Ratch's 318iS Resto is back!!!

[Royalratch]

So got rough with the tie-rods. Couldn't be bothered to go find a 32mm spanner for this one job so resolved to do this with what I have to hand.

So into the vice:


Lockring off - tapped underneath with a small screwdriver then grab with some pliers and bully it.


Lock Grip on:


Nothing.

Lock Grip on with latex to stop spinning, more WD40 and shock it with a mallet.



All done! Took 5mins this way.


Grease up rack.


Ready to fit the new E30 ones on with new boots, lockrings etc. Issue here is do I have to torque these up (tough without a 'Crows Foot' adapter) or just do it up tight? Use threadlock or copper-slip?


Some more bits arrived, mainly my painted iS lip which I got from RicoSuave - as describe for once



And the subframe, steering rack, wishbones etc will all go back on with new hardware.


And some new side repeaters - which are not NLA.


Next up I'll test fit rack and go get some hoses made, hopefully this Sat.

[RicoSuave]

That iS lip is looking tidy bro

Now all you have to do in return is give me a chance to buy your spare Heckblende!

[Royalratch]

That iS lip is looking tidy bro

Now all you have to do in return is give me a chance to buy your spare Heckblende!

Tanks, yid be at the back of a lahng list so ya would.

S'for me Cabrio - whenever that happens...

[rhubarb]

use threadlock and do them up tight

[Royalratch]

Am doing them today (Sat PM) so wil do. A few poeple have said use nothing and some have said use anti-seize.

[Jozi]

Nice thread! Sweet iS! Was the lip from the dealers?

I've been doing much the same as you described over the last few posts, bushes, wishbones and rack conversion.

Good luck with your MOT, I had a few small issues to get mine through as well, all sorted now hopefully.

[Royalratch]

MOT sorted as stated. They hardly checked it on the retest.

[RicoSuave]

Ratch, whats the part number for the cooler grille? You're right it's a much better upgrade from the blank one.

[Royalratch]

I don't have it to hand - perhaps someone else can get it up now but I'll let you know when I check the invoices.

I do remember it's almost impossible to find on the ETK for some reason.

[The_Diddler]

I don't have it to hand - perhaps someone else can get it up now but I'll let you know when I check the invoices.

I do remember it's almost impossible to find on the ETK for some reason.

Item 13, not sure which is the correct part number though.

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/4 ... im/grille/

[RicoSuave]

I saw it on there but it has two part numbers and I don't want to go and order the blank that I've already got fitted.

If you could check the invoice when you get a chance I'd appreciate it.

[Royalratch]

You'd think it was that part but I ordered that and it was the blank.

[e30topless]

part no, 51 71 8 121 434

[Dave_M3]

how much was it? I've seen people asking 30 quid for them second hand which are half faded because they think they are rare and hard to get

[Royalratch]

It's not more than £30 new lol.

The M42 needs it because of the furnace like temperatures it's power breathing sump contains.

[Royalratch]

So tie-rods back on and wanted to offer up the rack and see what way to route the hoses. Some people just bend the E30 pipes for a quick and cheap (but good) but with the pipes don't clip to the back of the rack like they do with an E30 rack. So I will pick up some E36 hoses tomorrow and see if I can modify them.

If I go with the original plan and just get all new hoses with correct angled fittings, I will route them like in the pic, probably ziptied wherever possible to keep them secure.



Dave_M3 suggest better cooling this way, not really an issue for me but it is the most straightforward I suppose.

[Jozi]

I got the hoses of Dave, routed them to the front cross member ( think thats whatit's called?) and zipptied them on making sure they wont get near anyof the pulleys or belts.

[Theo]

For the low pressure rack>resevoir return pipe I used one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16MM-90-deg-BANJO ... 48384e2b0f

The hose is routed behind the rack up to the resevoir.

[Royalratch]

Dave's having trouble getting sets made at the mo and I need to get cracking - going to Dave would be the recommended route for sure.

[Royalratch]

For the low pressure rack>resevoir return pipe I used one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16MM-90-deg-BANJO ... 48384e2b0f

The hose is routed behind the rack up to the resevoir.

Yeh I may do that for return hose as it is a lot shorter but it would be right under the sump and pretty hot-temps that way...

[Theo]

Well, I don't have probelms with heat on my track car which is turbocharged. Granted it's no M42...

It's much neater than your proposed routing IMO.

[Royalratch]

Can't resist can ya.

Rather get them made up than use eBay bits.

[Theo]

Fair enough.

Good luck with the zip ties.

[Royalratch]

Waiting for 2 more correct clips. Now take your lipstick and hi-heels and run along.

[chris_335]

well worked looking good

[Royalratch]

part no, 51 71 8 121 434

Number on the part itself - 1 953 609

[RicoSuave]

part no, 51 71 8 121 434

Number on the part itself - 1 953 609

Just picked mine up today and Ratch has the correct number. Thanks again.

[Royalratch]

Well, I've had custom pipes made up and they allow the E36 rack to fit with the original E30 hoses used and routed.

All new hardware for everything from the firewall forward and new TCA bushes, wishbones, ARB etc etc...

And I STILL cannot get this bastard UJ off the car. The bulkhead end has had it's bolt removed, I've pryed it, used heat - nothing. It's 'cold welded' to the column.

Any ideas - totally stuck and need to get this thing out of the garage soon...

[E30BeemerLad]

A good used one is £15, smack that bitch up

[Royalratch]

I used heat but had to stop as the firewall soundproofing / heat shield looks as if it will catch fire. Plus there's no room to actually get hardcore with it. Is it really supposed to just pull off?

I may go back to trying to force the E36 rack on again and to hell with any mismatched splines...

[magpie]

try and get a screw driver in the gap and pry it open.i have had a few stubborn ones and got them off this way.some took a good steep in wd40 over night to help.

[Alex]

Mine was a bastard to change when i fooked mine at santa pod, had funny steering on the way home lol

it took me ages of hitting with a hammer, using screw driver etc, iirc i did it from under the car in the end as it was easier, it actually looks more accessible on a 6 pot

the one fitted to mine came of steves green hartge, has lovely green overspray on it wierdly enought it came off within 10-15 mins and that was in the dark, there was no engine fitted though.

i found changing it on the IS hardest at the bulkhead, just keep trying Ratch, took me a whole afternoon/night

[Royalratch]

I might try the overnight WD40 soak.

There's plenty of room underneath with the subframe off and the car on stands. But not enough room to smack it abaart.
Gotta sort it by Sat AM as I have to get t aligned and new rubber on all wheels.

[E30BeemerLad]

Is your engine out then Rachid?

If so just hold it out with your left hand and smack the centre part with a hammer, wedge a stubby screw driver in the split too

[Royalratch]

No engine is very much in.

TBH, even if I do get it off, I can't see it going back on in a hurry with even less room sine the subframe will be back on.