a good blast once its taxed & road legal should clear.

Top end is now nice and quiet just the ticking of the injectors which I hope will quieten down as they bed back in.

As predicted bleeding the system was fun - did get some air leaks despite being careful to fill it slowly but all sorted now - heater hot, needle on gauge where it should be, hoses as they should be

Now that I can start it and move it before I put it back together properly I need to get it down on the road whilst the bonnet is still off and TFR/degrease the engine & bay and then jetwash it - maybe later this week - although I really need to get some proper money earning work done soon